Cranks, won't start

Tiny
LOWTECH55
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 127,000 MILES
Me too - leaky coil

I just finished up a couple months of fooling around with a 97 Astro that would quit without warning, fire back up sometimes, sometimes not. It would run all day one day, then not start the next. I make service calls, putting on 100-150 miles a day. I don't enjoy getting stuck far from home, or spending a lot of unnecessary money.

Well, now I can say, with only a little trepidation, that it is finally fixed. I had the same problem that Chubber22 posted under 1996 Chevy Astro won't start: a bad ignition coil. Here's my story. Hope it helps someone.

I bought the van used about two and a half years, and 68K ago. The fuel pump was noisy all along, with a high pitched whine which would get louder on hot days, but it worked nonetheless. One day back in September we had a heat wave up into the 90s. The fuel pump got louder than ever. Then the van started stalling pulling out from a stop. But it would restart right away. Then it also started stalling on right hand turns, but again would restart. My tank was full. This happened all on one day. I suspected the fuel pump, and took it to a local garage the next day.

They kept it all day. They said there were no codes. They said it ran fine all day long for them. They used it to run errands with a scanner hooked up. It was the old "can't fix it if it ain't broke". I went home $85 and a quarter tank of gas lighter. Two days later the van quit altogether.

The AAA tow guy got it started by thumping on the bottom of the gas tank while I cranked it, further proof it was indeed the fuel pump. I bought a pump from an internet store and installed it myself, saving at least $400. The nylon mesh filter sock on my pump was virtually blocked with dark varnish-looking material. Other than that the inside of the tank was clean as a whistle. I assume the pump wore out from straining against a blocked intake filter. I was also in the habit of running the tank down to E before refilling, something Chevrolet advises against because the upper pump bearing will overheat when it isn't submerged in gas. I know better now. I also replaced the filter. The van ran great again. I did feel a little uneasy though, because I don't understand how a failing pump would account for stalling when pulling out or going around corners. But there was no doubt it needed a pump.

Fast forward two months and 4000 miles, it quits again pulling out from a stop. It won't restart. I try on and off for a half hour and it won't start. My wife comes to get me, and an hour after it first quit, it starts. I drive it home and park it. The next day it won't start. Or the next. This time I can hear the fuel pump running. So for the time being I'm going to assume it isn't a fuel problem I'm having this time.

I pull off the doghouse to take a look at things, and pull the coil wire out of the dist cap to see if I have spark. I crank it and I do indeed have spark, and not only that, doesn't it start right up! Figures. So far I've proved nothing and I've fixed nothing, but it runs. How frustrating.

I pull the plugs. They are original (127,000 miles) so I replace them, though I don't believe they have anything to do with my problem. I replace the original cap & rotor though they don't look like they're a problem either. My 97 isn't experiencing that moisture in the distributor problem I've been reading about online. And never at any point in all this did my van miss or start hard. When it ran, it ran great, and when it didn't, it didn't. I'm at a loss.

So, since it's running again, I use it for two days straight with no problems. On the third day it won't start. I'm really discouraged and disgusted now. I love how this vortec van runs, so much more than my 92 Astro, but I'm about ready to trade it in on something else.

I take one last stab at it. I pull the doghouse and check for spark again. There is none. No spark. Now I'm getting somewhere, maybe. I'm working outside because I can't get in the garage because the van won't start and I'm cursing the waning daylight. Then, as I'm cranking the engine and simultaneously pushing and pulling on harnesses and wires and components, I see arcing tracing down the coil tower and coil body! Now that it got a little darker outside, I see it! I have a bad coil, definitely!

And I'm now back on the road.

That still doesn't explain why it quit while pulling out from a stop though.
Coincidence?
Tuesday, January 15th, 2008 AT 2:55 PM

47 Replies

Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Harder throttle requires more from the coil. If it is borderline,then under high demand it will short out.

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Tuesday, January 15th, 2008 AT 5:27 PM
Tiny
EJSTADLER
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  • 0 POST
I had this problem had to get a new crankshaft angle sensor all fixed the guide was great BTW
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM
Tiny
LZHLPM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
Dear with 166000 mile 4.3l. About a year ago I did a tune up, new plug wire and plugs but now am having touble. Have replaced coil distributor cap and rotor.
My trouble is my 1997 chev astro van will not start when it rains or heavy dew.
It runs fine when dry or during a rain storm. But rain It will turn over, there is gas, there is spark from coil but none from distributor to plugs but if I add a wire and plug to ground there is spark or if I turn the distributor (made hole bigger) there is spark, just no ignition and when you shut the key off, it acts like it wants to start. I have had it put on a computer diagnostic, but nothing was found. New distributor cap, and rotor. If you let it sit until the dew is gone, it starts with no problem. Any thoughts on the problem?
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ZGOLAR
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I have the same problem wit my 99 shevy sliverado 4.3. There is a few things I would check. Start checking that all your srscors are not corroaded and all have a clean connection. As there is wide spread problems with mositure getting in when corroded. Next thing I would check is the cap it self as they are known to be bad. There should be vent holes in the bottom with screens make sure they are clear. Also check the coil and make sure that it is not arcing out there may be a crack in it where mositure is getting in. The last thing I would check is the fuel prussure to make sure that is correct as the pumps are noted to go bad and can cause problems. Goog luck.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARLANGAS5
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
I did tune up to my van after do not start, I change
distruibuidor cap, rotor, sparks, sparks wires, fuel pump
fuel filter, and still dead
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
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Hello,

Ok, will need more info on problem before continueing on.

