Crank no start

Hello, it sounds like you should do a fuel pressure test. I've never heard of a fuel injector pulse width being that high before. If that's an actual reading, which may be incorrect data to be honest, that reading almost seems impossible, do you have any Long- or Short-Term Fuel Trim readings on your scan tool? or any temperature sensors reading -40 degrees? Something is seriously off here. I don't see a Fuel Pressure sensor in the wiring diagrams so you're going to have to do a Fuel pressure test with a manual gauge.
I think you're going to find a lack of pressure, possibly a clogged-up fuel filter. Some sensor on the truck is causing the ECM to open the injectors far too much. What kind of scan tool are you using?

This truck has Fuel Metering Body Assembly, these are known for failures, this is not a conventional fuel injector setup, this unit has a built in Pressure Regulator, below is a description of the components and testing. But I still think a Pressure Test is needed here, even though you hear the pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Got my reading through the Schrader valve When I tested Fuel pressure it was a little low. Around 54, if I'm not mistaken it should be between55 and 60. I'm using Autel scan tool. I ordered a fuel filter the other day just soaked in liquid wrench and will replace that tomorrow. I'm going to attach some screenshots from the scanner for you. Thank you for helping me out.

The fuel pressure spec is 55-62 so its within spec, but I think there is an issue with the fuel injection system. Because all of your Long Term and Short-Term Fuel trim data is all reading zero, there is no reason for the Injector pulse to be so high, I think you should take out a few spark plugs and see if they are wet with fuel, if they are not, make sure you have Spark from the plugs. If the Spark plugs are wet with fuel, try holding the gas pedal to the floor, that will put the vehicle into clear flood mode and it might start, there isn't much data to go on there, but that Air/Fuel Ratio of 5:1 is incorrect. It should be around 14:1, so there is something going on with that Fuel Metering system, they are known for a lot of problems. The fact that there's no codes is very odd too. If the spark plugs come out soaked in fuel, then the fuel injection system is stuck open. 54ms is an unheard-of amount of on time for a fuel injector. Average Fuel Injector on time is around 2-3ms.
Did the fuel pressure stay up around 55psi or did it drop off? If your fuel pressure stayed where it should, checking the Fuel Injection Metering unit would be next.
Also is that data during cranking or just Key On data? Just looking at the MAP sensor voltage reading of almost 5 volts looks like the only key on reading. Engine cranking would create vacuum in the Intake manifold and the MAP sensor voltage would be lower.
I'm going to add the entire fuel system diagnostic process, but I think you're going to find the Injector Metering Unit might need to be replaced.

I screenshot a little more for you. after replacing MAF it started. But now I get long crank time. Runs rough and stalls. It was key on I believe. These are running let me know what readings you would like to see. Tomorrow I'm going to try to get them all.

Thanks for the live data PIDs, some things I notice look ok and some don't.
First since you have an Autel, on the 1st page below, can you Graph these two oxygen sensors Bank 1 Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1. Those are going to be the two sensors that the ECM should be monitoring most and will give us the best idea how fuel control is doing. Your Fuel Injector pulse is not 54ms anymore, but still 5.6ms is over twice as much as it really should be. For whatever reason these Injector Pulse width numbers are very high. If the Oxygen sensors are responding slow and/or hanging lean (lower voltage reading below 0.450mv) that can cause the Pulse width to increase because the ECM is trying to add fuel to the air/fuel mixture due to the lean condition it could be reading from bad Oxygen sensor signals. (Second page below). If you can Graph those Oxygen sensors, we can see if they are hanging rich or lean. Just seeing one voltage reading doesn't tell much.
on the third page, the Grams per second at idle of 4.7g/s is okay. A rule of thumb with MAF sensors is, you have a 4.3liter engine, so 4.7g/s is close to the engine size. It changes somewhat when you get to larger V8 or V10 engines. But that's pretty close. But you also have misfire counts on cylinder number 1. I know the vehicle is not running great yet, but it's getting better. And if these Fuel trim numbers are correct, they look great, so I'm not exactly sure what's going on. I'm hoping that the high injector pulse width, whatever is causing that, didn't cause the Catalytic Converter to melt down and clog up the exhaust.
I just know that these Fuel metering setups have a very high failure rate. And I'm not sure why you aren't getting any codes, there are misfires in the history. I'd expect some codes for that, also for the huge 54ms pulse width.

Okay, I got every page aside from the advanced evap. I really appreciate your help. Today I
ran through the clear flood mode like you said. I also purged the injectors.

