Clutch pedal on floor

Hi,

Was the fluid low? I ask because there was a technical service bulletin (TSB) related to a pedal being hard to push. It was being caused by premature wear of the slave cylinder resulting from an internal leak. Also, has the clutch master cylinder ever been replaced and have you confirmed that the push rod between the brake pedal and clutch MC is restricted in any way? When you replaced the slave cylinder, was it external or internal?

Let me know.

Joe

When you look at the transmission, do you see the slave cylinder? I ask because there are two different possibilities. One is an external and one internal.

If I had to guess, it is going to be the internal one and something has come apart on the concentric slave causing the issue. I hope, for your sake, it's external. Otherwise, the trans needs to come out.

Let me know.
Joe

Hi,

It's internal. If you have a helper press hard on the clutch, do you see any movement at the slave? I see a lot of rust on things in the pic. I'm wondering if it is frozen.

As far as repairs, if the slave needs replaced, it shouldn't be too bad. I have attached a pic. It indicates dealer price on parts and labor hours to perform the repair. You would have to multiply the hours by the hourly labor rate.

If you want to try something, do this. Basically you are going to bleed the system at the slave. If the slave is the problem, the pedal should move easily when the bleeder is opened at the slave. The bleeder for the slave cylinder body is next to the inlet line.

Here are directions for bleeding the slave:
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Clutch Hydraulic System Bleeding, Concentric Cylinder Clutch Slave

1. If bleeding a dry replacement clutch master cylinder, refer to Bench Bleed Procedure, Clutch Master Cylinder. See: Clutch Master Cylinder > Procedures
2. Disconnect the coupling at the transmission with Coupling Disconnect Tool T88T-70522-A or equivalent by sliding the white plastic sleeve toward the clutch slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on the clutch tube.

CAUTION: Make sure hydraulic tube connection is free of contamination prior to disconnecting it.

3. Remove cap and diaphragm and fill reservoir to the step with High Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 fluid meeting Ford specification ESA-M6C25-A.

CAUTION:
- Clean dirt and grease from around the reservoir cap.
- Brake fluid must be certified to DOT 3 specification.

4. Apply 10-15 pounds of pressure to clutch pedal.
5. Using a small screwdriver, press the internal mechanism of the male coupling to open the valve. While continuing to hold the valve open, slowly depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold.
6. Remove the screwdriver from the coupling, closing the valve.
7. Release the clutch pedal.
8. Refill reservoir to level at step.

CAUTION: The reservoir must be kept full at all times to make sure there will be no additional introduction of air into the system.

9. Repeat Steps 4 through 7.
10. Close reservoir. Reconnect the coupling to the clutch slave cylinder. Check that the connection is secure by applying a slight tug to the clutch tube.
11. Stroke the clutch pedal as rapidly as possible for five to ten strokes.
12. Wait one to three minutes.
13. Repeat Steps 11 and 12 three more times.
14. Loosen bleed screw (located in the slave cylinder body next to the inlet connection).
15. Depress and hold clutch pedal while tightening bleed screw 3-5 Nm (27-44 inch lbs.).
16. Refill the reservoir to level at step.
17. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should properly release the clutch.

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Hope this helps.

Joe