No power (or ground?) To driver's door

Tiny
MCOLA77
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I opened up that whole wiring harness following both light blue and both dark blue wires for the brake lights and blinkers. The problem is between both fuse blocks. Are you talking about that big lo g flasher relay that's $75.00, lol. I bought one of them already too l ever took apart the fuse block under the dash to see if anything was burnt it looked good.
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 12:48 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
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Just to be sure we are on the same page, but it sounds like we are, I am attaching the info below on this flasher module.

However even if you replaced that and traced the wires, we are still dealing with a short. Anytime a fuse blows as soon as you put it in, we have a short to ground prior to the load in the circuit. Basically, we need the load (light bulb, module, actuator, or whatever is getting powered) to use the voltage so that the current is used as well. If we don't then the current racing through the wire creates heat and that will melt the wiring or blow the fuse.

So, I understand you inspected the wiring but let's check it for a short to ground with a meter or test light and that will tell us for sure. Or you can just run a new jumper wire and see if the fuse stops blowing. Sometimes you cannot see the pinched wire, so it is missed.
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 7:25 AM
Tiny
MCOLA77
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Yes, everything worked until putting stuff back together that one in the morning. I'm going to test, and jumper wire it today between dash and under the hood Fuse block to where it come out on the frame, I'll tough base later on.
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 12:58 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Sounds great. Thanks for the update. We will wait to hear back. Thanks
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Thursday, December 30th, 2021 AT 6:59 PM

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