Engine will crank but not start up?

The purple wire with white tracer, should have a pulse, on and off signal, with the engine cranking. The white wire also.

A dmm with a tack or duty cycle or dwell setting will react to a pulse. If your just looking at voltage, I'm not sure what it would show.

You may have to check the cam sensor, I believe that is a hall switch, three wires, voltage, ground, signal. The brown wire with the white tracer, should be the signal wire, the other two are voltage and ground. If I'm testing circuits that go to the computer, I try to use a led testlite. I try not to plug or unplug sensors with the key on. You can unplug the cam sensor connector, turn on the key, use the testlite between the voltage and ground terminal, see if you get a lite? If you do, turn the key off, plug in the connector, crank the engine, backprobe the signal wire, brown with a white tracer, see if there is a signal?

The cam signal and the 7X may have to be in sync, your starting to get into issues, that, at the very least, you need a good scanner.

A scanner will show live engine data plus trouble codes, a code reader won't show live engine data.

I've always thought for some manufacturers to call a code reader, a scanner, misrepresented the instrument. I'm not trying to argue the point, people can call it, what ever they want.

Live engine data will show an rpm signal with the vehicle cranking, the rpm signal comes from the crank sensor. A good scanner will show if there is a signal from the crank sensors and cam sensor, plus alot more information.

The way I see it, if the ignition module is good and you have B+ and ground to the module and there is a signal from the crank sensor that plugs into the module, there should be spark at the plugs while cranking.

I've seen plenty of times when a code should set, but, never did. Because you can't check for an rpm signal, I'm not sure where to go from here? You might be able to trick the ignition module by using a testlite connected to B+ and tickle the A&C crank sensor terminals alternately at the ignition module cavity for the crank sensor plug. You need a spark tester, I guess a known good spark plug would work, just pull a plug boot, stick the plug in the boot, lay metal park of plug against metal part of engine, turn on the key, tickle the terminals already mentioned, see if you can induce a spark at the test plug.

I just wanted to add, test for spark with the multiwire connector loose from the ignition module. If you don't feel comfortable testing, then don't.

Welcome to the forum. I'd have to visually check for spark at the plugs. It might be a pain to do with your system, but, still possible. I'd also want to know if injector for cylinder number 1, is working. As far as the cam sensor, I'd check reference, ground and signal. You may need to do an ohms test on the crank sensor wire harness. Also, use a gage and check fuel pressure.

Hi there,

if you have severely overheated the engine the piston rings may have lost tension and you have low compressions, start with a compression test, also check for fuel pressure, spark & injector pulse, do this and report back your findings.

Mark (mhpautos)

Good evening,

When it does not start, you will need to check for fuel pressure and spark.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

One of them is missing and need to see which one. it could be a fuel pump, ignition module, crank sensor or PCM.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Roy

The filter will not change the pressure. it has a bypass in the filter itself.

if the pressure is low, it is the fuel pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Roy

That is correct. The picture is for your car.

Roy

procedure

1. Remove the fuel tank (4).

IMPORTANT:
The modular fuel sender assembly may spring up from position.
When removing the modular fuel sender assembly from the fuel tank, be aware that the reservoir bucket is full of fuel. The reservoir must be tipped slightly during removal to avoid damage to the float. Discard the fuel sender seal and replace the seal with a new one.
Carefully discard the reservoir fuel into an approved container.

2. Press down and rotate the cam lock ring (1) until free of the fuel sender retaining tabs.
3. Remove the modular fuel sender assembly.
4. Remove the fuel level sensor.