Engine Won't Start?

Tiny
KAINLAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHEVROLET COBALT
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 15,000 MILES
Hi,
I ran my car through some high water and it stalled, I let it dry for about a day and went to try and start it and it just clicks once and doesn't even attempt to turn over. All the electrical stuff works, lights, radio, etc, and the check engine light is on. How would I go about diagnosing the problem?
Thanks
Sunday, July 12th, 2009 AT 2:34 AM

67 Replies

Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,030 POSTS
When you drove throught the water it got sucked up throught the air box and into the intake,when this happens the engine becomes hyda-locked,which means water enters the combustion chamber and floods the engine,and in most cases bends a connecting rod on one of the pistons.(because water cant be compressed) so it bends the rod causing it to not start,I would check the oil for any signs of water and I would try to rotate the engine at the crankshaft to see if it rotates smooth or locks up and that will tell you.post back with any other questions.

THis guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Sunday, July 12th, 2009 AT 12:23 PM
Tiny
KAINLAN
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How would I do this?
Thanks
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Sunday, July 12th, 2009 AT 12:46 PM
Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
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Usually a socket and rachet on the end of the crankshaft bolt, then try and rotate the engine and see if it turns smoothly or is locked up, and check the oil level, see if its over full and has water in it.
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Sunday, July 12th, 2009 AT 12:50 PM
Tiny
KAINLAN
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  • 5 POSTS
I checked the oil level and it's pretty hard to tell what it's at the oil isn't sticking to the dipstick very well. I also checked my air filter and it was wet.
Thanks
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Sunday, July 12th, 2009 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
KAINLAN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hi,
I got the car scanned to see why the check engine light was on. It's giving code p0103 which is P0103 Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Frequency ECM, PCM, can anyone decipher this for me?

Thanks
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Sunday, July 12th, 2009 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,030 POSTS
Start the engine and observe the MAF Sensor parameter for a proper range of 4,950-5,025 Hz.
à †’ If the MAF Sensor parameter is not within the specified range, replace the ECM.

à †’ If the MAF Sensor parameter is within the specified range, replace the MAF sensor. Follow this info.
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Monday, July 13th, 2009 AT 5:50 PM
Tiny
KAINLAN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks for continually replying to my brian I just have a quick question, would this sensor prevent the car from starting? Also I noticed when I attempt the start the car the security light is on, could that have anything to do with it? I also cleared the code so the check engine light would turn off, but it's still on and there's no codes being shown.

Thanks
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Monday, July 13th, 2009 AT 6:02 PM
Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
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Well, no the MAF sensor wouldnt prevent it from starting it would give an idle surge or unstable idle. The security light is a different problem, actually you have 2 different problems here.I know you ran throught water with this vehicle, which could definitly affect the MAF sensor.
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Monday, July 13th, 2009 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
FSTOP
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2006 CHEVROLET COBALT
Other Category problem
2006 Chevy Cobalt 6 cyl 60000 miles

I changed my fuel filter and now the car won't start. I also replaced the rubber boots that fit onto the sparkplugs
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DENNYP
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,824 POSTS
Turn the key on and off a few times, the try to start it.
Also make sure you have all your electrical connectors plugged in.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FSTOP
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
It almost seems like the fuel pump is not working. This whole endeavor was prompted by getting a random/multiple misfire code in conjunction w/ very rough engine idling and running. This happened w/o warning. It ran fine when I parked it then when I went to start it the next day it ran poorly. Could a flakey fuel pump have been my trouble all along?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DENNYP
  • MECHANIC
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The fuel pump could definately be the problem. You should check the pressure to make sure.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAKWS6
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 CHEVROLET COBALT
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 31,000 MILES
I'm working on my sister inlaw's 06 Cobalt that won't start. I've checked fuel pressure (60psi), spark, fuses and swapped around the relays. It will fire with starting fluid but thats all. I even reset the passlock. When I hook up my scanner it shows no injector pulse and plugs are dry.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
. When I hook up my scanner it shows no injector pulse and plugs are dry. Check if the injectors are getting power if so could be the ground driver's within the computer
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-2
Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISSYLGK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 CHEVROLET COBALT
Engine Mechanical problem
2006 Chevy Cobalt Automatic 60000 miles

This morning, I tried to start the car as usual. It wouldn't start. When I cranked it, my dash showed the "Security Light" (picture of a car and a lock), and the engine light. The car clicked and made a small whine.
At first, I couldn't get the key out. After giggling it, it came out. I thought that the steering wheel wasn't locked (that's what I thoguht the Security light was for before looking in the book.)
I have manual locks and I don't think I have an alarm system, so I don't think this is really a security issue. I looked at other sites and they all said to leave the key in on "On" (without cranking) for 10-30 minutes and the lock will "reset" and the car will start.
When I left the key in on "On, " everything started flashing- my control panel, my radio, the temperature, my headlights, and some of the warning lights in the dash. Also, the car kept clicking. The clicking and flashing would go in 15-20 second intervals. Then the car would be still and quiet for a few seconds and the clicking/flashing would start again.
After a couple minutes with the key in the ignition, my "Battery Saver On" light came up. At that point, I took the key out because I didn't want the battery to die out on me, too.
(I know the Cobalt has had a fuel pump recall but I already fixed that. But I have not done anything with the Power Steering which has also been recalled.)
What else should I try before calling the dealership?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Sound's like you have a bad ignition switch pretty common causing a no start and the security light to come on. You will have to go to a shop that can read your body control module code's and see if you have a B3033 and or B2960 then I would replace the ignition switch.
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+1
Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HERE4HELPWITHCARS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 CHEVROLET COBALT
2006 Chevy Cobalt

my friend's car just stopped working yesterday night on the interstate so he pulled off and went and bought a new battery. After putting in the new battery the car still refused to turn over and start, so this morning they had it towed to a repair shop. After replacing the starter the car still would not turn over and start. What is wrong with his car?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,030 POSTS
Did you check fuel pressure and spark? An engine has to have 3 things to run, fuel spark and air, its missing one of these. Post back with what you find.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROADIE87
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2006 CHEVROLET COBALT
2006 Chevy Cobalt 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt LS 2.2L. I first had a problem with it when it didn't want to start. It died on me while driving and I had it towed to a mechanic. They said it was a bad battery and they replaced it. My car ran great for about a month, and it started stalling on my when I came to a stop. Usually about once a week, and then gradually over the next few weeks it would happen more and more. The SES light came on so I plugged in a pocket scanner and it gave me 2 codes, p0335, and p0336. So I bought a new ckp sensor and installed it. Then went to try to restart my car to see if the ckp sensor fixed my problems and it wouldn't start. It would crank, but not fire. I checked the ignition coils and there was no spark, so I replaced the ignition coil and it did nothing. I also heard I should check my G103 ground. I'm at a loss, and don't feel like footing another 100 or more dollars to have my car towed to a mechanic so they can charge me even more for something I could possibly do.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRIAN 1
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,030 POSTS
Check for a chaffed wire near the purge solenoid, which would cause a short to ground, and when replaceing a crank pos sensor it has to be relearned with a tech 2 scan tool or the vehicle will never start. The reason there is no spark is because the crank sensor has to see crankshaft RPM for it to have spark. Also check the reluctor wheel on the crankshaft for damage. Start here first and post back with what you find, you might have a deeper problem.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 12:25 PM (Merged)

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