Crank no start issue?

This sounds like you have a clogged cat?

I was hoping you had the magic answer. Lol As you can tell this isn't my first rodeo. Potentially buying this vehicle but want to hear it run 1st. Next up the Noid light and I've made a long extension wire so I can put the light on the dash and watch it. Also need to check other 3 cylinders for spark. Why wouldn't I have gotten fire with carb cleaner right down the cylinder that had spark? Shouldn't it have at least popped?

Spark in all 4, injector pulse to all 4. 120-125 psi all 4. When cranking the plugs don't get wet. Going to check fuel pressure next. Unfortunately no Schrader valve on the rail.

I would check for a plugged exhaust system, crank the engine over and hold your hand over the exhaust outlet to see if air is pumped out. Also, can you upload a short video of the engine cranking over so I can hear it? That would be great.

How could a plugged exhaust keep it from firing? It also has decent, even compression. I wanted to check fuel pressure at the rail today but was unable to tie in a gauge anywhere. The line to the rail only has quick connects. There is fuel under pressure at what I'm assuming is the pressure regulator or monitor, whatever Honda calls it. How can the injectors have steady pulse but not supply fuel? I'm going to connect a gauge to where the regulator goes. See photo. When you crank it, it tries to fire. Fuel pressure will reveal some answers, I think. The green clip is the fuel supply to the rail.

Does it run on starting fluid?

It didn't on carb cleaner. I usually use that or straight gas. Have to try, the vehicle is not at my house. I'm trying to get it running to avoid hauling it.

Okay, let's check for spark, this video should help us:

https://youtu.be/baq_aEWNQ0Y

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

I already determined it has spark from all four coils by grounding the plug itself against a bolt and observing the spark in the plug gap.

Will it run on starting fluid?

Going to try when I get a chance and I will let you know.

Pulled rail and injectors. It's getting good spray. Won't fire on starting fluid into the air intake or cylinder. Crank sensor? No codes.

Hi,

Have you been able to make any progress? I noticed it has been a couple of days since we made contact. Also, above you mentioned it is getting spark but won't fire with starting fluid. If that is the case, either we lost compression, or the timing is off. Is it possible for you to record it cranking and upload it for us to hear? We should be able to tell if it is a timing issue or a compression issue.

If you have spark, the crankshaft position sensor isn't the issue.

Let us know.

Joe

I will try to get a recording. Cold compression was 120,125,125, and 125.

Hi,

New, the compression would have been around 135 psi, so you are not far off. That doesn't sound like an issue. Also, if that is the compression (120-125) chances are the timing is correct or very close.

Let us hear it cranking if possible. Here is the thing. If compression, timing, spark, and fuel are present, the engine has no choice but to run or at least try to. We are missing something simple.

Let me know.

Joe

Here are a couple short cranking videos. The battery is low so it is connected to a second battery. You can hear it try to fire.

Hi,

It sounds off when cranking. You're sure the timing is correct, and the compression is even? I did hear it fire off a couple of times but that's it.

Let me know.

Joe

I suspect it jumped time. I haven't checked it. When I checked compression was even.

Hi,

I attached all the timing mark information below. Remember, this is an interference engine. We don't want it to jump too far.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pics below.

Yep, that engine does not sound good, I would definitely check the compression.

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/the-reasons-for-low-compression

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

When I first checked compression the cylinder on passenger side was 120psi and the rest were 125PSI. Engine hasn't run or fired since that test. Plug color was decent on all 4, certainly not fouled and all 4 had spark. There's no reason why any of that would have changed. I think the timing has jumped a tooth. I haven't been able to check the marks yet.

Hi,

I agree. That shouldn't have changed. I suspect the timing is the issue. If you have a chance, let me know what you find. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe

Will do.

I sent a reply but didn't hear back and I didn't see it. Upon examination of the cam gears it would appear the marks are a tooth or 1/2 tooth off. I also don't see any colored links on the chain. My friend was able to reset the cams on a F150 by using a wedge between the two sides of the chain that descended to the crank gear. Is it possible to reset the gears on this CRV without removing the chain? If it runs after reset, I would go ahead and replace the chain and tensioner and whatever other parts are worn. The pictures are the best I could get.

I sent a reply but didn't hear back and I don't see it. Upon examination of the cam gears it would appear the marks are a tooth or 1/2 tooth off. I also don't see any colored links on the chain. My friend was able to reset the cams on a F150 by using a wedge between the two sides of the chain that descended to the crank gear. Is it possible to reset the gears on this CRV without removing the chain. If it runs after reset I would go ahead and replace the chain and tensioner and whatever other parts are worn. The pictures are the best I could get.

Hi,

I wish I had a better answer, but the only way I could think to do this would be by at least releasing the tensioner. At that point, you may as well take the chain off and reinstall it.