You weren't able to Graph the Oxygen sensors voltage PIDs? Are any of them staying low, for example I see Bank 1 Sensor 1 34mv, 134mv, is it staying that low? Both front Oxygen sensors (Bank 1 Sensor 1) and (Bank 2 Sensor 1) should be cycling from 0.200 to 0.800mv roughly. I'm having a hard time pulling up some of these pages because there's so many, but I do see Misfire Counter Status (Invalid), but 12 Cycles of misfire data. Also, no cylinders are counting misfires.
How is this thing running, is it drivable? A couple other things that look odd, Injector pulse is still high, I know this looks like a cold start up too, so it would be a little high due to that, but the pulse width should come down. The Oil Pressure sensor voltage is reading 0 volts, and the Spark advance looks normal at 18 degrees, but the camshaft position is retarded at -4 degrees.
If this thing isn't running well, and there are no codes present, which I would think something would have shown up, there's data that doesn't look right.
What kind of Autel do you have? Does it only scan the engine ECM?
I was just mentioning the Clear Flood mode because it can help you to hear the engines cranking cadence. For example, if you had a cylinder that was low on compression you would hear an uneven sound while cranking the engine and it not being started. When I do a relative compression test with my oscilloscope, I want to get a basic compression reading of all cylinders without the fuel injectors firing. So, I would do a clear flood cranking or disable the fuel injectors another way to prevent cylinder wash. Thats why I brought that up, you can hear a cylinder low on compression by doing a clear flood cranking. It will be that uneven type of sound of the crankshaft slowing and speeding up at different rates. Do a YouTube search of a Relative Compression Test.

The oil pressure sensor is broken. I haven't got around to replacing it. I did have a P0335 crank position sensor code come up before and no, I can get scans on everything not just ECU it will scan PCM, BCM, TCM, even the seats, lol. I didn't notice you asked for a graph I'll get that for you ASAP... I really appreciate your help.

Graphs.

I noticed every time I check live Data evap is always venting.

It will Purge the evap if there's pressure in the gas tank and at idle, being that its summer that will cause higher pressure in the gas tank. But that Bank 1 Sensor 2 Oxygen sensor signal looks stuck at 52mv. I would expect it to be higher 0.600mv-0.700mv range. The ECM is probably compensating for that sensor reading, that might be why your pulse width is so high right there. The ECM is going to take that reading for a somewhat lean exhaust. So, either that sensor is not working, or there is an exhaust leak just before it and its reading oxygen coming in from that. But it looks like a dead sensor to me. I can see by the 1-amp heater circuit reading, that the heater is not the cause of its low voltage, I'm actually surprised it didn't set a code for that. Unless the Catalytic Converter is clogged up and that's why that sensor is not reading anything. Doing a back pressure test at one of the front Oxygen sensor locations will tell you if there's a failed Cat. At idle you shouldn't have anything over 1 to 1.5PSI back pressure. Anything higher than that and I would inspect the Cats Substrate. Being that you had that weird super high pulse width, which might have ruined the Cat. You might want to unbolt the front and just inspect it there to begin with. You'll be able to tell if the honeycomb front section is melted down. Might be your whole running issue right now. Bad MAF leads to a bad CAT, now it won't run.
A bad Cat was one of my first worries seeing those injector numbers.

The exhaust did have a home in it before the cat for a while I just repaired it last week. It finally through a PO300 code. It runs okay until it warms up then it starts misfiring. I'll order should I get the O2 sensor.

Are you able to unbolt the front of the Converter to get a look at it? I wouldn't want you to replace that rear 02 just to find out it's a clogged Converter. Or you can try the pressure test by removing one of the front oxygen sensors. Most regular vacuum gauges are able to read positive pressure up to about 10psi. A clogged Converter can cause all kinds of issues, since exhaust can't get out, the engine has trouble taking air in, and you'll have a reading like that on the rear oxygen sensor plus misfiring cylinders. Any rich running condition is usually how Converter failures happen.
With a rich running condition, it would run good cold then at warm up it would start misfiring because it takes more fuel to run a cold engine, as it warms up it requires less. And the over 5ms injector pulse width is twice as high as I would expect. With the no start condition you had to begin with, I'm not sure how many times it was attempted to start, but every time it was cranked over, there was fuel being dumped down the exhaust. I know it's a pain to check the Converter but knowing that it's okay is worth it. If that rear oxygen sensor has failed and is giving the ECM incorrect voltage reading and the ECM was over fueling because of it, another reason Converters fail. It didn't look like there was any activity on that graphed view, unless you saw something I didn't.

