Intake air control valve?

Yes, you could have a leak at the TB. Interestingly, I have even see the leak be at the throttle plate where it attaches on the throttle body. As far as the ECT, yes it could be failing as well and what you described is totally possible.

The idea of the codes you have point to an issue with the crank sensor. I don't know if you're up for it, take a look through this diagnostic flow chart and see if it helps. The attached pics correlate with the directions. There was one pic I had to break into three parts so you could follow and read it, but I made sure to overlap it so you can use it.
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1997 Nissan-Datsun Truck D21 Hardbody XE 2WD L4-2389cc 2.4L SOHC MFI (KA24E)
P0335
Vehicle ALL Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection P Code Charts P0335
P0335

pic 1

pic 2

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft position sensor (OBD) is located on the transmission housing facing the gear teeth (cogs) of the flywheel or drive plate. It detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
The sensor consists of a permanent magnet, core and coil.
When the engine is running, the high and low pans of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change.
The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change.
Due to the changing magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes.
The ECM receives the voltage signal and detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
This sensor is not used to control the engine system. It is used only for the on board diagnosis of misfire.

Pic 3

ECM TERMINALS AND REFERENCE VALUE
Specification data are reference values and are measured between each terminal and (43) (ECCS ground).

Pic 4
ON BOARD DIAGNOSIS LOGIC

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE
With CONSULT

pic 5

(1)Turn ignition switch "ON" and select "DATA MONITOR" mode with CONSULT.
(2)Start engine and run it for at least 10 seconds at idle speed.

OR

With GST
(1)Start engine and run it for at least 10 seconds at idle speed.
(2)Select "MODE 7" with GST.

OR

NO TOOLS
(1)Start engine and run it for at least 10 seconds at idle speed.
(2)Turn ignition switch "OFF", wait at least 7 seconds and then turn "ON".
(3)Perform "Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results)" with ECM.

EC-CKPS-01 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS) (OBD) (DTC P0335)

pic 6

WIRING DIAGRAM

pic 7, 8, 9

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

COMPONENT INSPECTION
Crankshaft position sensor (OBD)
1. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (OBD) harness connector.
2. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
3. Remove the sensor.

Pic 10

4. Visually check the sensor for chipping.

Pic 11

5. Check resistance as shown in the figure.

Resistance: Approximately 166.5 - 203.5 ohms at 20°C (68°F)

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Let me know if you can do this.

Take care,
Joe

Not a problem. It's been really cold here too, so I don't blame you a bit. If you have the chance to perform the test, let me know the results.

Take care and keep warm.

Joe

Yes, you can test it that way. However, make sure the battery is disconnected both before unplugging the PCM and plugging it back in. Once you finish the test, reinstall the connector and then connect the battery.

In most cases, the crank sensor will set a code. However, under some conditions, it won't. Take a look through this link. Start at paragraph three.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know.

Take care.

Joe

Not a problem. Take care and hope you're still feeling better.

Joe

Hi,

Anything is possible. I don't remember if I already asked, but if you can get your hands on a live data scanner and let me know what both the short term and long term fuel trims, I could answer you about the injector with more certainty.

Hi,

The fuel trims are done when it is warmed up. When the engine is cold, it runs in what is called an open loop. Basically, fuel mixtures are predetermined by the computer. Once the oxygen sensors start to vary in voltage, the system goes into a closed loop. That is when the fuel trims become relevant.

I noted you indicated temperature. Here is what I can tell you: They are not far off. The idea that they are negative numbers indicate the computer is trying to lean the fuel mixture, but with the readings present, it shouldn't be causing the problem. In a perfect world, the STFT should be 0. Your readings are close enough to it and wouldn't cause an issue. Like you, I am starting to think it may be electrical and not fuel related. The distributor you have, is it new or known to be good?

Joe