Car cranks but does not start and run?

Welcome to 2CarPros.

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

If it started with starting fluid, then it is a fuel related issue. With that, you need to check the fuel pressure to see what is going on. It could be low, or the pump itself may be just going bad.

Here is a link to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Most parts stores will lend / rent you the fuel pressure gauge.

Here are the manufacturer's specs for fuel pressure specific to your vehicle:

Fuel Pressure .................... 58 psi ± 2 psi

If you find the pump is bad, here are the directions for replacement. The bad news is the tank needs removed to access the pump. I will provide the directions for both tank removal and pump removal.

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FUEL TANK REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL

pic 1

1. Loosen clamp (9) and disconnect rubber fill hose (3) at tank fitting (7).

pic 2

2. At rear of tank, disconnect fuel pump module electrical jumper connector (5) from body connector (6).
3. At rear of tank, disconnect EVAP lines (2) and (3) from lines (1) and (4).
4. At front of tank, disconnect fuel and EVAP lines (9) and (10) from lines (11) and (12).
5. Support tank with a hydraulic jack.

pic 3

6. Remove bolts (1) and (2) at right side of fuel tank.
7. Remove bolts (3) at left side of fuel tank.
8. Lower tank for removal.
9. If fuel tank is to be replaced, remove fuel pump module from tank. Refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation procedures.

INSTALLATION

pic 4

1. If fuel tank is to be replaced, install fuel pump module into tank. Refer to Fuel Pump Module Removal/Installation procedures.
2. Position fuel tank to hydraulic jack.
3. Raise tank until positioned to body.
4. Install and tighten bolts (1) (2) and (3). Refer to Torque Specifications.

pic 5

5. Remove hydraulic jack.
6. Connect EVAP, ORVR, fuel and NVLD lines at front and rear of tank.
7. Connect fuel pump module electrical jumper connector (5) to body connector (6).

pic 6

8. Connect rubber fill hose (3) to tank fitting (7) and tighten clamp (9).
9. Lower vehicle.
10. Fill fuel tank with fuel.
11. Start engine and check for fuel leaks near top of module.

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To access the pump, the fuel pump module needs removed.

FUEL PUMP MODULE
REMOVAL

WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF). BEFORE SERVICING THE FUEL PUMP MODULE, THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED.

pic 7

1. Drain and remove fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Removal/Installation.
2. Note rotational position of module before attempting removal. An indexing arrow is located on top of module for this purpose.
3. Position Special Tool 9340 (3) into notches on outside edge of lockring (5).
4. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker bar (1) to tool 9340 (3).
5. Rotate breaker bar counter-clockwise to remove lockring.
6. Remove lockring. The module will spring up slightly when lockring is removed.
7. Remove module from fuel tank. Be careful not to bend float arm while removing.

INSTALLATION

CAUTION: Whenever the fuel pump module is serviced, the rubber seal (gasket) must be replaced.

pic 8

1. Using a new seal (gasket), position fuel pump module into opening in fuel tank.
2. Position lockring (5) over top of fuel pump module.
3. Rotate module until embossed alignment arrow points to center alignment mark. This step must be performed to prevent float from contacting side of fuel tank. Also be sure fuel fitting on top of pump module is pointed to drivers side of vehicle.
4. Install Special Tool 9340 (3) to lockring.
5. Install 1/2 inch drive breaker (1) into Special Tool 9340 (3).
6. Tighten lockring (clockwise) until all seven notches have engaged.
7. Install fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Removal/ Installation.

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Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

First eliminate all vacuum or air leaks in the system. You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

P0505 †Idle Control System Malfunction
P0158 †Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0455 †Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

None of these codes will prevent the engine from starting. Also, fault codes never say to replace parts. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis.

If the engine runs normally for about two seconds, then stalls, it is in theft mode. Unlock the front doors with the key or use the remote key fob to turn the system off.

Get a second opinion if you dont believe them.

Anything can happen at anytime no matter when you had it serviced.

Pricing is about right. I would get another opinion.

Roy

They do not have to come on for a computer failure. Most of the time, it is a software failure and will not code. Unfortunately, there is no warning for that

Roy

Good morning.

Does the pump run while installed in the truck?

Did you verify power to the fuel pump?

I attached a diagram for you to view. Check both fuses listed for power on both sides. Then you need to test for power at the relay.

