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1999 Chrysler Concorde blue smoke

Tiny
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Hey Kyle,

Topping oil off with syn blend is fine.

With the tranny since it doesn't slip when cold, I would change filter and fluid. Could be partially clogged filter and once let set over night or for long period of time the debri collecting on the filter drops to bottom of pan. Then once started again the debri gets churned up and starts clogging the filter again. Or could be the fluid is starting to break down and is fine when cold but starts to break down when get hot.

.
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Saturday, January 2nd, 2010 AT 11:19 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

Well it makes sense what you wrote. Although if my filer is clogged why does it show that symptom around 40-45 mph between 3rd and 4th.

Also I noticed that the top of the engine got oiled where the PCV valve is. I checked the hose and it has a small crack on and I guess the PCV is clogged too. So I think the PCV and its hose should be changed. I just ask that is it a good idea to change PCV if I have blow by that can come from worn piston rings or valve seals? Can it decrease the blow by effect or it would make it worse?

Thanks again!
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Tuesday, January 5th, 2010 AT 12:08 AM
Tiny
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Yes, change the PCV and hose. I didn't think about it till you just mentioned it. But, a clogged PCV can and will cause Oil Burning, and is the most over looked part and there are a lot of mechanics that will put the cause to Valves, Rings etc.

I had a vehicle a few years ago that no garage would touch because it was smoking and burning oil so bad, and they put it to Bad Valves or Rings without even looking at it. A good friend and ex-employer called me about it and I took a look at it. Found the PCV was very clogged. Change it and the hose drove down road, open highway and blew out all residual oil and she had no other problems. No more smoking, still burned a little oil just not as much.

.
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Thursday, January 7th, 2010 AT 8:53 AM
Tiny
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Hello,

I got my PCV and hose changed with my regular oil change + the BG quick clean and BG RF-7 compression restore. The result is AMAZING!

1, The throttle response is immediate!
2, Low and mid speed/RPM torque increased a LOT!
3, So far I saw much less blow by! (Knock, knock on my desk)

I feel that the car was reborn. It became much vivid! I do not know what caused that perhaps everything together but I am glad because of the big improvement.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2010 AT 5:06 PM
Tiny
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Hello,

I have just got my car fixed than I got Check engine light on! Dammit! I used the 3 time on/off method to read out the code from the car and I have

P153 and P1684

I went to Autozone and they read out just P 153.

P153 is O2 sensor problem and P 1684 is battery disconnected problem. First of all I had the same problems back in October when my O2 sensor was changed and now the exact same died again? In 2000 miles? And what is with the P1684? I got brand new Interstate battery in August and it wasn't disconnected after that. I checked the car's paper and the previous owner changed the SAME o2 sensor twice previously. (8000-9000 miles ago).

What is this problem? Why do they come back?

Thanks!
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Monday, February 8th, 2010 AT 10:59 AM
Tiny
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Hey Kyle,

DTC P0153-A: O2S 2/1 SLOW RESPONSE
NOTE:

For connector terminal ID, see CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION. For wiring diagram, see WIRING DIAGRAMS article.

The Signal Circuit is the Light Green/Red
The Ground Circuit is the Black/Orange

1. For O2 sensor/model identification see O2S 2/1 CONNECTOR WIRE IDENTIFICATION (HARNESS SIDE) table. This DTC sets if O2S 2/1 signal voltage is switching from less than.27 volts to more than.62 volts fewer times than required. Possible causes are: exhaust leak, fuel contamination, O2S failure, faulty electrical connections or O2S heater failure. Go to next step.

2. Start engine. Check for exhaust system leaks between engine and catalytic converter. If no exhaust system leaks are found, go to next step. If exhaust system leaks are found, repair exhaust system as necessary. Perform TEST VER-5A: ROAD TEST FOR OBD-II TROUBLE CODES.

3. Check exhaust for excessive smoke from coolant or oil consumption. If coolant or oil consumption is not present, go to next step. If coolant or oil consumption is present, repair engine mechanical failure as necessary. Replace O2S 2/1. Perform TEST VER-5A: ROAD TEST FOR OBD-II TROUBLE CODES.

4. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If Global Good Trip displayed is zero, go to step 6. If Global Good Trip displayed is not zero, using a DVOM, backprobe O2S 2/1 signal circuit between O2S 2/1 connector (harness side) and PCM connector terminal No. 29. See O2S 2/1 CONNECTOR WIRE IDENTIFICATION (HARNESS SIDE) table and PCM CONNECTOR WIRE IDENTIFICATION table. If voltage drop is less than.10 volts, go to next step. If voltage drop is.10 volts or more, repair high resistance in O2S 2/1 signal circuit. Perform TEST VER-5A: ROAD TEST FOR OBD-II TROUBLE CODES.

5. Using a voltmeter, backprobe O2S 2/1 ground circuit between O2S 2/1 connector (harness side) and PCM connector terminal No. 27. See O2S 2/1 CONNECTOR WIRE IDENTIFICATION (HARNESS SIDE) table and PCM CONNECTOR WIRE IDENTIFICATION table. If voltage drop is less than.10 volts, replace O2S 2/1. Perform TEST VER-5A: ROAD TEST FOR OBD-II TROUBLE CODES. If voltage drop is.10 volts or more, repair high resistance in O2S 2/1 ground circuit.

6. Using a DVOM, backprobe O2S 2/1 signal circuit between O2S 2/1 connector (harness side) and PCM connector terminal No. 29. See O2S 2/1 CONNECTOR WIRE IDENTIFICATION (HARNESS SIDE) table and PCM CONNECTOR WIRE IDENTIFICATION table. Observe DVOM while wiggling wiring harness. If voltage drop is less than.10 volts, go to next step. If voltage drop is.10 volts or more, repair high resistance on O2S 2/1 signal circuit. Perform TEST VER-5A: ROAD TEST FOR OBD-II TROUBLE CODES.

7. Using scan tool, read FREEZE FRAME data. Ensure hex code matches DTC on scan tool. Hex code should be 7A. If hex code corresponds to scan tool display, go to next step. If hex code does not correspond to scan tool display, repair DTC using FREEZE FRAME data. Perform TEST VER-5A: ROAD TEST FOR OBD-II TROUBLE CODES.

8. Reconnect O2S 2/1 connector. Drive vehicle under FREEZE FRAME data conditions. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If Global Good Trip displayed is zero, perform test procedure again. After performing test procedure again, perform TEST VER-5A: ROAD TEST FOR OBD-II TROUBLE CODES. If Global Good Trip displayed is not zero, DTC is not present at this time. Using scan tool, erase DTCs. Perform TEST VER-5A: ROAD TEST FOR OBD-II TROUBLE CODES.

Will Post more tommorrow have to go sick kids.

.
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2010 AT 9:18 PM
Tiny
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Ok, as for the P1684 Code. Have the Charging System Checked.

.
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Wednesday, February 10th, 2010 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
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Okay thanks for the detailed info!

As far as the P153 code so the O2 sensor issue I think I know what kills my o2 sensor continuously. I think because the engine burns oil (since PCV+hose change much less though) that can create carbon build up on the sensor. The strange thing is that why the same o2 sensor die all the time (bank 2 sensor 1)?

The P 1684 code was surprising. I went to the Chrysler dealership when I was told that the P 1684 did not make my check engine light come on and a special device (computer scan/diagnostic device) from Chrysler could delete that code thus it might remained in the computer and does not disappear until it is deleted. However I expected that it would go away after 50-70 ignitions.

In term of Charging system I checked the alternator charging that was fine but the serpentine belt seemed to be worn but it is still working so I have charging.

Do you have any idea why the same o2 sensor goes wrong all the time?

Thanks!
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Thursday, February 11th, 2010 AT 10:55 PM
Tiny
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Here are the Causes of the Code P0153 and some possible solutions.

