Cranks, won't start

Tiny
MUGZY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
It's the one labeled Eng-1 that has the camshaft, o2, egr, ect. So far the drivers side O2 sensor tested dead short in every wire, and prior to this the code scanner called to change the cam, throttle, and map sensors. Plus an ohms test on the crank sensor show to be week but still able to opperate but I just went and changed it any way. It has an alarm system on it so I just swapped out the ignition switch to by pass all the alarm circuts. I have plenty of fuel pressure ands a noid test on the injector system showed all are flashing. It's like the PCM/VCM what ever you wonna call it won't sink in timing and fuel. When I stop cranking it some times diesels about 1 revoloution. Some how it sounds like it's firing 180 degrees of timing but the destributor was never removed and there is no play at all on my timing gears. I am a certified mechanic with 12 years under my belt and never have a vehicle kick my but like this one. There has never been a vehicle I couldn't fix but this one has just broke my record. I've never been to proud to ask my friends in the bussiness for advice, this time their all stumped. So in short I'm getting fuel and spark to the cylinder but not at the right time. Starting fluid won't work either but it does stop the dieseling after I spray. The relay getting warm when sitting was the ignition switch was turned too far back to accessory so that one is solved. I never change parts unless I know for sure it's bad or faulty. If questionable I take the old part to the part store with me and ohms test it up against two new ones to be sure. If the values don't match or a at least close I change it. I just walk away from it for a day to get my head cleared and start fresh tommorow. One thing for sure is I no longer have a wirng short and there are no more codes on the scanner, out of all the old sensors the only one the scanner picks up as bad when placed back on the engine is the throttle position sensor. Apparently it won't read the rest unless it's running. Did I leave anything out?
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BADGTO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Oh, btw omit the Astro part of title. Just now realised it said that. Not sure how that got there. Anyway Haven't tried the communicate part, will get code reader and check. Thanks!
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Sounds like your way ahead of me. Is there any compression? How do you know gas is getting into the cylinder? Does this have the spider fuel system? Are the plugs wet?
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
I've seen titles like that before, don't know why that happens? They are working on the site, don't know if that has anything to do with it?
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BWALKER05
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
I have a 1997 Astro Van which was having problems with spontaneously stalling. It happened in October and it would crank but would not start. I had it towed, it sat a month or so, I replaced a fuel filter (the fuel pump was replaced a year ago) and it started and ran fine for about 2 months. Then it started to sometimes, on rare occassion seem like it was going to shut off when you were driving, but would be okay. It did one day but I was able to get it started back up. I thought that the fuel system could need flushed as we are guilty of sometimes running on E or close to E and after parking it at the garage, it would not start back up. I had it towed again, tried replacing the crank shaft sensor and that did not work. I have also noticed that I am not getting any spark in the distributor. I am desperate!
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Hello, is there any primary voltage at the coil, pink wire, goes hot with the key on? With the key on any voltage at the fuel injectors?
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BWALKER05
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I'm not sure, I had a friend look at it and he told me it was not getting spark at the distributor. How could I test this?
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Hi, there are several ways to check for spark. You can take a plug-boot loose from a spark plug. Use a known good plug or spark tester in the boot. Ground tester or metal part of plug to metal part of engine. Have a helper crank the engine, while you watch for spark at the plug or tester. If no spark, take the coil wire loose from the dist cap, hold close to engine ground, watch for spark to jump as engine is cranked.

If the injectors are pulsing during testing, you may flood the cylinders, making the vehicle even harder to start.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VERLA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 82,000 MILES
New fuel pump and filter. If I use starter fluid to start
it it will run fine and start ok. Let it set for a few hours and it will not start unless I use starter fluid again.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
So the engine totally cools then is hard to start? If so check the ect(engine coolant temp) sensor. It's betwwen the first or last two cylinders on the drivers side head. Replace when the engine is cold.
Other possibilty is Last tune up, new plugs wires, and fuel filter was? And also Fuel pressure regulator.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi Verla, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation.

Check your fuel pressure, if ok, test the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MJTVILLE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300,000 MILES
This has been a very good work vehicle for me and I can not believe how reliable it has been. Anyways. The battery is about a year old, alternator is charging fine and when it starts, the engine runs great. The issue that just started is when I turn the key to the on position all instrument lights come on as always, turn the key to start, I hear the fuel pump, and a click of the starter relay in the engine compartment but no starter or solenoid click. Fuses all check out as good and I swapped relays in engine compartment. This has happened about three times in the past year, and after a few minutes, it would start right up. As of two days ago, nothing. I was able to start it with a screw driver at the starter to get the van home, but still not starting with key. Where do I start with trouble shooting and repair? Thanks so much.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi:
It sounds like the ignition switch may be going bad. If the car starts when you jump the starter, that indicates that there is no problem with the security system, fuel, or ignition. The only thing I can suggest is to have the switch checked and go from there. With 300K on it, the switch may just be wearing out.

Joe
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KIDDER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 187,000 MILES
Iv done a whole tune up plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Iv seald the cap with silacone to make sure it was sealed but still fails to start when its wet. After cranking it for 20 mins it starts then is fine. One time I was driving and it stated snow really hard so hard I could only see like 5 yards in front of me and the my van cut out it took like 30 mins to crank and finally fire up and run. It like the more you crank it its drying something out I dont get it help me please
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
I need you to test something. When it is dark out, open the hood and start the engine. Spray a light mist of water over the ignition wires, distributor car, coil. To see if anything is arcing.

Let me know what you find.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MADMACS4417
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 152,000 MILES
My engine was hard starting, now won't start unless I use start fluid. Once its warm, starts first click and runs great. Does not throw any codes, fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,394 POSTS
I woudl change the engine temp sensor. I could be telling the ECM the motor it is warmer than it is on cold start.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANY324
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
Noises problem
1997 Chevy Astro Two Wheel Drive Automatic

when I parked for more 4 hours
it si hard to start it cranks but it won`t start. After many trys finally it starts.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there, Get the fuel pressure tested and have a general tune up including a scan for any unresolved fault codes, start here.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TECHMAN1
  • MEMBER
  • 82 POSTS
So is your fuel pump relay bad? Try this simple test. Right above your battery is a relay box. The fuel pump relay and the air conditioner enable relay are the same and right side by side. Swap them and see if your problem goes away.

Ken
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)

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