Heater core?

need manual CHECK IT @
https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm
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Once the engine warms up and the thermostat opens up feel both heater hoses going into the firewall, under the hood. The should now both be hot. If one is hot and the other cool or just warm then the heater core is clogged. If so, you could try back-flushing but if that does not knock loose the clog, then you will have to replace the heater core.
If both heater hoses are cool or just warm, see if there is a heater control valve located on either of those heater hoses, then if so, check the hose in front of and just after that valve and make sure they are both hot. If now, see if that valve vacuum hose fell off, etc, or if the valve is just stuck.

Here is a guide that can help as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

The throwout bearing is what pushes against the fingers on the pressure plate and disengages the clutch to allow the shifting of the tranny. The bearing is failing but it still is doing its job. However, it is starting to grumble like an old man and replacement of the throwout is part of a clutch replacement. Replacing the clutch is very near for you.

Bruce Hunt is right.
You could have a clutch problems or internal transmission problems : neutral rollover rattle, damage input gear bearings misalignement of transmission with engine, worn or damage bearings. Check your fluid level first, it could be low. You could also have worn or brokken gears, excessive counter shaft end-play, or the main shaft gears are loose.

Well, patients, but the underside of the right dash below the glove box has to come off and the heater core removed from the inside, make sure to block hoses off before repair,
JIM

O1 is a little different, the whole dash does not have to come out per say, remove heater hoses and block off, remove speaker covers and center defroster grill you will find a bunch of phillips head screws along the op remove all but two, remove all lower dash covers, and there are six main bolts that do not have to come out but losse, if you look hard you will see which ones would make the dash fall toward the seat, then remove two top scews you left in, dash will fall back and you have a few more screws on the core cover, book calls for 1o hrs ive done them in six but I break it up into two days so your not stuck under there all day

You might try a good radiator flush and then taking a hose and back flushing the heater core before going the trouble of replacing the core, especially if it's not leaking. You have to pull the dash out to get he heater core out on that model. Of course check to make sure that you have afull coolant as that will effect your heat if it is low. If itis then have your engine pressure checked as you may have a bad intake or head gasket.

Go under the hood ontop of the evap core, and there sits the blower motor resistor, there are three bolts, you will not be able to see them but there is a cutting guide on the housing to cut the plastic to reveal the bolts 5.5mm once the resister is pulled look down into the box and you will see one 10mm bolt that needs to come out , also there are two under, one is behind the right exhasut manifold and the other is same height but closer to the right wheel, these two go to studs on the lower right corner of the ac module and one right next to the heater hoses and its out, sorry about that I thought you meant just the dash, warning the one behind rhe exhaust manifold is tricky 10mm one turn at a time, and if you do want more room you can drop the column should be 4 retainers 10mm and two column boilts 15 mm but I alway snuck em out without it, its tougher but savers about 20 minutes in the round trip, oh and I never unplug anything I always more a harness from a clip if needed, no sense in pulling what you dont need, as long as the battery is disconnected the air bags will be ok, remember all you need to do is to pull the module out enough to clear the heat core lines on the inside of the firewall to remove the two top cover bolts, thats why I never go too far

As long as you have the tree plus the one one the firewall at the heater core lines you should be good, the two on the lower firewall are studsthey may be holding you up and as long as you pulled theresistor out and got that one give it a yank

With the engine at full operating temperature, locate the two heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If they are both hot, the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. It is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.