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Cranks, but doesn't fire

Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 223,762 MILES
Engine will not fire. It ran perfect the day before. Went out the next day and all it did was crank. I have already replaced the distributor, plugs, wires, rotor cap and cover, crank sensor, mass airflow sensor, egr, knock sensor. It's getting fuel but won't fire. If it's completely cold I can get it to stuffer just briefly but after that I get nothing. Changing the position of the gas pedal does nothing as well. I am stumped because I didn't have so much as a backfire from it the day before it stopped starting and it always fired right up without hardly making a full rotation. Am I maybe missing some sort of sensor on the clutch? I did recently get it replaced.
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Monday, March 27th, 2017 AT 4:50 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hello BENJAMIN,

It sounds like you have an ECCS relay that has gone out, here is a wiring diagram so you can find it and a guide to test it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
I have searched diagram after diagram and have been unable to locate this relay on my car. It all says it's suppose to be behind the center console. I have my whole car torn apart and there is nothing behind the console except for the air diverted box. There isn't even any wiring in the area except for the stereo
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I found the location for you its near the ECCS module

Please let me know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Best, Ken
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
This is the same image I've already studied. It not in that location. Unless I have to pull all the air duct out to get to it because it's definitely not within eye sight.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep sometimes the relay is not where they say it is for some reason or you will need to dig deeper. Try to use the wiring colors is the diagram to make sure it is the correct relay once you find it.

Best, Ken
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Finally had the weather to look again. Found that relay tucked away. Odered another one so ill soon find out if it was the issue. I didnt have any continuety between 3 and 5, thats the open and closed side of it.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Well the relay was not the issue
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Im sorry I didn't ask before but does the engine have compression?

Here is a guide to check. You just need to check one cylinder

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken

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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
I don't have a gauge to find out. When I get the funds I'll have a look. The only thing left would be the timing chain though. It's the only thing I haven't looked at besides compression. It's just that the car ran just fine the day I shut it off. So if the chain jumped or broke it would have had to after I turned it off. That just seems unlikely to me
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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That's when it happens though so don't be surprised, does it sounds the same when you crank it over?
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
What happens is I get a very small studder the first time I go out to try and start it. After that it just cranks. I can smell the fuel and hear the pump come on and I've already checked the fuel pressure. I just get the same repetitive sound when the engine cranks. But it does sound like it's off a bit. Before it use to be a constant rhythm before, now it sounds like it's slow and then fast
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, sounds like the timing has jumped. Do the compression test when you can and let me know.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Ok I have a double timing chain on this car. And I might not be a proffesional but I'm not sure that the chances of two sets of teeth jumping is very high.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
And it all looks tight up here
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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It would be the lower chain that had a problem, a compression test would let us know if we were on the right track.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Well I did some more diagnosing and ran some more tests and it turns out my injectors arent getting any power. There isnt any fuse or relay for them so im pretty certain the computer finally went belly up.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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That does happen, here is a wiring diagram so you can check for power and grounds to make sure. Check the ignition switch power outputs as well and the fuses.

Does the ignition have spark?

Please let us know what happens.

Best, Ken
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
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  • 13 POSTS
Yeah I'm getting spark from all 4 plugs.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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That means the computer is getting signal. Try unplugging the injectors one at a time to see if you can get the engine to fire up. If one injector is shorted it will stop the others from working.'
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMIN MENDELL
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Still didnt start from unplugging on injector at a time. It might just be the timing because when the engine is turning it just doesnt sound smooth. Its sounds like its uneven
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:17 PM

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