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Intake air control valve?

Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 NISSAN TRUCK
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 177,000 MILES
When replacing the IACV (intake air control valve) are one of the wires ground and the other one the hot wire?
The colors of the wires for my replacement valve were both black. I'm not sure if it matters which one goes where. If it does tell me. My truck is still occasionally acting up like it did before I replaced this valve. I had the code P0505 before I replaced this valve. Thank you
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Sunday, January 12th, 2020 AT 1:06 PM

165 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

Take a look at the pics. First, I have a pic of the harness. There are two pins used of the four. Pin 2 should have battery voltage with the key on. That should be the black and white wire from the ignition. The other wire goes to pin 4.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe
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Sunday, January 12th, 2020 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
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I'm getting 12 volts to the black/white wire at the no. 2 pin but the aftermarket IACV has both wires that are the color of black so I don't know if one of them is suppose to be a hot wire and theother one a ground wire but my truck is doing the same thing, when the motor warms up it wants to drop the idling at times and sometimes quit unless I catch it and press the gas pedal and it will start back running right for maybe a few minutes or so and that varies on if it will run or not. When my truck is cold it runs great. What's got me confused is the wire colors on the new after market IACV. Does it matter which wire goes to the b/w connection. Let me know. Thank you
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Wednesday, January 15th, 2020 AT 3:14 PM
Tiny
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Do you have access to a live data scanner? If you do, check the engine coolant temp sensor's reading when the engine is cold and then again warm. Also, note if any black smoke is coming from the exhaust.

Let me know.
Joe
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Thursday, January 16th, 2020 AT 4:10 PM
Tiny
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I have an Autoxray 7000 scanner and I will connect it tomorrow and see what it shows me on the temperature cold and then when it gets to normal operating temperature and let you know.
I have replaced the IACV-AAC and the part that has wax in it that is used to keep the idling up when it is cold, then when the wax melts it allows the idling to come down, both of these are new. The IACV-AAC is an aftermarket and the wax part is directly from Nissan.
My truck done a little better today but it's still not right.
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Thursday, January 16th, 2020 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
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I connected the Autoxray 7000 scanner this morning & the engine temp. Was roughly 46 degrees. When I started it it ran alright for a few minutes then it wanting to quit while the motor was cold which it usually waits until motor warms up to a certain degree. It started running okay until it got to 172 degrees and acted up then when it got to 178 degrees it done it again, I pat the gas when this happens and it runs good for a while, at 180 degrees it acted up, then I press gas pedal, then at 183 degrees it started to quit and black smoke came from exhaust, it only got to roughly 185 degrees and it ran for 30 minutes or maybe little longer. Could one of the injectors be flooding out? I don't have any check engine codes.
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Friday, January 17th, 2020 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
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It seems to miss a little bit when I'm driving.
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Friday, January 17th, 2020 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
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Your answers are being sent to the spam folder. How do I correct that?
I have to go spam to find them.
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Friday, January 17th, 2020 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
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I am going to put a coolant temperature senosr on it and see what happens on the truck. What do you think about that?
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Friday, January 17th, 2020 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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If the coolant temperature sensor was accurate as far as when cold (was the same as outside temp) and then seemed to follow correctly as the engine warmed up, chances are it's okay.

If you were seeing black smoke, that indicates a rich fuel mixture. Have you checked fuel pressure to make sure the regulator is working?

Here is a link that shows in general how to test fuel pressure. I attached a picture of the regulator location. Lets do this to see if this is the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions for testing specific to your vehicle. The remaining pictures correlate with the directions. Also, the specifications are listed in the directions.

