Cranks no start

1988-95: Use a scan tool, or 1. Short terminals of Check Engine connector or service connector (depending on model) with suitable jumper wire. Make the jumper connection between terminals E1 and TE1. Some Check Engine diagnostic connectors are round and are located under the instrument panel. Others are rectangular and are usually located in the engine compartment. 2. Turn the ignitiion ON. Trouble codes will be indicated by flashes of the Check Engine light. Count the flashes to determine the code. If more than one code is present, codes will be separated by a long pause. Codes will continue to repeat as long as the jumper connection remains in the diagnostic connector. NOTE: If the light flashes on and off 4 times a second, there are no codes. DRIVING TEST MODE When a fault is first detected, a code is temporarily stored in the computer's memory. If the same problem is detected again during a second trip, the Check Engine light will come on. In order for this mode to store codes, the ignition switch must be turned OFF between the first and the second test. 1. Make sure the battery voltage is at least 11 volts, the throttle is fully closed, the transmission is in neutral and all accessories are off. 2. Use a jumper wire to connect terminals E1 and TE2 on the diagnostic connector, then turn the ignition ON. The Check Engine lamp should illuminate. NOTE: Test mode may not be entered if terminals TE2 and El are shorted after ignition switch is turned ON 3. Start engine and drive vehicle at 10 mph or higher. If vehicle is not driven vehicle speed signal code 42 and 43 may be set. 4. Simulate driving conditions that originally set code (if possible). 5. Turn vehicle off, remove jumper wire. The rejump terminals E1 and TE1 to read any codes that were set during the test drive. HOW TO CLEAR CODES Disconnect the computer fuse for 10 seconds, or use a scan tool to clear codes.

Bad luck runs in three. Be careful!

Along with those two steps, check engine compression while all plugs are out!
https://www.2carpros.com/dia/how_to_check_compression.htm

First test. Put it in neutral, do not touch the clutch and see if it starts. If it does test the clutch start cancel switch.

Find the ignition switch harness. Look for the black wire with a yellow trace. Connect a test light to it. Turn the key on. You should have power. Now turn the key to start, the light should stay on. As you turn the key. If it does not the ignition switch is bad. If it does jumper the black/yellow wire to the black with red trace at pin two on the cancel switch. If it starts now while holding the clutch down, the cancel switch is bad.

Well you can double check the starter relay, If you jump from the White wire Pin 5 to the Black/White wire Pin 3 that runs to the starter does the engine crank? If yes, apply 12 volts to Black wire Pin 1 on the start relay and see if the engine turns over when you step on the clutch.
If both of those work the wire to the switch or the start contacts in the ignition switch have failed.
I added a wiring diagram below.

Block the vane flap wide open in the airflow meter and attempt to start -let me know