Engine will not crank over?

Tiny
KKINTYLE
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 6.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 365,000 MILES
I've checked all relays and fuses all are good. Changed the neutral safety switch, starter, and ignition switch. Still nothing. All dash lights come on, but it still won't
crank.


Truck listed above is a 2500hd.
Sunday, April 5th, 2020 AT 10:44 AM

74 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view.

We need to do some voltage checks to find the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Do you have a volt meter or test light for some testing?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Roy
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
KKINTYLE
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Yes, both.
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, go to the fuse called crank on the lower left side of the dash and check for power to the fuse with the key in the start position.

Roy
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
KKINTYLE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I've checked all of the related fuses and relays. On the starter relay I have power to pin 30 but when I crank it I get no power to pin 85. The relay is good.
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Please stop.

Do you have power to the fuse I listed. Let us take one step at a time.

The power for 85 starts at this fuse. Please just answer each question so we find why there is no power.

This is a power test with a test light or voltmeter in the start position.

Roy
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
KKINTYLE
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Yes.
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, go to the park/neutral switch on the side of the transmission.

With the key in the start position, check the purple/white wire for power in and also check the yellow wire for output. The yellow wire goes to pin 85 at the relay.

Roy
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
KKINTYLE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
The yellow wire was broken at the plug. All is good now. Thank you for your help, time, and patience.
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good find.

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Tuesday, July 21st, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
JM STEPHANI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Truck is not consistent in starting. Acted like there was a bad spot on the starter. Replaced the starter with new one which was tested. Replaced neutral stop switch with a new one. Now starter will not even click.
Put battery charger on battery in start position, still nothing.
Any ideas on what to check next?
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
I'd have to make sure the battery has a full charge and the connections on both ends are ok. Check the applicable fuses, use a testlite, so you can check for voltage on the fuse circuit. There is a crank fuse, left side, instrument panel, fuse block. Not only check the fuse, check for voltage on the circuit. The circuit goes hot with the key in the crank position. You can also check circuits at the starter relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_silverado_starter_circuit_1.jpg

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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BABYJAY531
  • MEMBER
  • 89 POSTS
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133,477 MILES
I went to go start my truck and this is what I ran into. All it does is whine from the starter. Please help!
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

It sounds/looks like the starter solenoid actuator is weak/on its way out. In your first video you could hear it not engaging. In second video you could see it bouncing around. You starter should engage once and that's it.I would suggest replacing the starter motor. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BABYJAY531
  • MEMBER
  • 89 POSTS
Here is a picture of the starter teeth I think they are rounded. This is the original starter.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again.

Yes, sounds like time for a new starter. If you have replaced since posting this question hope your truck is back on the road. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GMCTRUCK59
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
To begin it would fire but not stay running, thought was security problem. So did a wire bypass, decided I was going to take to shop and put wires back together. After that there is no cranking and a clicking noise like from a relay. Not the starter clicking. Any help on where to start would be greatly welcomed.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

If you hear the clicking noise, then you are correct that this would be a relay. Problem is, there is no way to know which one it is without touching each one while you hear it. You will feel it clicking and once you know which one it is, we will be able to better ID the issue.

I attached the breakout of the under-hood block. Let me know what you find but I suspect you will find the starter or ignition relay clicking.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DON TIMM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 162,000 MILES
I have the truck listed above LS.4WD non HD with a 5.3L located in Northwest Washington State. 3 weeks ago I went to start truck and it worked fine. Last weekend I went to start it and it would not even crank. Dash lights, radio, headlights all fine. Replaced the battery anyway because it was getting old. Truck still would not even turn over. Took the starter and had it bench tested. It passed and I am also getting power to the solenoid. I checked all my fuses and relays associated with starting or ignition. All were good. I am figuring at this point it is the ignition switch. I have a Haynes Repair Manual so started looking at the wiring schematic. Tore my dash apart to get to the ignition switch in the steering column but before I just replaced the ign switch I ran a few electrical tests. When key turned to the start position it supplies power directly to a 10A crank fuse located in the left hand side bussed electrical center. The test light lights up when the key is in the start position then goes out when in the run position, lock or accessory position. So as far as I can tell the ignition switch closes the circuit and allows power when trying to start. