No longer responds to key fob command to open

June 14, 2022

Joe,

Here is a postscript, since the edit window on the previous post had expired, and I could not simply attach this item.

The latest OBD2 code scan of System reveals codes P1404 and P0442, which does not seem related to a non-start situation.

June 15, 2022

Joe, I appreciate your staying with me on this mini-ordeal.

Here is the latest--

1. Fuel filter-- I left this alone, for now, lest I force something and compound my problems. The fuel line-to-fuel filter nut still resists and can be loosened by only the right flare nut wrench. I continue periodic applications of Liquid Wrench.

2. Starting fluid test-- Even before receiving your message (thank you!), I had located the air filter and its large hose clamp, which I was able to loosen enough to permit a full jet of starter fluid. As you advised, I should have somebody floor the accelerator pedal during start to open the throttle to the starter fluid. For better understanding, exactly what will a successful start and brief run with starting fluid indicate? The fuel pump remains suspect-- doesn't the starting fluid operation simply bypass the fuel pump? If so, how to test the fuel pump itself?

3. Rather than use a length of wire to show a sparking ignition module-to-ground connection, I bought an inexpensive "spark plug tester'. The tester connects the OEM spark plug wire to a bright incandescent bulb, which then connects to the spark plug The advantage is that any ignition current malfunction will show up immediately as the bulb flashes.

Joe, as I mentioned earlier, I have located the MaxiFuse for the power windows, with its fuse block labeled "30 CB PWR WDO / S/R" That MaxiFuse is green plastic, but with an aluminum cap. Not only does the cap lack two fuse test points, but half of the cap is painted green, with the lower half left silver. The two fuse block insertion holes for this MaxiFuse (as best I could see in the bright sunlight) are small, round and spaced at either end of the fuse flock opening. Since the fuse cap has no test connection points, I plan to remove the fuse tomorrow with a direct tug from a pair of needle-nose pliers, and test continuity. Do you recommend I simply replace this MaxiFuse, as the best test of a solid connection? If I replace this MaxiFuse with a 30A "MaxiFuse" from a local auto supply store (but without the special aluminum cap (half painted green)), will that be appropriate? If I can extract the original fuse, I can send you a photo of the entire fuse.

Joe,

My email indicates you sent a reply, but nothing has appeared here, yet. Friday, I hope to have information on the (1) ignition spark and (2) attempted start with starting fluid (while another person floors the accelerator pedal).

I got that one, Joe.
Please resend your message that I missed.
I am on my way to test the ignition spark and starting fluid and will let you know what happened.

BG

Friday, June 17 @ 12:25pm

My spark plug tester (described above) flashes, and the engine starts briefly with starting fluid, then stalls.
Tomorrow, I'll try to replace the fuel filter.
Joe, I have not heard from you since June 15.
BG

Joe,
Saturday, June 18, I found the cause of the problem.

The fuel filter was impossible to remove from ground level clearance but elevating the fuel filter side of the car was also very risky, since the surrounding soft grass was unstable.
As it turns out, a (new) friend showed up with an old posted message from a GM/Buick website describing severe corrosion on the Buick's negative buss, and its symptoms-- exactly my own. Removing all the plastic externals, we were able to see the buss connector and about four wires attached to it by a friction fit, one of them black and thick. The negative buss plate, itself, was not badly corroded, but we cleaned it with solvent and rubbed it with sandpaper until it was bright and shiny. Reinserting the buss plate into its plastic connector, we realized cleaning the female wire receptacles in the buss connector of all corrosion would be impossible, so we cut the thick, black wire to the connector, trimmed insulation from its end, and soldered that conductor to the bare-metal portion protruding from the negative buss plastic connector.
On switching the ignition ON, the power windows operated, and the car was able to start. On switching the ignition to "start", the car immediately started.
Obviously, the black, thick wire was the fuel pump ground wire, and resurfacing the negative buss contact plate and soldering the wire in place completed the power circuit to the fuel pump. We applied dielectric grease to the metal plate, for good measure.
* Did you ever find out why your first message of June 15 never reached me? I got your second message, and requested you re-send the previous/first message, but that did not arrive, either.

Thank you for your help, Joe. You walked me through most of the diagnosis. As you can read above, the process you and I followed was methodical, thorough, logical and cannot be faulted.
Although the friend with the corrosion theory turned out to be correct, it was a lucky find, which represented a minor portion of the possibilities.
In any case, soon I hope to reprogram the key fob. The fob seems functional when I stand next to the car but cannot operate more than a few feet distance.
Again, many thanks.

Joe, I did check the battery, but it would not hurt to check it again. Will let you know.

RE: Key fob erratic/weak behavior--
Today was productive-- discovered the key fob has much greater range when first used for daily activity. After at least 12 hours "rest", the 3V lithium button battery is noticeably more powerful/greater range.
Tomorrow, I'll purchase a new 3V button cell of the same type, and verify the battery returns all functions to normal.

* Joe, I am preparing the Buick 98 to travel about 300 miles for a family visit. In checking all the major systems, I found the radiator level somewhat low, and the coolant reservoir was completely empty. I refilled the reservoir with 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water (to the "Full Cool") level, and while the engine was cool, I opened the radiator cap, and added about one inch of coolant, filling to within one inch of the filler neck.
While that should take care of a matter of simple neglect in checking the radiator, it does mean the engine may have run hotter than I realized, but without sending a Temperature warning.
With that in mind, I have a Buick engine infamous for its OEM plastic intake plenum, prone to melting from a hot EGR pipe. Aside from my radiator maintenance, is there any reliable way to keep plenum/EGR temperatures as cool as possible? In that regard, I have "solved" a recent Check Engine light problem by carefully tightening the gas cap, and that seems to work, for now.
The oil dipstick shows no water contamination, but is there another check I can make besides a nervous glance at the dipstick? I plan to replace the OEM intake plenum with the Dorman modified plenum and upper gasket replacement (said to eliminate the plenum meltdown problem).

* If you would rather, I create a new ticket for each of my separate Buick 98 concerns, I'll be glad to do that.

Joe, I found an apparent cause of the key fob issue. Although the original battery tested 3.X V on VOM, it faded quickly under transmitter load.
My first clue was the original battery had a much better response in the morning, after a night of non-use. The more I used the fob, the more quickly the normal response disappeared.
Today, I replaced the fading original battery with a new battery, and this time, the replacement battery restored operation to normal. The previous time I tried replacement, the new replacement had not improved response.
As an example of how important diagnosis by verified conditions can be, one of the two "new" button 2032 batteries was only 1.5V. And this was on opening a sealed package!

Joe,

What is your preference between non-ethanol and ethanol gas for the Buick 98 Le Sabre 3.8L engine? There is concern that the extra alcohol in ethanol gas simply attracts more moisture, and especially when a car's gas tank is partially empty (1/2 to 3/4 full). Despite the Evaporative Emission Control system, moisture can be pulled from the atmosphere.