2004 Chrysler Sebring P0301 code

Tiny
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I was thinking about getting both the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft sensor? What is the tooth?
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Sunday, April 26th, 2009 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
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Before I actually look up a picture for you, what size engine and body style, coupe or sedan?
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Sunday, April 26th, 2009 AT 11:22 AM
Tiny
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I have a 2004 Chrysler Sebring sedan (not convertable), engine size V-6, 2.7
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Sunday, April 26th, 2009 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
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I show two locations for the crank sensor, on sedan it's on the left front side of the engine, on convert, it's on top right tranny bell housing. Cam sensor is on front of the cylinder head. The gear is the timing gear, not usually the problem, can be a problem if the magnetic ring gear is on the harmonic balance.
More research shows a higher probability it's the cam sensor or the target magnet that may have a chipped tooth. I will send the info to you. Check the email! Target magnet may have been damaged!
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Monday, April 27th, 2009 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
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Changed the crank sensor yesterday, cleared code yesterday, same code came back on this morning.

Should I even bother changing the cam sensor?

I noticed for the past 4-5 days my car starts a little strange (only in the morning though, the first start of the day), like it takes longer to start. I figured it was because of the fuel cleaner the Chrysler guy put in, but that gas ran out 2 days ago and I refueled with a new full tank of gas, still does it a little not as bad though. Does this help any with figuring the problem out at all?

I'll go read the email Merlin sent, thanks Merlin.
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Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
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Hmm. Maybe I should get the cam sensor then.
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Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 10:26 AM
Tiny
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Checked target magnet, it looks fine.
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Tuesday, April 28th, 2009 AT 12:25 PM
Tiny
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Hi guys! Sorry its been a couple months without posting. I wanted to give you guys an update. Apparently the first guy that checked my compression on my car did not do it correctly. I took it to a different mechanic and this is what he found,

"Performed diagnostic tests & advise baseline test failed for MIL light and codes: P0301-cylinder #1 misfire, P0300-random cylinder misfire tech found that the vehicle had low compression in cylinder #1 at 120 PSI. #2-#6 cylinders are 180 PSI. Cylinder #1 is more then 25% below highest cylinders. Wet test of #1 is 170 PSI. #1 cylinder has bad piston rings."

Well it looks like I need new engine. What a pieace of crap this 2.7, V-6 Chrysler engine is. It started having problems at only 69,000 miles and their 7 year 70,000 mile powertrain warranty is void for me because the first owner was a rental car company. I got the car at only 25,000 so the rental car company didn't even have it that long, how could they do so much damange to the engine? I took really good care of it once it was in my hands, I changed the oil religiously at 3,000 miles and took care of all its regular maitenance.

So anyone who reads this PLEASE do not get a Chrylser with a 2.7, V-6 engine they are the crappiest engine in the Chrysler line. Heck, I wouldn't even reccomend getting a Chrysler period. Especially since they cannot stand behind their engines.
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Tuesday, June 8th, 2010 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
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I'm not a Chrysler fan either.
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Saturday, June 12th, 2010 AT 8:55 AM
Tiny
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Wow. I just discovered these postings. I am having the same exact problem with my Chrysler 2004 Sebring. Same cylinder too. I have way more miles than yours, though. 123,000 miles on it. Same engine except mine is a convertable. I also changed the spark plugs and changed the fuel injector.I will never ever buy a Chrysler again. In fact this is my first American made car as well. I was told I need a valve job on it. I am also not having any symptoms. This engine has overheated on me twice, both times for different reasons. The battery has died on it, I have an oil leak and to top if off, the fuel gauge is broken so I have to reset the trip meter every time I fill up with gas or the car dies. Wish there was a way to boycott Chrysler to get them to fix these engines for free. What a waste of $10,000 I paid for this lemon back in 2008. It is a cute car though. The shell of it anyway. It is the brains of it that are horrible. I may just live with the problem and get to pass emissions somehow. Or put a refurbished engine in it. Whatever I can do that is the cheapest option is what I'll do. Sorry you have had to go through this trouble with your Sebring and good luck to you. Good luck in selling it, too. Who will buy a car like that?
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Thursday, January 20th, 2011 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
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This is why Chrlser needed a bailout and Ford didn't!
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Friday, January 21st, 2011 AT 8:09 AM
Tiny
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I went on the internet yesterday and found there is a class action lawsuit against Chrysler that has been going on since 2007. It is for people who bought cars with the 2.7 V6 engines and had them die on them at early mileage due to sludge build up in the engine. Now, I don't have that problem, yet anyway. Mine is just the cylinder #1 misfire but after reading about how this particular engine has had so many problems I would recommend to anyone in this situation to buy another car! Even if you decide to replace the entire engine, you will need to put another 2.7 V6 in it as that is the only compatable engine for the Sebring. I will buy a japanese car next time like a Subaru or Honda. The Sebring is cute, but a joke of an engine and waste of money. It is really too bad for all the folks who bought one and had so many thing go wrong with it. The problem I have described here is just the tip of the ice berg with my engine. I have an oil leak, the gas gauge is broken, the car has overheated twice for different reasons both times, and then I had a situation where the car would not start and I had to keep replacing a 20amp fuse under the hood about every month or so to get it to start up again. I think the engine is haunted, frankly.
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Friday, January 21st, 2011 AT 3:59 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for your replies, I did infact end up chaning the whole engine, not just replacing the bottom half that was making the code appear, by replacing/rebuilding just the bottom part would of just caused more problems because the bottom would of been new and the top part of the engine (head) would of been old, so the old probably would not of been able to keep up with the new half, especially with this VERY fragile 2.7, V-6 Chrysler engine. Anyhow, changed it last year and its been running good, well its always been running good just had that PO301 code popping up all the time (couldn't pass smog because of it). I do want to sell this car because I hear the problem can come back and its such a sensitive engine, you have to change the oil right on or before the 3,000/3 month cycle, I hate it. I do have some leaks now since the engine has been changed and my mechanic is good because he will fix it and not charge me, so thats a plus. I just hate having to keep dropping my car off for a few days at a time.