It does appear the timing is off as you said. Because this is an interference engine, make sure you get it back correctly. I don't think one tooth will have hurt anything, but you don't want to allow it to get too far off.

Joe

If there's a way to do it I'll figure it out, lol. Thanks for your help. All that there's really left to do is support the engine and pull the cover. I'm sure I can handle it. The timing setup is relatively simple, no more difficult than my twin overhead cam KZ1000s. Been there, done that. Aren't there supposed to be three pairs of either gold or black links which go where the timing marks are?

Hi,

Yes, the timing chain should be marked. I attached pics a few replies back showing them, but take a look at the pics below as well.

Let me know how things turn out for you or if you have other questions.

Take care,

joe

See pics below.

I'm looking at the tensioner and it appears the arm has shifted. Shouldn't the two holes be lined up so you can pin the tensioner for removal and re-installation? Also, unless you see something I don't there are no marks or different colored links on this chain. I want to attempt to pin the tensioner, suspend the chain so it stays on the crank gear, remove the tensioner, adjust timing and reinstall the tensioner. Worst case scenario I have to remove the cover at which point I'll replace the chain, etc.

I wish there was a way to back off the tensioner and then release it. I'm assuming it ratchets or is a spring loaded wedge?

Hi,

I believe this tensioner is controlled by oil pressure. The two holes need to be aligned to install a retainer pin.

To compress the tensioner so you can install a pin to hold it, you need to turn the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise.

Take a look at the pics below and let me know if they help.

Take care,

joe

See pics below.

The photos and explanation of the tensioner are very helpful. Thank you. Will the tensioner back off all the way? I was thinking if I removed the balancer/pulley I might be able to see a way to hold the chain in place on the crankshaft gear. What about the colored links on the chain? Do you see something I'm missing? They are only there for reference and ease of installation, correct? As long as all the marks line up and all the slack is to the tensioner side, rear, of the car, any set of 3 links would theoretically work. Am I correct in thinking this? I don't have a lot of faith in what I am attempting to do but I also don't see it as impossible.

Hi,

Yes, the colored links are a reference. There are a certain number of links between them. So, if you have the colored links where they belong, the timing is correct. Do the links have to be in position? No, the colored links are used to ensure the correct number of links exists between them.

As far as the tensioner, yes it will back off so you can get a retainer pin in the adjuster.

Please remember this is an interference engine. Once you have the chain back on and where you want it, gently turn the engine several revolutions to make sure there is nothing making contact internally.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care,

Joe

Update: included are some photos of the issue. Unfortunately, there are no colored links to make placement on the gears simple. I tried every way I could think of to get the cams in time. There is no way to get a link on the tooth of the crank gear with the dot. No matter what I tried that tooth falls between when all the other marks are lined up. My conclusion is the chain is stretched beyond use. Guides look great, hardly any wear. The tensioner appears to be strongly sprung and locks into place. My other concern is what I am hoping are casting marks and not cracks in the block. What do you think? Lastly the rubber between the two part balancer is pretty shot. It rubs slightly on the back side.

Hi,

I see what you are talking about regarding the possible crack. That doesn't appear to be a casting mark. If nothing is leaking, leave it alone. It could be tig welded and ground down if needed, but since it doesn't appear to be a problem, I would leave well enough alone.

As far as the timing marks on the cam. They look correct or as close as possible, but I do see a very slight variation. I think you may be better off replacing the chain. That way the new one "should" have the identification links.

With regards to the balancer, I would replace it as well. You don't want to do this job again.

Let me know.

Joe

Would you agree that the chain is stretched? When timed the link that goes on the marked tooth of the crankshaft gear is supposed to be one with an outer plate not one that shows the dot.

I was just thinking that the cam marks are actually placed on inner links so then the crank mark would probably end up on an outer one. Either way the cam marks are not directly across from each other, so I think there is some stretch.

Hi,

There is a good chance that is the issue. As you mentioned, it won't align because the chain is longer (stretched).

Let me know.

Joe

I found the elusive colored links and figured out a trick to hold the cams against being sprung so all the marks and links could be set. Turned it over multiple times and it stayed in time. Seemed to get a little off on the crank gear when I overshot TDC and backed it up a tad, like 3 degrees. Really just want to see if it fires. Then I'll put a new chain and tensioner in.I don't want to waste money if it needs head work or worse. When I first checked compression when out of time it was still adequate. When I checked with the valve cover off it was low. Not sure if having the cover off would affect it. I wouldn't think so. I'm also still not sure of my tester even though it's a Matco.

Hi,

I'm glad you were able to find them. That way you know it is correct. If you have a chance, let me know if it runs or if you have other questions. I'm interested in knowing.

Joe