Causes

A code P0153 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The oxygen sensor is faulty
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
There is an exhaust leak

Possible Solutions

Things that may fix the problem include:

Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
Replace the Bank 2 oxygen sensor upstream of the catalytic converter

.
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Saturday, February 13th, 2010 AT 12:12 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

I have got a huge problem! I got a red "low oil pressure" sign on! I was really close to home so I did no t need ti pull over in the middle of nowhere. I checked the oil level and it was around half on dipstick. I poured some more and turned on the engine but the light still there.

I believe I mustn't drive with that light on so I think I have to call a trailer to get my car to a shop. Three things seem to be possible in my opinion. 1, oil pump is dead. 2, low oil pressure sensor is dead 3, Oil switch went wrong. I do have a small oil leak at the oil pan drain plug but that should not make that light come on.

The engine runs fine not strange noise! The serpentine belt is worn and had some noise due to huger rain here for 3-4 days and I used belt conditioner on it so that helped.

What do you think should I do or check? How much should they charge for the repair if the problem is the oil pump?

Thanks!
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Sunday, April 18th, 2010 AT 11:02 AM
Tiny
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Ok, since you say you are not hearing any tapping or engine noise, then I would say that it is most likely the Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor.

If it was the Oil Pump you would hear tapping or even a knocking in the engine.

I would suggest replacing the Oil Pressure Switch/Sensor it is fairly easy to do and would be a cheap fix.

.
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Sunday, April 18th, 2010 AT 9:43 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

I called a wrecker to get my car to my mechanic. I told him my problem. He said if it is the pump then it would be 700-800$ OMG! What? IS that real?

The switch repair would be much cheaper he said.

If you check the oil pressure with that portable oil pressure gauge that you can just plug under the hood can you determine with that what went wrong? Pump or switch?

Thank you again!
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Monday, April 19th, 2010 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
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Yes, if you check the oil pressure and you have the recommended pressure then the culprit is the Switch.

The test should only take about 20 minutes. And that will depend on the location of the switch and how easy it is to get to.

.
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Monday, April 19th, 2010 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
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Okay thanks!

I think I will trade it in. I need to.

DO you think this would be a good purchase? Lincoln Zephyr 2006. 60.000 miles.I did some research the the Zephyr is the Mazda6/Fusion/Mercury Milan hybrid on lot of steroids. It has 6 sp auto and 3.0 V6 Duratech engine. IS the 3.0L duratech and Ford's 6 sp transmission are troublesome? And what about the other parts other car? Did you hear anything bad or good about the Zephyr or Milan or Mazda 6 or Fusion that I would need to check before I would buy? I am concerned about the 60.000 miles. That is lot but if the car lasts till 100 or 120 k without problems I am fine with that.

I will take it to a 3rd party to inspect but I just did not find any problem with this car on the internet unlike Chrysler or GM cars. The dealership got carfax too.
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2010 AT 8:24 AM
Tiny
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Honestly haven't had much dealings with any of the vehicles you mentioned. I my area they are not that popular. Also 60k really isn't a lot, most newer vehicles are lasting over 200k with regular maintenance.

I'm sure you will have the minor repairs that come with an engine with 60k on it. You could be looking at having to replace the Brakes, Fuel Pump, Starter, Alternator, Water Pump, and Timing Componants. Within the next 10k - 20k or 30k miles. And that is only a few thing and not all will go at the same time of course but they will at some point. That is the down fall of buying used.

.
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2010 AT 8:31 PM
Tiny
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Yes I thought about that. 60k service is pretty much change everything. So do you know how much would that cost to change all of the things that need to be changed at 60K? Just ballpark with labour.

Also do you think I should get synthetic oil at 60k? I mean I know that is better but is that not too late already to change to synthetic?

THANKS!
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Friday, April 23rd, 2010 AT 12:44 AM
Tiny
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Cannot really give an estimate, there are a lot of inspections and depending on the results. Most will most likely be fine and not need replacing. Here is a link to the Owners Manual with Maintenance Schedule...

http://www.fordparts.com
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Monday, April 26th, 2010 AT 7:05 PM

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