My engine is hard starting?

Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
55 psi is weak for these trucks. 60-66 is what it is supposed to be with the key on and engine off. It should bleed down losing maybe 1 or 2 psi per minute to start. And they really do need 60 psi to start like they should.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JSPATTON
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  • 4 POSTS
The fuel pressure is 61 - 62 psi with key on and engine off.
For some reason after it sits all night it starts right up first thing in the morning. After that it's hard to start after 5-10 minutes of sitting. Even after it's been sitting all day while I'm at work it's hard to start when I get off. But after sitting all night it starts up as soon as it turns over. You would think after sitting all night it would be the hardest time to start it.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HARRY P
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Hmmmmmmmm. This may seem like it's coming from left field but have you had the battery tested? Could be delivering weakish sparks when cranking.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JPATTON8
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
  • 1999 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 4.3L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 184,000 MILES
It starts up fine but once driven if it sits more than about fifteen minutes it has to crank for four to six seconds. If you start it before then it starts right up. It might sputter a little when it first fires up but runs fine after. If I let it set over night or longer it starts right up. I started it this weekend after sitting over a week and it started right up. Even if it cools down for eight to nine hours after work it still cranks awhile before starting. I replaced the fuel pump a couple of years ago and put a new fuel injection system in it not too long ago. I replaced to whole fuel spider. And a new crank sensor. Someone said it could be the check valve on the fuel pump but that does not make sense because it starts fine after a day or more. And it does it whether it is warm or cold outside.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HARRY P
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If the new fuel pump is an aftermarket pump, then that is what the problem is. Once warmed up, it cannot quite put out the fuel pressure that it is supposed to. Hence the long crank time. My 2002 does the exact same thing and has an aftermarket pump in it. The problem started when I put that pump in.

To confirm, try priming the fuel system by turning the key on for five seconds, then off. Then repeat that twice more (total three times) and then crank it. It should fire up much easier.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JPATTON8
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I have done that and it did not do any good. Also, even when it has sat for nine hours while I am at work it cranks a long time before starting. It seems like it has to set about a day or so before starting right.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HARRY P
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Have you run a fuel pressure test on it? I would start there. Simply borrow the gauge from AutoZone or whoever has a loan-a-tool program near you. Warm the truck up. Then shut it off and wait a while. The hook up the gauge, turn the key on, and see what it reads. This truck needs 60psi to start. Any less will cause issues.

Here is a general how to guide: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
*KILROY*
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  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 4.3L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Replaced engine about a year and half year ago, and had problem then. Did not think much of it as it always started second try. Now takes about a dozen tries and backfires and runs rough. It has new tune, and fuel pressure is 62 and bleeds down to about 42 after an hour, pumps right back when switched on and drops to 60 when cranking.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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Scan for codes and check for a vacuum leak then compression. Also, check distributor rotor to see if it moves if it does the distributor gear is probably shot.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANGEL7329
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 200K miles

the engine will turn over but will not start or hard to start must turn it over many times before it starts changed fuel filter and cleaned coil and it started ran for a while but now will not start again
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi:
When you have the no start problem, have you checked for both fuel and spark? If you have both, you may need to check the engine's compression. Let me know so I can further advise you.

Joe
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MSIMPSON50
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
1998 blazer 4.3 hard to start after sitting for 6-8 hours. Its has 58lbs of fuel pressure
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Have you checked to see if the spark is a hot blue snapping spark?
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MSIMPSON50
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This is my dads trk and he has only checked fuel pressure. What is odd is that once it starts, its runs perfect, no lack of power, no loss of fuel eco.
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+1
Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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One other thought is the temp sensor. It's purpose is to tell the computer the ambient temp and the coolant temp. If it isn't recognizing the correct temps, the engine will be hard to start. It basically took the place of the choke on a carb. You may want to recommend having that checked too.
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-1
Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMODOG2
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 4.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Will not start in morning without shot of either, then runs and starts fine the rest of day.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Sounds like the fuel is draining back out of the system. The common reason for that is the check valve in the pump failing and the fuel drains back.
To see if this is the issue try a simple test. Turn the key to "on" then "off" two to three times to run the pump prime and fill the system. If it starts okay after that you are losing the fuel pressure when it sets still. Easy to verify if you put a pressure gauge on the system. When you turn the key on the pressure should go up to 55-60 psi, turn the key off and it should hold there, If it drops off the check valve is leaking.
Then you just need to determine if it's leaking back into the tank or if the injection is leaking internally. Easy way to tell if that is the case. Has the gas mileage dropped a lot when this started? If yes it is likely an internal leak, no means it is the check valve in the pump.

If it is the check valve you have a couple options, drop the tank and replace the pump assembly (use a GM/Delco/Delphi pump) or you can add in a check valve in the fuel line to hold the pressure.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2020 AT 12:43 PM (Merged)

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