Roy

The ignition system is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM).
The ignition system consists of:
†Spark Plugs
†Ignition Coil(s)
†Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
†Crankshaft Position Sensor
†Camshaft Position Sensor
†The MAP, TPS, IAC and ECT also have an effect on the control of the ignition system.

If it is confirmed that there are no sparks, then you need to go down the list and check those.

Was anything done prior to this occurring and have you tried to retrieve for trouble codes?

Hello, I'm Danny.

Yes, I would start first with a fuel pressure test.If you don't have access to a tester most auto parts store have a tool loaner program and will rent you one.Here is a tutorial showing what is involved.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Your Jeeps fuel pressure should be 45-55 p.s.i. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

Hold on. We need to diagnose this. You've seen that throwing random parts at it is the most expensive and least effective way to solve this. If the starter is cranking the engine at the right speed, you know that is okay. The alternator doesn't do anything until it is spinning from the running engine, so forget that. We know all the spark plugs aren't going to fail at the same time. One bad one would cause a misfire but the engine would still idle at the proper speed.

Before we go any further, you should be aware of a new variable you added so it doesn't cause you to get "wrapped around the axle" with confusion. When you disconnected the battery, memory power was lost to the Engine Computer. All the other fuel trim numbers and sensor data will be relearned automatically as soon as the engine starts running, except for " minimum throttle". That requires a very specific set of conditions for the relearn to take place, and until that occurs, idle speed will be too low. The engine may not even start and run unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". You won't get the nice "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm at start-up, and it will tend to stall at stop signs. Once everything else is solved, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals. At that point the computer will know when it has to be in control of idle speed.

The second problem with disconnecting the battery is that erased any diagnostic fault codes in the Engine Computer, so that valuable information was lost. You can try reading them again, but for the two sensors related to this problem, fault codes often do not set just from cranking the engine. They typically need more time to for a defect to be detected, as in when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. The point is we can't assume anything just because certain fault codes are not currently set.

For a 2004 model, you should still be able to read the fault codes yourself by cycling the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds, leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. You can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you.

The next concern is the air gap is critical for the new crankshaft position sensor. A new one will have either a thick paper spacer glued to the end, or a thin plastic rib molded on the end to set that gap. When the paper spacer is used, it slides off and is lost the first time you start the engine, but its job is done by that time. If you pull it out and reinstall it later, you need to use a new spacer. If you're installing a used sensor with the plastic rib, it has worn partially away, so you need to cut the remaining part of that rib off, then use a paper spacer. If the replacement crank sensor was new, it should be okay, but if you installed a used one, and pushed it in as far as it would go, it likely got broken from the flywheel hitting it.

If there are no fault codes set related to the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor, you'll need a scanner to view live data and see if the signals are showing up from them during cranking. I have a Chrysler DRB3 for all of my vehicles. That one lists each sensor with a "No" or "Present" to show the signal status. If one remains on "No", that is the circuit that needs to be diagnosed. About half the time the sensor itself is defective. There can also be wiring and connector terminal problems to check for.

Be aware too that both of these sensors commonly fail on all car brands by becoming heat-sensitive, then they work again after cooling down for about an hour. The typical observation is the engine runs fine as long as you're driving and natural air flow keeps them cool. When you stop a hot engine for a short time, as in when stopping for gas, engine heat migrates up to the sensor causing one to fail. Hopefully you'll get a diagnostic fault code directing you to the suspect sensor, but when there are no codes, the scanner becomes almost a necessity.

Let me know if you find any fault codes, then we'll continue on.

OK Feller!

I may or may not be able to help you all the way thru this

Buuuuut, I will try.

Others will jump in, and help if I get hung up!

Just to expedite things, things you will be asked regardless, by any one else!

Generally the "Whining" is me, if mine will not start!

So let's ELABORATE on stuff!----We like every factor thrown out at once as it will steer us in the correct direction and REALLY SPEED THINGS UP!

Recent problems--repairs--HISTORY, leading to this?

What's been done or tried THUS FAR. Down to, wiping your fingerprints off of the hood!

Is it turning over?

Will it run at all?

At what point does the backfiring occur?

Could the noise be coming from the starter area. Hung up in flywheel and won't come out. Sound location will help greatly.

Is is a Whirrrrrrrrrrrr! Or a Grind and then a Whirrrrrrr?

Stuff you provide really helps out.

You are our EYES-EARS-HANDS

The Medic