Fuel Pressure

Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
When I checked it today, I checked it when it was cold after first starting and after the car warmed up and the idle slowed down to 800rpm. Both times the pressure was still around 84psi. Even when I put the car ingear and the rpm dropped another 100rpm, the pressure was still at 80psi.
Do you know exactly where the relay is and what it looks like?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Its on no.3 see pic


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_test_port_1.gif

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
It would appear that the fuel pump speed relay may be stuck on.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/139033_coil_10.jpg

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
I located the relay and I have attempted a few things to see if I would get any changes in the pressure.
1. I swapped the fuel pump relay with the fuel pump speed relay since they are the same part and there was no change in pressure.
2. I opened up the relay so I could bench test the relay to make sure it would switch between the 2 possible positions. It worked as it should.
3. I reinstalled it in the car while the cover was still off. I manually switched the relay while the car was running and the pressure went from 84psi while it was idling to 93psi-95psi when I forced the relay to the other position. I'm assuming this would shpw that it is not stuck open as I normally have not gotten a reading of 90+psi.

I also put my car on ramps so I could get under it to inspect the entire path of the fuel line. Everything appears normal. There are no kinks or other types of damage to the line that may be causing an obstruction.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
Can you check the voltage to the fuel pump on the gray wire while idling to see if there is the low voltage or the regular current of 14v. If there is 14v while idling with car running we will check for a short to power in the circuit, if the voltage is 9 volts then we need to find a restriction in possibly the fuel rail.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
Where do you mean to check the voltage? Should I check it directly by the fuel pump? It it accessible through the trunk?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
Right at the pump. Its accessable under the car. The harness goes on top of tank and I think it enters from the rear of the tank. Grab the gray wire
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
I got to the wiring harness right before the pump. I got 11v on the gray wire while the car was running and at slow idle. The engine was running at 800rpm. I was testing this by myself so it was a little hard but as soon as I turned the key to ON, I think I was getting 12.5v on the gray wire.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
I got the quick disconnect on the fuel return line seperated. This is the one directly on top of the motor. I tried to blow some compressed air (40psi) into the line to see if there is a clog. It doesn't appear to be pushing the fuel in the return line back to the tank. Does anyone know if there is a trick to it? Does the key have to be turned to ON? If this does point towards a clog, where could it be and how can I get rid of it?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
Hold everything. I was trying to blow air into the supply and not the return. I figured this out the hard way when I turned the key and fuel came shooting out what I thought was the return line.

Now that I have this figured out, I removed the real return line and ran a hose from the return line to a gas can, started the car and it was running at 48psi. When I disconnected the return line I could hear the faint sound of the fuel spilling back into the tank. I blew some compressed air (45psi) into the line and I could hear bubbles in the tank. I raised the pressure up a little(80psi) and it didn't seem like there was a larger amount of bubbles since there was alot more air. I reconnected everything and I was back to where I started. 90psi.

I'm going to double check the return line again tonight to see if I see any kink or damage but I'm pretty sure there wasn't any from when I checked it out the other day.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
I checked under the car again to inspect the entire length of the return line starting from on top of the motor to where it goes on top of the gas tank. I did not see any damage or any sign of a possible kink in the line.
Any suggestion as to where I should go from here.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
This is a real uncommon problem. I just had a camaro with the return line plugged with what appeared to be possbily sugar. Next step is to remove fuel line at rear of fuel tank and run it into a tank of gas and see if the pressure is low, where it should be, if it is then remove fuel tank and fuel sender or check for a kinked fuel line at top of fuel tank. This is a fairly easy tank to remove.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
Thanks for responding. I thought everyone gave up on me.
I have actually disconnected the return line by the rear tire and right above the fuel filter. I had the return line draining into a gas can and the pressure was still high. Now I also disconnected the line directly above the motor so with both ends disconnected, I basically have a line with both ends open. I tried to blow air into the line and it should be like trying to blow air through a straw but it's not. I have tried blowing air from both ends and almost no air at all will go through the line. So it seems the blockage is in this section of the line. I have checked the entire line again from the motor to the rear of the car and I again haven't found any kinks, crushed areas or any other type of damage to the line. I tried to push a small wire into the line from both ends but all of the bends are preventing it from going very far.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
Unfortunately the only thing to do is to cut it and narrow down where the blockage is. They have repair line kits for the plastic lines.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BANDITGTP
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
I'm sorry I never got back to posting my resolution on this problem. I think I started to write up the post but got involved with something else.

I ended up replacing the entire return fuel line. That did the trick in lowering the fuel pressure. I eventually got around to cutting the line up into pieces to see if I could find the blockage. Right at the spot where it changes over from the plastic/pvc line to the steel line, there was a white substance blocking the line. There was a pretty good amount of this substance that had a consistancy like toothpaste. I still have some on my tool box that never disappeared and it seems dry now and almost a little powdery if you rub it between your fingers. Any idea what the junk is?

I still have another problem which I was hoping would go away once this was fixed but it did not. I started another post titled "CAR BUCCKING ON ACCELERATION". Hopefully my car will be running right eventually.
Thanks for all your help.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, December 4th, 2019 AT 2:02 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links