I'm going to try to get a look into the cat. in mean time I replaced the02 sensor also replaced the MAP sensor because I had a new one in my box. It's running. Alot better. But I think we might have a vacuum leak now as well..

Now that oxygen sensor looks active, that other sensor was completely stuck low. But if you had a vacuum leak, you would notice high positive fuel trim numbers at idle, and they would improve at higher rpm. So, if you look at that Bank 2 Sensor 1 signal and the Bank 1 Sensor2(downstream 02), see how those signals almost mirror each other. That's what I would expect to see from a failing Cat. I know it's not good and definitely not what you would want to hear, but that's why I would check it. The high pulse width means there was over fueling going on. Sometimes it can clear up the Cat if it can get hot enough and/or still have the ability to store oxygen. As for checking the converters condition, doing a back pressure test at one of the front oxygen sensors locations is much easier than unbolting the converter. You just need a vacuum gauge that will measure a little over zero psi. Or sometimes if one of the front oxygen sensors is close enough to the front of the converter, I'll take it out and inspect the converter with a borescope. I will actually do that to show a customer the condition of the converter by taking pictures with the borescope, so I have a record of it as well.
What makes you think there's a vacuum leak?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

I'm going to get up in the cat tonight if I find it is clogged. Do you think it would be okay if I gutted it until I can replace it? I appreciate you sticking with me through this.

It depends on the emissions inspection in your state. When is it due for emissions inspection next? If you're good for a year or whatever the time is, yeah, you can gut it out. It might set a p0420 for low cat efficiency or oxygen sensor code, so the check engine light might be on. But it won't hurt the engine at all. We need to get inspection and registration done here every year. I just would not feel good if you replaced more parts just to find the Cat was completely melted down. That was my first worry when I saw those huge pulse width numbers. It was that rear oxygen sensor causing that being stuck low voltage. Sending the ECM into a rich command.

Here we get it every two years and I just had it done only ever going to have to get inspected one more time because then it hits that 25-year Mmark and never have to worry about again. So, I pulled the cat down. I shined a 500 lumen flashlight in the morning and I could barely see it coming through and that was in a dark room.

So, the Cat totally melted down and clogged up the exhaust? If so, you'll notice a huge difference is performance after it is cleared out. If it broke up there might be parts of it through the rest of the exhaust. Possibly in the muffler baffles too.

Hello, just one thing I wanted to mention, I was thinking about this last night, and its probably not a big deal at all. But with the Cat gutted out, since there is not going to be any Hydrocarbon reduction due to the missing Cat, and since we have seen that the rear oxygen sensor on this vehicle obviously has a bigger role in fuel strategy than one might think. The rear Oxygen sensor may read a richer signal because the Cat is not helping. So the ecm may lean the mixture somewhat, but I dont think it will be alot because the front oxygen sensors will play an even bigger role in air/fuel ratio. But watch the Fuel Trim numbers, especially the Long Term fuel trim. Those numbers are going to tell you how much the ecm is either adding fuel (positive fuel trim) or taking fuel away (negative fuel trim). So just keep and eye on those with your scan tool in Live Data. If you notice any of them going over %10 +/-, that would be too much. I dont think it will go nearly that far considering the Fuel trim numbers I have seen on your scan data. Just something to be aware of, you dont want the ecm to lean the mixture out too much. These systems are designed all around emissions, and thats why they react the way they do.
Also let me know how it runs, Im curious after all this time, we got things straightened out.. Thanks

Al

In the pic I'm attaching I was thinking about throwing one of them over the rear 02 sensor. what do you think? Also, I'm waiting on PCV valve cover and hose. Because both were cracked and I'll put the front up on ramps to try to clear the whole exhaust out.

Well, I think those are just spacers, but you still put the oxygen sensor into the end of it, although I've never tried one of those. Does it say it will keep the Check Engine Light out? And definitely fix any vacuum leaks that you can, you should replace the PCV valve too, The PCV valve in there right now most definitely has carbon build inside. Even if it's not stuck open or closed, with the seriously rich condition that engine has been through, I'd even check the throttle plates for carbon build up. I think there's going to be a lot everywhere.
Since the PCV pulls crankcase pressure into the Intake manifold to be burned, those cracked hoses will pull outside air in and is really a vacuum leak. Most people don't tend to realize that leaks around the valve cover end up being vacuum leak. So, It's good you're doing that gasket. I recently found a vacuum leak from a Brake Booster that was only leaking when the Brake pedal was pushed down. So, these leaks can be sneaky and hard to find. I'm not sure if you have a smoke machine, but I'll use it a lot to find vacuum leaks, very useful tool.