Also, I believe there is something else wrong with the car now, the code PO300 code comes on, then after clearing it a month later it came back on with the code P0303, sounds like the same thing again except it doesn't come on as frequent as it did with the PO301 code did and its a different cylindar, ugg, I cleared it and it hasn't been back for 2 months but once it does come back on (because I'm sure it will) I'm not going to clear it and take it back to my mechanic. I'm lucky I have a good mechanic he does not charge to check it out and if its something in the engine he will fix it for a very reasonable price or nothing at all becaus they are the ones who put the new engine in it. I'm thinking it maybe be time to change the spark plugs andyhow, hope this helps someone who thinks about getting a "cute" car, you'd better make sure that "cute" car has a good engine!
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Friday, January 21st, 2011 AT 4:20 PM
Tiny
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Wholly criminola, Lydiaa. You have been through hell and back with this car. If it is paid off, like mine is, you might just buy another used car after researching the best and most reliable car to get (as I am going to do) and then just use the Sebring as an extra car.
So you couldn't pass emissions because of the code P0301? I'll be in the same situation then. My registration isn't due for 6 months but I think it would be too early to get it down now. My check engine light happens to be off right now so I thought about running down to the emissions place and get it done while I can. But if the check engine light comes back on I won't be able to pass I guess. Who wants to pay thousands of dollars to get the light off just to pass an emission test? I think there is something you can buy at an auto parts store to put in the engine that will make it pass.
How much did you have to pay to change out your engine if you don't mind my asking. And was it a refurbished engine or brand new?
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Friday, January 21st, 2011 AT 5:55 PM
Tiny
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I wish I could just go get another car, but currently I'm unemployed so that wouldn't be a smart decsion on my part, once I get a job I'm definatly getting a different car, for now I'm stuck with this one, hopfully I can find a job soon, good luck with that in this economy though, right.

I paid $2,753 total for the engine, $350 was the core charge so I got that back when they got my old engine and $103 was their service charge, no tax. My mechanic charged me $700 to put it in, so I paid a little over $3,000 for the engine and labor. The engine did come with a 3 year/100,000 mile warranty parts/labor. It was a remanufactured engine.
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Friday, January 21st, 2011 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
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Okay, thanks. That at least gives me an idea of cost. And I like the fact you have a warranty for 100,000 ;miles. Will that be covered if one of the cylinders starts misfiring again?
Yah, I am employed but have been working as a temp for 2 years with no chance of being hired full time. Hope you get a job soon!
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Friday, January 21st, 2011 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
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You might also use SYTHETIC oil, not synthetic blend but full synthetic, it does not slugde like regular oil does.
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Monday, January 24th, 2011 AT 11:04 PM
Tiny
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Guess what??? my lights back on but saying different cylindars now, here is my new thread I posted

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2004-chrysler-sebring-p0305-misfire
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Sunday, January 30th, 2011 AT 9:02 PM
Tiny
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Hi lydiaa. I feel your frustration, and I'm sorry I don't have an answer for you, but I feel so strongly about some of the comments I read, I just had to reply. I don't feel it's appropriate to hog your new thread to air my opinions, so I added them here. Please keep in mind I'm biased toward Chrysler because they are the only company that will still allow me to buy their radio service manuals. I also worked for one of four dealerships that is owned by a real nice family since the 1940s, and I often overheard how concerned they were for their customers when they thought no one was listening.

