Crank no start

Well, I think those are just spacers, but you still put the oxygen sensor into the end of it, although I've never tried one of those. Does it say it will keep the Check Engine Light out? And definitely fix any vacuum leaks that you can, you should replace the PCV valve too, The PCV valve in there right now most definitely has carbon build inside. Even if it's not stuck open or closed, with the seriously rich condition that engine has been through, I'd even check the throttle plates for carbon build up. I think there's going to be a lot everywhere.
Since the PCV pulls crankcase pressure into the Intake manifold to be burned, those cracked hoses will pull outside air in and is really a vacuum leak. Most people don't tend to realize that leaks around the valve cover end up being vacuum leak. So, It's good you're doing that gasket. I recently found a vacuum leak from a Brake Booster that was only leaking when the Brake pedal was pushed down. So, these leaks can be sneaky and hard to find. I'm not sure if you have a smoke machine, but I'll use it a lot to find vacuum leaks, very useful tool.

That's the Fuel injection metering unit, correct? Were those lines already pulled out? And what's that yellow thing? Looks like a mess. I see liquid in the injector control pins too, I'm glad you did that, I was super worried about that unit, they fail so much.

Yeah, that looks like water or alcohol. So now we're down to stalling under a load. You replaced the MAF correct? My next thought would be to monitor fuel pressure during the stalling condition, because if the fuel filter was that bad, that fuel pump was definitely being overworked trying to push fuel through that filter. Thats probably also why your initial pulse width was so high, the bad rear oxygen sensor plus a clogged-up fuel filter, the engine was starved for fuel. Also suspect a pump on its way out when you find a filter that bad. And when I do a fuel pump, I do the fuel pump relay too. Since fuel pumps can draw 5 to 9 amps of current. I do both just to cover my bases.
And with that gas you have there, if you put it in a graduated cylinder, or a tube where you can see the liquid, the gas and alcohol will separate, one will float on top of the other. And you can tell by that the percentage of how much alcohol or if its water, is mixed in with the gas in the tank. But it looks like alcohol to me.
I know this isn't a flex fuel vehicle, but there seems to be a certain amount of alcohol in all gas now.
But see if the fuel pressure is dropping off under a load. And what are the Fuel Trims doing during that stall too? If its fuel related, you could graph the oxygen sensors and watch them go lean when the stall occurs. So low voltage signal, like what that rear sensor was at.
Fuel Trims and Oxygen sensor readings are your best friend when watching for a fuel related issue.

You should graph all 3 Oxygen sensors and go for a ride, if you can record the screen capture while driving so you can look at it when you get back but see if the oxygen sensors go lean when you have the load issue. These are just regular narrow band oxygen sensors, so they will read 0 to 1 volt. I think you'll find that when the load drops out occurs the oxygen sensor voltage will go very low, when graphed they will look like the first diagram below. That will tell you if it's a lack of fuel volume causing the load problem. You can have a good pressure reading but if there isn't enough fuel volume to back it up you will have a problem like that. It may also be the cause of the torque request signal. Why it's extremely low. Because that's basically no torque output at all. It's the TCM communicating with the PCM but getting nothing. I'm really surprised there are no codes. Are you in Global OBD2 or are you under the manufacturers side on your scan tool? And can you get to Mode 6 Data?

Yup, I can see that, this truck has many failures, I'm sure the Ignition system was highly over worked considering how many things were going wrong with it. I think the Cat was actually the biggest deal, It was probably one of the major issues from the start, we just didn't know it at first. How are the Fuel Trim numbers looking? Ill bet the engine is breathing much better with the Cat gutted out. It's difficult sometimes because the Converters go bad slowly in most situations and it slowly reduces power over time, but that pulse width at the beginning is something I've never seen before, I didn't even think an ECM would open and Injector so far with setting a ton of codes. Kind of like the Fords, they take forever to set a cylinder misfire code and even then, there are 2 or 3 different levels of misfires. Anyway glad you're up and running again. Have a nice evening.