Car would not start.

Tiny
JAMIESMA
  • MEMBER
  • 2015 MAZDA 6
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 47,000 MILES
I purchased a 65 plate Mazda 6 2.2D SE-L at the end of April. After a month or so, the oil filter dropped out and poured the entire contents of the engine’s oil onto the floor. The car was driven in limp mode for a few meters like this but no more, so I am hoping it has nothing to do with the problems it has now. Then a few weeks ago the car would nott start. Had RAC come out who eventually got it started but could not find a cause. They reckoned it was most likely rollback and that sufficient pressure just needed building up to push the air through.

Thursday afternoon the SCBS Malfunction light came on. This has come on before then cleared when the car was restarted, so I carried on to my destination then restarted the car thinking it would be gone. Instead, the SCBS warning remained, but was also joined by a DSC malfunction and an engine system malfunction warning light. The next day I figured I would drive my partner to work (seventy five mile round trip), and call in to the dealer in the afternoon. On the way back, the warnings were joined by a PM Accumulation in DPF warning. I thought this was weird as the car is purely used for long distance driving, and at 150 miles a day I would have thought the DPF would regularly get warm enough to burn any soot off. But I followed the car’s warning, filled it up in case it was too low to force an active regeneration, got it warm then drove up and down the motorway a good few times keeping the revs high enough. Nothing worked though, it would not regenerate and now my car has been joined by a fifth warning, DPF Malfunction.

I do not seem to be getting many trouble codes through the EOBD port. P2118 keeps coming up, but seemingly nothing about the SCBS or DSC. For one brief moment I got a trouble code of P1260, probably because the engine had not been switched on for long, and P2458, but that has now disappeared. The car has manufacturer warranty being only two years old and 47,000 miles, but they will tell me it is DPF and not covered. Any ideas what is going on here, and why suddenly the car would have a cascade of so many warnings?
Saturday, August 26th, 2017 AT 8:47 AM

50 Replies

Tiny
JAMIESMA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thought I would update on here as it may end up helping someone else if they run into a similar issue. Called RAC out, they tried to force a regeneration at the roadside but the car would not do it, as the P2118 code is stopping it. P2118 relates to the throttle actuator, so that is why the SCBS and DSC warnings came on. It is also why the car has deactivated the cruise control. And as the car uses the throttle for the regen, it is not allowing it and hence it is now building up with soot.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 26th, 2017 AT 2:05 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,480 POSTS
Thanks for the update. Being a modern diesel with enough computer power to run a small country you would think they could at least spell out what the codes really mean.

Unfortunately we will not be getting the diesel in the US as it has failed EPA testing twice and has basically been cancelled until the next generation of six comes out or later. We only get the 2.5 petrol engine.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 26th, 2017 AT 11:34 PM
Tiny
JAKUB WU
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi, I bought 2016 Mazda 6 sport manual DIESEL on 9th December 2017. (1st reg end of March 2016)
On that day when I was about to drive out from dealer I got 3 warnings when they started the engine:
SCBS(F), DSC, and engine malfunction. They took the car to service quickly and I got it back after 30 minutes and they were claiming that everything is OK. Never told me what was wrong etc. I think I saw code P2118 just like you.
Anyway I took the car and got SCBS(F), DSC on 10th(Sunday) 12th(called dealer - steam etc) 21st (was flying out) 28th (temperature/steam) 29th (I need to call for inspection). It was always disappearing on engine restart or next day. Sometimes showing after whole day of work sometimes after 5 minutes, sometimes quicker. When called dealer they said it might be sensor temperature/steam etc. I decided to book inspection after new year and got 4th January available. In service they said they found lots of errors in the system memory and P2118! Which was just cleared in the past (has to be when I drove the car from dealer on 9yh). Also coolant level was WAY below Low (how?In serviced car 1 month ago?). Service topped it up and found no leak. !). Dealer never told me what they done to the car on 9th Dec. Service called them and they have nothing in records! Looks like clearly they masking tracks leading to them selling me faulty car. Mazda approved car was faulty and shouldn't be sold! Anyway I got later again SCBS(F), DSC on 4th. On 11th January 2018 I got SCBS(F), DSC and engine malfunction! Called for recovery. Awaiting inspection next week. The worst part is they will only check what mazda will tell them and follow the check tree so they cannot check valves and carbon build up for me. To be hones after what I read about it I dont want to have this car anymore. Issues from day1 and now driving courtesy car. Lets see what they will find on Wednesday/Thursday.
I would like to get my money back because they sold me car with errors so clearly its a violation of the deal that it has been inspected, was approved etc.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 13th, 2018 AT 6:48 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,480 POSTS
Good luck. The dealers all seem to have the same issues, "Hey this car is perfect and you will really love it, anything you find wrong will be taken care of immediately and we will do whatever is needed to make it right". So you look it over and buy the car.

Couple weeks pass and you have an issue so you call the "friendly dealer" who assured you things would be made right and they suddenly forget who you are and that they sold you the car !

