Loss of power when accelerating

Hello,

Lets run the codes by following this guide. Will will probable give you a mixture or fuel trim codes which will indicate and bad fuel pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Here is a guide to show you what you must do to replace the fuel pump with diagrams below to help you see how it will be for your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find.

Cheers

First, it is a good thing that the check engine light came on. What needs to be done is to have the computer scanned to determine what trouble codes are stored in the computer. Most parts stores will do it for free; however, since you cannot drive it, that is a problem. You need to get a scanner to use to check for codes. If there are any nationally recognized parts stores near you (Auto Zone, Advance) call and ask if they lend scanners.

I have to be honest, based on your description, it sounds like the fuel pump has stopped working. I know a parts store will lend you a fuel pressure gauge which is all you need.

Here is a link to an article from this site with step by step instructions and pictures explaining the process of checking the fuel system pressure, regulator and fuel pump in less than fifteen minutes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let me know what you find. I will help you through this.

It sounds like a bad fan clutch on the engine. It is a common failure, but the vehicle has over 78,000 on it. The vehicle warranty is only good to 36,000. It is always a good idea to purchase a good extended warranty on any new vehicle you plan on keeping past the original warranty period.

I believe this model uses an Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Assy.

Usually GM cars will set a default value to a sensor that has failed. This value is usually rich to prevent a lean condition that can melt pistons and other bad things.

That would explain the black smoke (rich). You want to fix this because a rich condition will eventually melt the convertor.

Have GM diagnose the problem, or use the car repair manual link in this thread or get a Haynes manual.

If the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Assy. Is not sending the correct signal to the PCM it is probably the problem.

Thanks for the donation, it is appreciated.

You may have a vacuum leak, get a can of spray Gumout, spray the vacuum lines and manifold area, when the idle changes, you have found the leak! You want the engine running and spray on the outside but do direct the stream onto the hoses, if it is a vacuum leak, the engine idle will change speed, then you have detected a leak, repair the vacuum leak and see how it runs! Or it could be the idle air control valve, if most of the trouble is at idle and take off. It is bolted to the throttle body, is the service engine light coming on? Have the codes read?

Here is a link to an article from this site that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself. Also, I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.

This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.

Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Post the results with the code number(s). Even if the service engine light is not on, there should be freeze frame data stored.

Pictures would help, you can upload them using the add image button?

It would depend on what the hose does as to its effect on the engine. It sounds like it could be a vacuum hose. A large vacuum leak can cause many issues.

What were the codes the reader gave you?

Okay, that is the crankcase vent for the PCV system and it can easily cause a misfire because it pulls in air that the computer does not "see" with its sensors. It attaches under the lip of the resonator box in a grommet. (See arrow) It looks like you may need to remove the resonator, clean and replace the grommet to get it to stay because it appears to be loose if it pulled out.

That could easily cause the P0301.

P0495 - Cooling Fan High Speed. This is a semi common code on these, It means the cooling fan clutch is failing/failed. A quick test to determine if the clutch is failed would be to open the hood, start the engine, and shut it off, if the fan does no keep spinning a bit after the engine is shut off but instead stops with the engine, the clutch is locked. Another is to try turning the fan immediately after you shut it off. You can still drive it but it will be noisy and will keep the CEL and can cause unwanted wear on other parts.

With the mileage you have listed I would suggest to check it for tune up.