When you say do not start does it.

Turn over just not start

or

Doesn't do anything or you just here a click or clicking noise.

.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARLANGAS5
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
When I did the tune up the car was working good, after the tune up is not working
I checked the fuel pressure and it was low, I changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and wire. It still does not run. When I put some gas directly into the throttle body it works, but after it runs out the car stops.

By it not starting I mean it's not running, the engine rotates but doesn't start
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
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Ok, when you turn the key to the "ON" position without starting, can you hear the fuel pump turn on for a 3 - 5 seconds?

If not check the relay.

Also when you changed the Pump did you change the Wiring Harness?

.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARLANGAS5
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
When I turn the key on I hear the fuel pump works. I put a new relay too. My question was why when I put the starting fuel, it works and after it runs out it stops. I have sparks but I haven't checked the ignition switch module.

I also changed the wiring harness.

Where do you think is the problem?
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
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I believe your problem is with the Injectors below is a pic of what it looks like and is usually replaced as a unit.

I say this because you can spray or put fuel in the throttle body and it will start up and run till uses fuel up.

It is also common with your situation.


https://www.2carpros.com/images/question_images/199246/original.jpg

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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MGTPAINT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
For several months my van keeps dying, and does not start sometimes in the morning. When it would die it would start back up after about 15 minutes. In the morning it would take sometimes 45 minutes just to get it to start.I put a new battery in it, and is still doing it. The problem only occurs when it is either raining or snowing or it's very mosit/humid out. The van when it runs, runs like a champ. Just woundering if you could give me some do it your self ideas, before I junk it. I am lost on what it could be. The final straw was the other day when it was snowing bad and all of a sudden it started smoking inside the van and out it was a thick blue black smoke. Coolant spilled everywhere, and I was getting no oil pressure.I would greatly appreciate some advice. Thanks so much.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BILLYMAC
  • MECHANIC
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Hi billymac here. Well this prob is most likely not going to be just one thing. But let, s break it down to the no start prob. The most likely suspect would be a distributor prob either a cracked cap or a cap seal missing or broken. Another possibility would be plug wires. The best place to start is with a good tune up wires plugs cap rotor fuel filter pcv air filter oil change. This will cure most probs of this nature. But to accurately diagnose a prob like this we would need to know at the time it won, t start something it needs to run is missing. Fuel spark compression fuel pressure. Ofcourse none of these are suscepital to moisture. But then a good tune up never hurts. Another thing to check at nite eng running open hood do you see arching from wires. If yes bad wires. Hope this helps. Billymac
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BADGTO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 238,000 MILES
Will not fire, have checked and changed coil, module, had both checked and were good, changed with new that were also good and still nothing. Changed distributor out of running truck with bad engine. Fuel pump was replaced just prior to this. Was firing then and ran app. 15 mins. Before not starting again. Looked at all connections and can't find nothing there. Should I buy a ecm? Any help appreciated!
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark everywhere, use a gage and check fuel pressure. What is the fuel pressure spec?

Any applicable trouble codes? Which is it, an astro or silverado. I don't believe the astro came with a v8.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BADGTO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
No codes, and no fire anywhere. Had just replaced the fuel pump, pressure now good and had ran app. 15 mins had started and shut it off a few times in that span. Went to move it to front of house when it has not started again.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
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If no spark, check primary voltage at the ignition coil, pink wire, goes hot with the key on. That voltage comes from the ecm 1 fuse, underhood fuse box. There are several circuits that get voltage off that one fuse. Hope it isn't blown.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BADGTO
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Everything has voltage, that I can tell. No fuses blown or grounds lose or anything that I can find. Has left me wondering if ecm has up and gone bad. Not sure what else to check or how to. The only thing I haven't changed is the ecm and the crank sensor, and ignition switch. Not sure how much each, other than ecm, they play a roll in firing. Thanks again for the help!
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MUGZY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET ASTRO
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
Although I did run but hard to start when hot, I had a cam position sensor code so I replaced the cam sensor and no it won't start. I put the old one back and it still won't start. I went and got another cam sensor still nothing. The engine fuse for that circut keeps blowing. I traced it to a shorted heated O2 sensor and replaced it the fuse no longer blows but he ignition relay gets warm very quickly. Replace ignition switch, coil, moduel, map sensor, throttle position sensor, computor ad still no start. This all started will I was cranking to line up the open notch in the destributor to remove the cam sensor. I pulled the whole engine harness and found nothing wrong?
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
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I didn't see ignition relay? Which fuse was blowing? Do you see anything in the picture that you recognize? OK, I did find a upfitter ignition relay, not sure what circuits that controls, unless trailer wiring harness?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_astro_relay_center_underhood_1.jpg

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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
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Can you communicate with pcm? Can you unplug a sensor and force the pcm to set a code? To check for codes, at the least, you need an obd2 code reader.
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Thursday, July 18th, 2019 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)

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