One thing you can do, contact the regional Mazda representative and talk to them, or even step up to talking to the head office if needed.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 13th, 2018 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
JAMIESMA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Best of luck getting your Mazda fixed. In the end, mine went back to the local Mazda dealer for warranty repairs. A few days later I received a phone call telling me that the previous owner (Enterprise Rent-a-Car) hadn't serviced the car at the correct intervals and therefore the car had no warranty. I spent a week arguing with the head office of the (non-Mazda) dealer I bought the car from as they assured me that it had full warranty.

Eventually, the Mazda dealership spoke to Head Office who said they might to do the work under warranty anyway if I authorised them to take the engine apart to take pictures of the carbon build-up. Following this they agreed to do the work, which I believe ended up being a throttle actuator replacement, manifold replacement and an engine de-carb to remove the carbon build-up. This however, took around 6 weeks, and during the entire time I was repeatedly told that they were waiting on a part and not given an estimated completion date. I ended up speaking to Mazda Roadside Assistance through the number in the handbook, then asking them to put me through to a regional manager, who then liaised with the local dealership and got the work done.

TLDR: If you find your local dealer dragging their heels, make a complaint through Mazda head office who Mazda Roadside Assistance can put you through to. Mazda head office do not like it when one of their local dealerships don't meet their standards.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 13th, 2018 AT 9:04 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,696 POSTS
Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 16th, 2018 AT 10:47 AM
Tiny
JAKUB WU
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hello,

I dont remember how it really goes but:
They found issue with - Throttle Actuator Control (TAC)
Part has been replaced, it was not operating (closing?) Properly
I have asked is it due to carbon build-up etc? But they havent seen anything and TAC was not correctly positioned they said (how is that possible? After 2 years?)
Anyway (I dont remember exact words) SCBS(F), DSC were showing up because TAC is connected or belongs to the same cable/system(! Or something) to which traction control system (TCS) belongs so when TAC has an issue TSC might start throwing errors too.
Finally I saw SCBS(F) working in my car when tried as always drive under slowly opening barrier when getting out from work - IT IS NOT POSSIBLE anymore! Car is braking and beeping.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 20th, 2018 AT 3:46 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,696 POSTS
We need to codes that are present now, can you read them and get back to us?

Please follow this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 20th, 2018 AT 12:58 PM
Tiny
JAKUB WU
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Sorry for the late reply. I don't know those codes unfortunately. Later on at 26,000 miles I asked Mazda about carbon build up in my car and it was identified and cleaned. Since that moment no warning lights until May 2019 when they stared appearing and even the engine malfunction warning light which disappeared after 2 days somehow. Car was at around 55,000 miles. Recently at 62,000 got twice DPF sooth high level + SCBS front + DSC + engine malfunction when the car is constantly driven on motorways. I don't have the codes but it was again carbon build up which the dealer identified and cleaned free of charge again. So Mazda is aware of the issue and helpful. Next time I will see those lights I will think of carbon build up return.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,696 POSTS
Thanks for getting back to us. Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 11:22 AM
Tiny
MAE_MAE90
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 2008 MAZDA 6
  • 80,000 MILES
I have a 2008 mazda 6 and recently the check engine light came on. It acts like it doesn't want to start when I put gas in it and I have to push down the gas for it to start. Its starting to shake a little to its kind of loud when I speed up.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
Before you start monkeying with stuff!

See if you can make it down to the local popular auto parts store

they have portable scanners and they will be able to extract any codes your computer has generated (the reason the check engine light came on)normally this is a free service

the scanner will pick up a code(s) (stupid examples p0123, p0124)

sometimes the auto store will offer suggestions as to what might be wrong, some codes are obvious, others may be interpreted different ways in conjunction with you cars symptoms

you can "google" the codes, sorta go by the parts stores suggestions, or you can bring the "exact code numbers and letters" and the cars symptoms back here (not the suggestions), and maybe we can offer a solution too

imma jeep cj guy and respond better to them, if I am unable to offer advice, I will locate another feller here that may be more experienced with your vehicle----many will jump in on their own to help without me looking

depending on the problem this could be something simple and a ez diy repair. Hopefully it will be an inexpensive fix

waitin' for your response. Regardless of how you attack your issue

the medic
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAE_MAE90
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I took it to a auto zone and the scanner said I was getting to much oxygen to my fuel
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ANGLOBATIC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 MAZDA 6
  • 41,000 MILES
The harnes was ripped out by theives
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You need to get the harness repaired/replaced. The MIL should be indicating and that is because of missing wiring connections.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALREEDER09
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 MAZDA 6
  • 120,000 MILES
Car will not start. The engine is turning over, we checked the fuel line and the fuel is being pumped into the engine. We disconnected and reconnected the battery. I checked my fuel levels and everything is fine. I added a little oil to make sure there was plenty.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RONNIE BATTILLO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 MAZDA 6
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 126,000 MILES
Will not start when turning the ignition
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do below to determine if its a fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WAYNE SANUIK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 MAZDA 6
  • 100,000 MILES
The car runs perfect above 5 degrees. Below 5 the car will will turn over but not fire. Is this a computer problem. It's been checked by 2 mechanic's and no problem could be found. Is this a common problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, November 20th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links