What are each wire color for the headlight wire harness? Trying to wire new DRL's

Ok thanks so much. I'm about to figure this out. Get back to you later. Thanks

Well the production date is 10-01. It will not matter because the DRL/EXT LTS fuse was blown lights. Seem fine now.
Thank you!
Thank you!
Thank you!
Bill

I'm am going to finish all my testing once I'm off work for the week. I work 12 hour shifts. I'm going to check for voltage at the MFS switch and apply 12 volts to lt/ blue wire to see if headlights come on. If so I will replace MFS. And I will let everyone know what the issue was. I believe it will be MFS but we will know for sure this week.

Ok everyone. I got to work on car today. PROBLEM FIXED. With the help from 2CarPros and having some knowledge and the right tools. My Low beams now Work. IT WAS MFS. Multifunction Switch. Thank God it wasn't the BCM. The closest dealership wanted $160. To program new one in the car and $220. Outside of car. 2CarPros has done real knowledgable people on there staff. I would recommend them any time. Once he pointed me in the right direction I used 2 tools to diagnose and fix. I used the Power Probe to activate power and the Load Pro to verify open. 2CarPros was right. Thanks so much now I can move forward to other things now. Yeeehaaaw

Thanks guys. All these years later this still helped me out.

If any other people are having these issues 2CarPros is the best

Still helping in 2016. Thanks Doc Fixit. Described my problem to a "T" on my 2001 Impala. After replacing my headlights both old and new did not work. One side dim one side not. It was the DRL/EXT LTS 15 amp fuse. Thanks again.

Thanks for the information, it was spot on. Replaced the headlight "socket" which was heat discolored and the DRL/EXT LTS 15 amp fuse and the problem was solved (2005 Impala).

My headlights were REALLY dim. I thought it was because the lens were bad scratched & messed up. So I bought New headlights. Put them on & the driversife was bright, like it suposr 2b. But passenger side wad Very dim. So we chckd the bulbs, they were god. Replaced dimmer switch. Replaced headlight switch now all we have working is parking lights. HELP ! PLEASE I have NO Headlights !

I am an electrician (bldg. /Industrial) but I fixed my own car lighting problems (Toyota). Problems on headlights sometimes really problematic but once you know the tricks, it becomes easy. Troubleshooting that dim headlights can be step by step. I use my jumpstarting battery to identify if really the bulbs are the problem. I removed. Disconnected the bulbs from the car wiring harness, crimped two extra wires with terminal connector (red and black) and connect both to the bulbs terminal(red +, black - most headlight bulbs if you carefully examine it have 3 flat pins. I usually designate the center pin as the negative bulb terminal and the remaining two terminal pins both left and right are the positive high beam and the low beam. Connect the black wire to the negative battery terminal which is already connected to the center pin of the bulb then connect the red wire to either of the left or right bulb pin terminal while the other end of the wire you connect to the positive terminal of the battery. Now observe the brightness of the bulb. If it's too bright, that's your high beam bulb pin terminal. Then transfer the red wire to the other bulb terminal pin and naturally the bulb glows dim, that's your low beam. Mark the terminals found as high and low. So now after this test you have the concrete idea that the bulbs are okay or one of the tungsten filament inside the bulb maybe the high beam or low beam is broken. The car battery voltage are always 12 volts constant. If you know how to use a voltmeter you can measure the voltages of the high and low beam from the car wiring harness for full complete 12 volts that should be present from both high and low beam wires. If no voltages found when you check with voltmeter then you go to the car fuse box and locate the fuse marked headlights. Hope this will answer your question.

Answer for CAR_Mendoza_1984. If you are not familiar how to use a voltmeter, you use a lamp tester available at any car parts store (auto zone) for $12.00. The lamp tester has it's pointed probe end. This part of the tester designed to be pointed tip for poking or inserting it's tip to any parts of wiring harness and bulbs to check presence of 12 volts. The other end of the tester is a 3 feet long wire either red or orange color with a alligator clip at the end. The clip is designed so that you can attach or clip to metal structure, bolts or body of the car. The metal(steel or galvanized) body
Of the car is universally designated as the ground or negative pole which were already connected to car battery negative terminal cable. You can clip it to any metallic part of the car body while the pointed probe has to be your test probe. The bulb inside the tester should light up if you happen to touch a live part of the wiring or terminals. You can practice it anytime by opening the hood and start testing.