1996 Chrysler Concorde engine

Tiny
RAPPSKI
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 CHRYSLER CONCORDE
Electrical problem
1996 Chrysler Concorde 6 cyl Automatic 99000 miles

car will crank but will not start?
Saturday, January 9th, 2010 AT 9:38 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
What have you tried so far? Did it stall while driving or did you park and turn the engine off like normal, then it wouldn't start next time?

I know the chime can be distracting, but try to listen if the fuel pump runs for about two seconds after turning on the ignition switch, (not to "crank", just to "on"). You can also listen under the tank or by the filler pipe while a helper turns on the switch. It will make a soft whirring sound. If you do not hear it run for two seconds, the brushes in the motor might be worn. Very often you can get it started by banging on the bottom of the tank while your helper cranks the engine. If that gets it going, it will most likely fail again pretty soon. Pump replacement is the only permanent fix.

If you do hear the pump run for that short burst, it will turn on again when the engine computer sees engine rotation, (cranking or running). Next, pull a spark plug wire to check for spark while cranking. Most commonly it will be missing AND the fuel pump will not be running during cranking. The most common cause is a defective camshaft position sensor. Its pulses tell the computer the engine is turning and it's time to turn on the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay. That relay also turns on for that two seconds when you turn on the ignition switch. It sends power to the fuel pump or pump relay, the ignition coils, the injectors, the alternator field, and the oxygen sensor heaters.

A fuel pump with worn brushes will continue to run once it has started; it will not quit while you are driving. The camshaft position sensor will usually die while driving. It isn't likely to fail while unpowered and just sitting overnight, although "hot soak", a condition where engine heat builds up right after shutting it off rather than blowing away, can cause heat to migrate up to the sensor. That heat will not damage a good sensor, but it can be "the straw that breaks the camel's back" to a sensor that is about to fail.

Caradiodoc
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 10th, 2010 AT 12:18 AM
Tiny
RAPPSKI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
It also stalled once while driving --fired back up got it home and then would crank and would not start-noticed that the dash lights were going haywire-going to check the things you have mentioned with a buddy who knows alot more than I do --from the sounds of things I dont think I am getting fire to plugs or fuel to engine
thanks again for your help
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, January 10th, 2010 AT 4:48 AM
Tiny
RAPPSKI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Suppose to specialize in ELECTIC PROBLEM-put DIAGOTICR euipment - but recieved no code back
never when driving the car THE didnot the CHECK ENGINE LITE come on --been told this is a BIG PROBLEM when checking for electic short?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 13th, 2010 AT 4:26 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links