Cranks but will not start?

No, not yet. I will have to purchase a pressure tester and go from there. I am getting spark and checked injectors for pulse with a noid light good there.

My 96 ford ranger has stopped starting. I replaced the #23 fuse while the truck was running and upon doing so the truck quit running. I have checked all the other fuses. Did notice that I am no longer getting fire from my plugs. The timing belt looks fine and have also replaced the coils. Will turn over but wont start. Really appreciate any help. Cant really afford to take it in.

Electrical problem 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 300000 miles

I started my truck, drove it about 200 yards and it quit, like someone turned off the ignition switch.
No indication of trouble beforehand. It cranks, but will not fire up. The fuel pump runs for a few seconds when the key is turned and there is pressure at the fuel injector rail valve.
I even dropped the fuel tank and removed the fuel pump/sender. The fuel pump ran fine with 12 volts applied to it.
I put an inductive timing light on some of the plug wires and get an intermittent spark on most plug wires. It sometimes gives a single, muffled backfire when cranking, but won't fire.
About a year ago, it ran very poorly after warming up so I put in in the shop. The Ford dealership replaced an ignition block and it has run flawlessly up until now.

I went to the local AutoZone and rented a fuel pressure test kit, $149.95 deposit, plus tax, BUT, I get it back when I return it. NO RENTAL FEE!
Anyway, I connected it to the schrader valve on the injector rail. It went up to 40 lbs pressure when I cranked the key. It's getting, and holding fuel pressure, but still won't fire up!
Since one coil pack is only about a year old, I think it highly unlikely that both coil packs are bad, causing no spark.
Could the crankshaft position sensor be the culprit, since it was running perfectly, then just quit?
Only thing is, on my 96 Ranger, 2.3 four cylinder, I have to remove the air cleaner assy, the alternator belt, alternator, THEN drain my coolant and remove water hoses JUST TO GET TO THE THING!
Is there anything I can do before I go through all of that?
I'd sure hate to go through that process, remove and replace it, and it isn't the problem.
I guess what I'm trying to ask is what are the chances of this being the problem part?

Thanks for responding!
I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor, no progress there(very difficult and troublesome to get to and replace.
I even rented a diagnostic code reader, brand-new. I hooked it up and it said - "PASS, No codes present".
Since I know the coil blocks are good, could it be the cam position sensor (CPS)? There aren't any other components left in the electronic ignition system to check, are there?
BTW, what is the ICM?

I have a new cam position sensor, but can't find it on the engine to replace it (96, 2.3L).
Also, where is the ICM located? I can have it checked.

Thank you for the pics, now I know what it looks like. I have searched my truck for 2 days and cannot find this ICM module. Is there anyone out there who knows where this module is located? I called the local Ford dealer today and all they told me was that it was in the inner right fender. IT'S NOT THERE!

THANKS!
Well you know my next question is - Where is that? Is it under the dash?
I'll bet that's expensive!
I'm not about to tear down half the engine to replace the cam position sensor and everything else is good. I just checked the coil blocks with an ohm meter, primary and secondary seem fine.

One time it will fire up like normal but if you shut it off it won’t crank back up until it sits a while. Also, when it’s running it occasionally has a small but quick dip in rpm's.

I tried switching the relays and it didn’t work. I was told by someone else that the camshaft synchronizer could also cause that but I don’t know. Any help would be great.