Crank no start issue?

When I first checked compression the cylinder on passenger side was 120psi and the rest were 125PSI. Engine hasn't run or fired since that test. Plug color was decent on all 4, certainly not fouled and all 4 had spark. There's no reason why any of that would have changed. I think the timing has jumped a tooth. I haven't been able to check the marks yet.

Will do.

I sent a reply but didn't hear back and I didn't see it. Upon examination of the cam gears it would appear the marks are a tooth or 1/2 tooth off. I also don't see any colored links on the chain. My friend was able to reset the cams on a F150 by using a wedge between the two sides of the chain that descended to the crank gear. Is it possible to reset the gears on this CRV without removing the chain? If it runs after reset, I would go ahead and replace the chain and tensioner and whatever other parts are worn. The pictures are the best I could get.

I sent a reply but didn't hear back and I don't see it. Upon examination of the cam gears it would appear the marks are a tooth or 1/2 tooth off. I also don't see any colored links on the chain. My friend was able to reset the cams on a F150 by using a wedge between the two sides of the chain that descended to the crank gear. Is it possible to reset the gears on this CRV without removing the chain. If it runs after reset I would go ahead and replace the chain and tensioner and whatever other parts are worn. The pictures are the best I could get.

If there's a way to do it I'll figure it out, lol. Thanks for your help. All that there's really left to do is support the engine and pull the cover. I'm sure I can handle it. The timing setup is relatively simple, no more difficult than my twin overhead cam KZ1000s. Been there, done that. Aren't there supposed to be three pairs of either gold or black links which go where the timing marks are?

I'm looking at the tensioner and it appears the arm has shifted. Shouldn't the two holes be lined up so you can pin the tensioner for removal and re-installation? Also, unless you see something I don't there are no marks or different colored links on this chain. I want to attempt to pin the tensioner, suspend the chain so it stays on the crank gear, remove the tensioner, adjust timing and reinstall the tensioner. Worst case scenario I have to remove the cover at which point I'll replace the chain, etc.

I wish there was a way to back off the tensioner and then release it. I'm assuming it ratchets or is a spring loaded wedge?

The photos and explanation of the tensioner are very helpful. Thank you. Will the tensioner back off all the way? I was thinking if I removed the balancer/pulley I might be able to see a way to hold the chain in place on the crankshaft gear. What about the colored links on the chain? Do you see something I'm missing? They are only there for reference and ease of installation, correct? As long as all the marks line up and all the slack is to the tensioner side, rear, of the car, any set of 3 links would theoretically work. Am I correct in thinking this? I don't have a lot of faith in what I am attempting to do but I also don't see it as impossible.

Update: included are some photos of the issue. Unfortunately, there are no colored links to make placement on the gears simple. I tried every way I could think of to get the cams in time. There is no way to get a link on the tooth of the crank gear with the dot. No matter what I tried that tooth falls between when all the other marks are lined up. My conclusion is the chain is stretched beyond use. Guides look great, hardly any wear. The tensioner appears to be strongly sprung and locks into place. My other concern is what I am hoping are casting marks and not cracks in the block. What do you think? Lastly the rubber between the two part balancer is pretty shot. It rubs slightly on the back side.

Would you agree that the chain is stretched? When timed the link that goes on the marked tooth of the crankshaft gear is supposed to be one with an outer plate not one that shows the dot.

I was just thinking that the cam marks are actually placed on inner links so then the crank mark would probably end up on an outer one. Either way the cam marks are not directly across from each other, so I think there is some stretch.

I found the elusive colored links and figured out a trick to hold the cams against being sprung so all the marks and links could be set. Turned it over multiple times and it stayed in time. Seemed to get a little off on the crank gear when I overshot TDC and backed it up a tad, like 3 degrees. Really just want to see if it fires. Then I'll put a new chain and tensioner in.I don't want to waste money if it needs head work or worse. When I first checked compression when out of time it was still adequate. When I checked with the valve cover off it was low. Not sure if having the cover off would affect it. I wouldn't think so. I'm also still not sure of my tester even though it's a Matco.