Anti-Theft System plus oddities?

Tiny
DSCHWINDT
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD MUSTANG
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 235,000 MILES
I will list the issues first and then go into detail:

1. Car turns over but doesn't start
2. Odometer reads only as dashes (e.G. )
3. There is no OBD communication when trying to connect to the computer
4. When the key is turned to the ON position, a groaning sound comes from the passenger side of the vehicle. It sounds like it is coming from the front passenger wheel-well area.
5. When no key is inserted, the theft light blinks normally, every couple seconds. When I insert a key and turn it to the ON position, the theft light blinks rapidly.

Now, I will list the solutions I have attempted:

1. I checked the battery and it is healthy
2. A locksmith checked my key to ensure the chip was functioning
3. I tried every online PATS reset method that I could find. This, notably, has worked to fix this problem in the past (at least the no-start + groaning sound problem. I cannot remember if the odometer read dashes and I did not check the OBD connection the last couple times this problem occurred.) So, the PATS reset methods have worked to fix this problem 4-5 times over a few year stretch, but none of those methods works this time.


From what I have found online, it sounds like a problem with the immobilizer minus the groaning sound. I have not found anyone with the combination of issues I am having. This is all the information I can think to give you currently. Let me know if you need additional info. Thank you!
Saturday, September 21st, 2024 AT 3:41 PM

32 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, the groans are different, can I get a short video of the noise, you can upload it with your response. I would start by checking all of the fuses with the system on.

This guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

The fact that the milage is dashes and no obd2 connection is telling us the dash cluster might be bad which is common with these issues. Here are the fuse locations. If the fuses are all good, I would remove the cluster and send it in for testing/repairs. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Sunday, September 22nd, 2024 AT 10:49 AM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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I have been busy the last couple days, so I haven’t been able to test all the ideas you sent yet. I plan to try them out on Wednesday. I have checked several fuses that I thought might be the problem, but I will go ahead and check all the ones you recommended.

Do I have to send in the cluster for repairs or could I find one at a salvage yard to use?

When you say, †Check the fuses with the system on’ do you mean turn the key to the ON position and then test the fuses? If so, what is the reason for this?
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Monday, September 23rd, 2024 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Thanks for the video. Can you put your hand on where the noise is coming from? It sounds like a relay is shorting out, we must find out what is making the noise. For the fuse testing, it is to use a test light to see if the fuse is good and that is has power as well. Could it be the blower fan motor making the noise? Please let me know, I am interested.
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+1
Tuesday, September 24th, 2024 AT 12:24 PM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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This seems to be where the noise is coming from. The closeup photo is of the component that seems to be making the noise. When I touch it I feel a vibration, so it makes sense if the noise is also coming from it. Any idea what that component is?
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2024 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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So, I tested my fuses and most of the fuses lit up the tester bulb on both contacts of the fuse, and a few of the fuses didn't light up the bulb on either contact. Also, big development! When I went to test my fuses, I turned the key to the ON position, and everything was happening as usual for the first few seconds. Then I noticed the buzzing sound stopped. So, I tried turning the car on, and it started up and it ran for several minutes until I shut it off. This has happened in the past where the problem seemingly goes away for no reason. So, my problem is not fixed as nothing has changed to have caused a fix, but perhaps this new development will help us figure out the problem.
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2024 AT 5:06 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Okay, we are getting closer, the part that is making the noise is the constant control relay which houses the fuel pump and PCM power relays, I would try to get a replacement to see if that makes a difference. Here is a wiring diagram so you can see how it works and which wires to get for power and guide, this guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Thursday, September 26th, 2024 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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Here is a photo I took of the CCRM, and I noticed there is an electrical plug that is hanging loose and not connected to anything. I can't find anything that it could connect to. Any idea what this plug goes to, and could it be the source of the problem?

Also, thank you for the wiring diagram of the CCRM. I am guessing power should be present at pin 11 on the CCRM at all times, but what would cause the fuel pump/pcm power relays to switch over to pins 5 and 24 respectively? Is power supposed to be present at pins 5 and 24 once I turn the key to the ON position?
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Saturday, September 28th, 2024 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I don't see the images? Also, I had a thought that the engine to chassis ground could be bad or not connected. I would check the ground from the battery to the engine and then to the chassis. This must be a good connection or you will have strange problems like this.
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Sunday, September 29th, 2024 AT 9:40 AM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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I apologize. I guess I forgot to add the photo. Here it is.
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Sunday, September 29th, 2024 AT 10:51 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, this is it, which it looks like it could have water damage, what happens when you replace it, also did you check the grounds form the battery to the engine and chassis?
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Monday, September 30th, 2024 AT 9:38 AM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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I checked this ground, and it was very dirty so I cleaned it. Is this the correct ground you wanted me to check?

I disconnected the ground completely and turned the key to the On position, and the car reacted in a unique way (unlike the problem I’ve been having), so that makes me think the ground isn’t the problem unless that was the wrong ground I checked.
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Thursday, October 10th, 2024 AT 11:19 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes, that is the main ground, I would remove it and clean it with a wire brush, it should be clean metal to clean metal. Let me know what happens.
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Thursday, October 10th, 2024 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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Okay, I removed the ground and cleaned it well. I am still concerned about this connector in the photo though. Do you know the purpose of this connector and what it should be connected to?
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Saturday, October 12th, 2024 AT 8:25 AM
Tiny
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I found a replacement constant control relay at a salvage yard and replaced mine. The exact same problems are occurring including the buzzing sound coming from the new relay.

The relay is from a salvage yard, so it’s possible that this relay also is malfunctioning, but it seems unlikely they both have the exact same problem, yeah? Any ideas?
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Saturday, October 12th, 2024 AT 2:48 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I don't think the replacement is bad in the same way, it sounds more like a ground issue or something plugged into the CCRM is shorted. Let's unplug the CCMR and check the blk/wht wire for ground by using this guide. It must be unplugged to do the test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please go over this guide and get back to us.
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Sunday, October 13th, 2024 AT 9:14 AM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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I tested the ground on pins 15 and 18 (pin 15 is the black and white wire). Pin 18 ground is fine, but the black/white ground is not. Do I need to replace that wire or something?
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Thursday, October 17th, 2024 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Both black wires to the CCRM should be grounded. If not, run new grounds and try it to see what happens.
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Friday, October 18th, 2024 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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Alright, I ran a ground test on both ground pins (15 and 18) and both tested as a good ground. The problem remains the same though. Any other ideas?
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Saturday, October 19th, 2024 AT 2:31 PM
Tiny
DSCHWINDT
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I also ran some continuity checks from pin 15, and I confirmed continuity at the ground (red) by the headlight and also at a pin in the disconnect box (blue) close to the hood hinge. Not sure if that is helpful but thought I'd mention it.
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Saturday, October 19th, 2024 AT 2:42 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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You must have a power wire from the CCRM that is getting grounded or something is shorted out like the fuel pump. Lets unplug the engine computer and see if the noise goes away, you might have short fuel injector causing the issues. Here is the location. Check out the images (below). Let us know what you find.
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Sunday, October 20th, 2024 AT 10:03 AM

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