Cranks but will not start

Cranks over and will not start

Do below might lead you somewhere

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing

Did you check compression and the timing belt?

Roy

What is the compression?

Roy

Thats why we asked for the compression. If the belt moved a tooth off it will give you a power issue

the timing is not adjustable on these anymore.

Roy

Grab a test light or voltmeter and measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire at one of the injectors. You might need a stretched out paper clip to back-probe next to the wire. You should find 12 volts there for one second after turning on the ignition switch, then it should come back during engine cranking. Holler back with what you find.

Caradiodoc

One of the reasons we don't answer is whenwe ask you aquestion like what is fuel pressure, ok is not an answer we need to know psi. Wht are the codes or have you bothered to scan it and figure i'll just replace parts. Have you checked the fuses for the gauges, two on lh side of dash and one under hood? Have you checked under the lh kick panel for a good ground.

Just so I'm clear, you found 0 volts on the dark green / orange wire while a helper was cranking the engine, right? If that's the case, most likely the crankshaft position sensor is not working or the camshaft position sensor in the distributor is not working.

Caradiodoc

If the computer was shorted out it wouldn't run at all. Grounds are very important and if dirty/corroded they can give problems. Also chryslers seem to have aproblem with the automatic shutdown relay. Just because we didn't ask for fp, doesnt' mean that you can't come back with what it was as we dont' know what ok means or your ability to repair cars. That is why you need to check and see what fuel pressure is including after shutdown because it can make injectors run to rich as well as other things. You think you know how to repair it have fun

Let's back up a minute. Put your voltmeter back on that dark green / orange wire. Watch it while a helper turns on the ignition switch. If you see around 12 volts for just one second when the switch is turned on, that circuit is working.

Next, that voltage must come back during engine cranking. When the engine is rotating, (cranking or running), the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor send pulses to the Engine Computer. The computer turns on the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. That's the relay that sends the 12 volts to the dark green / orange wires to the injectors and coil in the distributor. If that voltage stays a steady 12 volts during engine cranking there's no need to look at those two sensors.

Did you install a new or used crank sensor? New ones will have a thick paper spacer stuck to the end to set the critical air gap or there will be a thin plastic rib molded to the end of it. When you install a used sensor you are supposed to cut off any remaining rib if there is one, then use a new paper spacer.

Caradiodoc