I already put it in a new throttle body and cleaned and polished it before I did. I checked this out I had to take off the plenum because the MAP sensor tip broke off and fell in. Look what I found in the pic attached.

That's the Fuel injection metering unit, correct? Were those lines already pulled out? And what's that yellow thing? Looks like a mess. I see liquid in the injector control pins too, I'm glad you did that, I was super worried about that unit, they fail so much.

No, I pulled them out. had to remove the upper intake. Because tip. Of map broke off and fell in. The other thing is paint chips I cleaned up I cleaned everything up really well inside but look at the orange gasket I think that was causing a vacuum leak. Finally replacing the fuel filter with the new one I could easily blow through but the old one hurt my cheeks trying. I think there was either bacteria living in the fuel or there was water in the gas I'm attaching a pic. It's running a lot better starts up runs fine but stalls under load.

Yeah, that looks like water or alcohol. So now we're down to stalling under a load. You replaced the MAF correct? My next thought would be to monitor fuel pressure during the stalling condition, because if the fuel filter was that bad, that fuel pump was definitely being overworked trying to push fuel through that filter. Thats probably also why your initial pulse width was so high, the bad rear oxygen sensor plus a clogged-up fuel filter, the engine was starved for fuel. Also suspect a pump on its way out when you find a filter that bad. And when I do a fuel pump, I do the fuel pump relay too. Since fuel pumps can draw 5 to 9 amps of current. I do both just to cover my bases.
And with that gas you have there, if you put it in a graduated cylinder, or a tube where you can see the liquid, the gas and alcohol will separate, one will float on top of the other. And you can tell by that the percentage of how much alcohol or if its water, is mixed in with the gas in the tank. But it looks like alcohol to me.
I know this isn't a flex fuel vehicle, but there seems to be a certain amount of alcohol in all gas now.
But see if the fuel pressure is dropping off under a load. And what are the Fuel Trims doing during that stall too? If its fuel related, you could graph the oxygen sensors and watch them go lean when the stall occurs. So low voltage signal, like what that rear sensor was at.
Fuel Trims and Oxygen sensor readings are your best friend when watching for a fuel related issue.

Yes, I replaced the MAF. I finally had access to the pressure test yesterday. It was reading 60 at a cold start. But after running a good while it dropped to around 53. Not sure how good a tester it was. also, found torque delivered signal was off. Included two pictures.

You should graph all 3 Oxygen sensors and go for a ride, if you can record the screen capture while driving so you can look at it when you get back but see if the oxygen sensors go lean when you have the load issue. These are just regular narrow band oxygen sensors, so they will read 0 to 1 volt. I think you'll find that when the load drops out occurs the oxygen sensor voltage will go very low, when graphed they will look like the first diagram below. That will tell you if it's a lack of fuel volume causing the load problem. You can have a good pressure reading but if there isn't enough fuel volume to back it up you will have a problem like that. It may also be the cause of the torque request signal. Why it's extremely low. Because that's basically no torque output at all. It's the TCM communicating with the PCM but getting nothing. I'm really surprised there are no codes. Are you in Global OBD2 or are you under the manufacturers side on your scan tool? And can you get to Mode 6 Data?

Got her running like a top.. I think we had a multi fail scenario. Couldn't have done it without you I appreciate your help so much. The final nail in the coffin that I found when I popped off the distributor cap I don't know if you can see the pin hole in the tab.. it wasn't there originally if it was it was very small because I took it all apart and cleaned it and didn't see it till this time pulling it apart.

Yup, i can see that, this truck has many failures, I'm sure the Ignition system was highly over worked considering how many things were going wrong with it. I think the Cat was actually the biggest deal, It was probably one of the major issues from the start, we just didn't know it at first. How are the Fuel Trim numbers looking? Ill bet the engine is breathing much better with the Cat gutted out. It's difficult sometimes because the Converters go bad slowly in most situations and it slowly reduces power over time, but that pulse width at the beginning is something I've never seen before, I didn't even think an ECM would open and Injector so far with setting a ton of codes. Kind of like the Fords, they take forever to set a cylinder misfire code and even then, there are 2 or 3 different levels of misfires. Anyway glad you're up and running again.. Have a nice evening..