A/C problems?

Hey,

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out on the site whenever it can add information that will help.

Cheers, Ken

Hey CADELANEY,

It sounds like you have a blend door actuator that has failed. Here is a guide that will help you get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Let me know what you find,

Best, Ken

Hard do say without knowing what the pressure readings are when you are giving it gas.

It could be the pressures are wrong from having too much or too low of freon.

Or the computer thinks that you are going to WOT and shutting off the compressor.

The A/C will not work with codes in the computer, it goes to economy, your leak is probably the evaporator, common leak point on caddies, if it is low it will set a code.

Your stalling is probably crank sensors.

Scan codes, push off and warmer on the heater controls, with the key in the on position, write them down and post them here for me.

PCM codes is what you want, and ACM is your A/C code.

The PCM 1599 is a stall code replace your crank sensors, a relearn will have to be done at the dealer.

The other PCM codes are

603 is PCM reset done.
1527 is transmission range switch.

The ACM needs reset to allow A/C to run
and be charged up.

Reset all codes, after you scan code go to the three buttons up by IP and one of those will reset codes two of them will do nothing while in diag mode.

With dual climate control, you have two blend air doors that determine cabin temperature. Most likely, one of the blend air doors is not working or is stuck.

Suspect air -mix valve actuator
disconnect actuator and check blend door
if need to replace the actuator this is the steps needed

AIR-MIX VALVE ACTUATOR(S)
Removal & Installation
Remove glove box.
Unsnap rod from plastic retainer on actuator arm. Remove actuator mounting screws.
Disconnect electrical connector. Remove actuator. Check air-mix door for free travel.
To install, reverse removal procedure. If an actuator has been replaced, actuator needs to be recalibrated for proper travel. To recalibrate actuator, cycle ignition switch to ON position for 3 minutes.

Unless you have a hard fault that is causing it to default to econ, you can clear codes. First press off and warmer together. It will display codes on the info center. Let it run through the codes until it displays PCM/ECM, press fan down until it reads ACM? And press fan up. It should display ACM CODES. Press fan down until it reads ACM CLEAR CODES, and press fan up. Cycle the key and see if auto can be selected, and the compressor engages. If it reroutes back to econ, you have a hard fault. Run the diagnostics again and report what ACM code you have set.

The two components in the liquid line are temperature sensors, they are 5-volt sensors, and yes there is an orifice tube in between them.

The fact that it is defaulting to econ, is a result of potentially false low refrigerant detection. The reason I say potentially, is a faulty switch or sensor can make the system think it is low, when actually it is not. You said static pressure was 120, at what ambient(outside) temperature were you at. If you were in warm ambient, the pressure could be that high in a low system.

Do this, press 'off' and 'warmer' together on the climate panel with key on until all the segments light and release. You just entered diagnostics and codes should display, you are concerned with ACM codes.

You can have two possible codes, a low and a very low. Not sure, but I think b1347/b1348 are the codes. If you push fan down, the dic should read 'PCM?'. Scroll with fan down until you reach 'ACM?' (Or ACP) and push fan up. You will open the ACM possibilities to read data, clear codes, etc. Display clear codes, after you've read and recorded them, and push fan up. Codes cleared, cycle key, and you should have compressor operation, at least for a short time.

With manifold gauges installed, watch your low side pressure, and cycle time. If the pressure drops rather rapidly, and the compressor cycles rapidly, it is low on refrigerant.

If your actually having to add coolant, then there is a leak somewhere. You just have to find it. You will have to pressure test the cooling system to find it.