I have a different take on the bailout issue. Ford will not warranty a leak unless it causes a puddle on the ground. Chrysler will warranty any leak. Ford requires extensive testing including an oil analysis before they will even discuss the possibility of warrantying an engine. Chrysler is satisfied with the mechanic's analysis. Chrysler is much more customer-focused than most other manufacturers except Toyota and Hyundai.

Here's a different plan that you might give some thought to. Chrysler has a district representative who visits every dealership once per month. You can request a meeting with that person. At the dealership I worked for, the sales people were the customer's advocate and both sides worked together to find a solution. That rep has the authority to warranty stuff the dealer can't. The dealer can only follow the rules of the franchise. My district rep. Even offered to warranty the sulfated battery in my ten-year-old Dynasty that hadn't been driven in the last nine years!

Rental car companies take especially good care of their cars, but they buy them at real huge discounts with a lesser warranty because they rarely keep them for more than 15,000 miles. You are also able to buy that almost new car for much less than normal but since the warranty transfers to the new owner, you get that same shorter warranty. Since any warranty has value, you can buy that car at a lower price than any regular trade-in with 15,000 miles. So the issue is not that they don't stand by their products. You will get the same shorter warranty with a Ford or GM product. Admittedly, you have the worst engine they've ever built, but as you said, it's running fine with no symptoms. Put the blame for the Check Engine light where it belongs; our elected idiots who make laws with no regard for the unintended consequences. They demanded highly sensitive systems since 1996 that detect the slightest little hiccup. You have wasted more gas and caused more pollution by running all over trying to fix that glitch than the teaspoon of gas that was lost due to any misfire.

The silly cash-for-clunkers law is another example of how stupid the people are in Washington. First of all, anyone who took advantage of that took a huge hit in the wallet because they only got a fraction of the dollars their old car was worth. They would have done better by just trading it in. Imagine their surprise when they found out at the end of the year that the dollars they got from you and me, the taxpayers, was considered income and they were taxed on it. Got'cha! One of the reasons GM was hurting so badly is they can only rip their customers off so many times before they don't HAVE any more customers, and that's what was happening. They had such a huge backlog of unsold cars and trucks and no way to get rid of them. Everyone knows that the highest pressure salespeople will be found at GM dealerships. If they don't move product, they're out of a job. Once you do buy a GM car, you find out that many dealerships have a one-hour minimum labor charge. In the case of my neighbor, that means being charged 0.8 hours to replace a head light bulb under warranty because GM only reimburses the dealer 0.2 hours for that job. Got'cha! How would you like to pay $82.00 to have a $10.00 light bulb put in for free? I've never heard of this one-hour minimum at any other dealership. Performing warranty work is when you're supposed to build customer confidence and loyalty, not bleed them for a few extra bucks. I had a boss once in the tv repair field who had the same attitude. "I have to rip them off as much as possible the first time because they aren't coming back a second time". Thank goodness he's out of business now. There's only about 100,000 people in my extended community and he ran out of customers too, just like GM did. I also worked for 30 years for a different boss who made a comfortable living for three people repairing tvs in a community of only 2,000 people. He did that by being honest and helpful toward his customers. People like him never make the news.

Many current owners don't realize how many computers are on new cars. Customers demand all kinds of junk that has nothing to do with getting you from one point to another. It isn't really necessary for her to be two degrees warmer than him, after all, it's winter. Expect to be cold. Dual zone heaters means a very unreliable, complicated computer is involved in blowing heated air into the car. I can do that pretty well with a slide lever and push buttons in my '88 model. Some drivers are too stupid to poke a power lock button, so a Body Computer is needed to do it for them at 15 mph. All of these toys add to the complexity of the car and the cost of repair. Imagine being handed an $800.00 estimate to fix the dead horn on your Ford? My van uses a switch to turn on a ten-dollar relay to blow the horn. Ford uses a switch to send a coded signal to the most complicated computer on the car, the instrument cluster. The cluster interprets that signal and sends another coded signal to the FEM, (front electronic module) which interprets that signal, then turns on the horn relay. Two computers involved in honking the horn! Explain how that benefits the owner?

GM got mad that I was repairing a half dozen of their radios each year. To prevent me from putting their repair centers out of business, starting with 2002 models they build the Body Computer into the radio. You can not replace it with an aftermarket radio. If you do, you won't have power windows or cruise control. You MUST have the original radio removed by the dealer ($), shipped by the dealer ($), repaired by the authorized repair center, ($$$$$), reinstalled by the dealer, ($), and reprogrammed to your car, ($). I charge $75.00 to repair Chrysler radios. You will pay over $400.00 to have your GM pile repaired.

GM has a very high failure rate with their computers. To prevent you from buying a used computer module from the salvage yard, new ones must be purchased from the dealer and they must be programmed to your car. From then on they will never work in any other car. Got'cha. GM is going to be a very profitable company for the next few years. There were too many people who said "never again" when asked about their GM vehicles, but there's a whole new crop of owners since the cash-for-clunkers law. All of them will be going back to the dealer for expensive repairs. THAT'S where GM makes their money.

On a related note, most owners aren't aware that mechanics can access every computer on the car with a scanner, and every one of those computers must talk with the Body Computer. If a computer has a different VIN programmed in than what is in the Body Computer, it won't operate. If the mechanic presses the "lock" function on the scanner, all of the up to 47 computers are tied to that Body Computer. You will never know if or when that was done until the day that computer fails. If the Body Computer fails and has to be replaced, ALL of the other computers must also be replaced. Got'cha! Imagine the cost of more than three dozen computer modules and the labor to program each one to the new Body Computer!

Sometimes various computers have to be "reflashed" with new software to address unforeseen problems or glitches. That is less expensive than replacing the computer so GM found a solution for that too. New software from most manufacturers is downloaded and installed over the internet. In an effort to lock out the independent repair shops, GM only makes that information available for three of their computers because the government mandated it. For everything else, you must go back to the dealership. Chrysler and Toyota allow full access to the independent shops for everything except the Security System. Who do you think has the customer's best interest at heart? Of course there's an annual charge to access the web site, and a small charge per download, but it's not much more than you're currently paying for your anti-virus software on your home computer. Hyundai allows full access to their web site to anyone for free including all downloads. Only GM ties everything up to protect their dealers.

The bottom line is I understand your frustration with your car, but boycotting a manufacturer only seems to be mentioned when it's Chrysler. I see the same kinds of problems all the time with ALL brands of cars. No one ever talks about boycotting GM or Ford. Chrysler's business practices toward their dealers and their customers is a whole lot better then GM's and Fords, and it's probably why they aren't as profitable. I could go on about Ford's "killer" cars with steering linkages that fall apart, wheels that can not be aligned so 15,000 miles is the best you will get on a set of tires, (but they ride nice on a test drive, so you buy that car), Got'cha! Or what about all of their safety-related recalls? Have you forgotten about their exploding gas tanks that would have cost them ten bucks per car to fix? How about the exploding tires? Their ignition switches with contacts that are so cheap, they have caused numerous house fires long after the engines were turned off? They're keeping that one pretty quiet. One was caught on a security camera catching fire two hours after the owner arrived at work. Things like these problems always seem to get dismissed by Ford and GM fans when arguing about brand loyalty but they scream the loudest when it's a different manufacturer with a problem. The defect or the poor design isn't what I take issue with; it's the manufacturer's response to the known problem that frustrates me.

The list of problems with newer cars is mind-boggling. Most of it is due to the addition of all of the silly computers and much is due to the greed of the manufacturers. Isn't it funny that little Chrysler has the fewest safety recalls, is one of the most customer-friendly, and is the most picked-on and least profitable company?

Caradiodoc
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Monday, January 31st, 2011 AT 1:08 AM
Tiny
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Caradiodoc,

I read your post. I feel like boycotting ALL American made cars after what myself and Lydiaa have been through. This is the FIRST American made car I have ever owned and I get this. My Chrysler has an oil leak, the gas gauge doesn't work, it's overheated on me twice for different reasons, for a long time the engine would cease to start and I would have to replace a tiny little fuse under the hood each time, and then the check engine light came on with the cylinder misfire. I swear the car is haunted! I have owned a Honda and a Mazda and never had problems with any of them. My ex-husband swears by Subaru and that will be my next car. I paid $10,000 for this 2004 Chrysler model back in 2007 and thank heavens it is paid off. Don't get me wrong. It is a cute little convertable and I love it (the body of it, that is). I now see monthly car repairs as my new car payment. It has 124,000 miles on it and after reading about this lawsuit I am lucky it's lasted that long. These computers they have on cars now seem to cause more problems than not.
Here is the irony. I no longer have the little fuse problem. Why? I don't know. I put the same amp in there every time. I still carry amps (I think 10 or 20 amp fuses) with me just in case which is a good idea. But now my check engine light is off. All I did was replace the fuel injector (which made the car run awful) and then had the mechanic put the old one back in again! ? Like I said before, haunted. But at this point I will just continue to drive it because it runs fine just like Lydiaa was talking about. It is just the check engine light coming on.
RoperLK
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Monday, January 31st, 2011 AT 3:44 PM

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