_______________________________________

1997 Nissan-Datsun Truck D21 Hardbody XE 2WD L4-2389cc 2.4L SOHC MFI (KA24E)
Fuel Pressure Check
Vehicle Powertrain Management Service and Repair Procedures Fuel Pressure Check
FUEL PRESSURE CHECK
PROCEDURE

pic 2

a. When reconnecting fuel line, always use new clamps.
b. Make sure that clamp screw does not contact adjacent parts.
c. Use a torque driver to tighten clamps.
d. Use Pressure Gauge to check fuel pressure.
1. Release fuel pressure to zero.
2. Disconnect fuel hose between fuel filter and fuel tube (engine side).

pic 3

3. Install pressure gauge between fuel filter and fuel tube.
4. Start engine and check for fuel leakage.

pic 4

5. Read the indication of fuel pressure gauge.

At idling: Approximately 235 kPa (2.4 kg/sq. cm, 34 psi)

A few seconds after ignition switch is turned OFF to ON:
Approximately 294 kPa (3.0 kg/sq. cm, 43 psi)

6. Stop engine and disconnect fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose from intake manifold.

pic 5

7. Plug intake manifold with a rubber cap.
8. Connect variable vacuum source to fuel pressure regulator.
9. Start engine and read indication of fuel pressure gauge as vacuum is changed.
Fuel pressure should decrease as vacuum increases. If results are unsatisfactory, replace fuel pressure regulator.

_______________________________________

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Friday, January 17th, 2020 AT 9:19 PM
Tiny
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It might be a few days before I get back to you, not sure yet but just be patient.
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 7:29 AM
Tiny
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I connected my fuel pressure gauge and the reading was 34 psi and I removed the vacuum hose from the fuel pump regulator and the pressure increased to ( plugged vacuum line ) roughly 44 psi and reconnected everything and the pressure went back to 34 psi.
The other day I put a small bottle of the gas treatment for maybe water in the gas, do you think that maybe my problem might be in the gas, possibly?
I don't have a check engine light on or anything like that.
I will need to find my vacuum pump to do the step you advised me to do on the fuel pump regulator. It might be a few days before I find it, it's raining here now and makes things harder. The truck done better today than it has been doing.
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
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I've got one of those fuel pump regulators ordered just in case, might need it down the road if I don't need it now.
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 1:25 PM
Tiny
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The pressure sounds perfect. Do me a favor. I want you to check the crankshaft position sensor. Here are the directions. The attached pics correlate with the directions. Interestingly, under certain conditions, the sensor can cause misfire, stalling, no start and so on without setting a code.

___________________________

1997 Nissan-Datsun Truck D21 Hardbody XE 2WD L4-2389cc 2.4L SOHC MFI (KA24E)
Component Testing Procedure
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Crankshaft Position Sensor Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Component Testing Procedure
COMPONENT TESTING PROCEDURE
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Crankshaft position sensor (OBD)
1. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (OBD) harness connector.
2. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
3. Remove the sensor.

Pic 1

4. Visually check the sensor for chipping.

Pic 2

5. Check resistance as shown in the figure.

Resistance: Approximately 166.5 - 203.5 ohms at 20°C (68°F)

___________________________

Let me know if you have a chance to do that.
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
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I'll do that, I have knowledge on using multi-meters and other things relating to that.
I'll see how the weather is tomorrow and see what I can do, that sensor sits behind the motor in front of the transmission near the top, I had one put on it one time a few years. Back. Thanks
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Exactly, that's the one. Please let me know what you find. Also, can you confirm something for me. Originally, you listed this as a 2.0L. They only made it with a 2.4L. I am using info for that. Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 6:03 PM
Tiny
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It's a 2.4L, I saw that and was going to correct but forgot to.
I had a friend to put that sensor on for me, it was hard to get to but I will get it checked and give you the results depending on how the weather is, just got over the flu. Thanks for your help
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 6:15 PM
Tiny
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In this youtube video is the Wax part I put on it new fro Nissan, if you have time to watch it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLXBuNvqjAI
Hopefully you can see it.
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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I watched it. It's been a long time, but I did the same years ago. The flu is out of control this year. I hope you're feeling better.

Take care and let me know the results.

Joe
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Saturday, January 18th, 2020 AT 8:38 PM
Tiny
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Wouldn't I get a check engine light with one of these codes if my crank sensor was bad?
These are codes are related to my truck:
P0335, p0337, p0338 and p0339.
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Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 6:23 AM
Tiny
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P0335 = Crankshaft position sensor " A " circuit
P0337 = CPS "A " circuit low input
P0338 = CPS " A ' circuit high input
P0339 = CPS " A " circuit intermittent
This is some information I found
What are your thoughts on this, Let me know. Thanks
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Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 6:36 AM

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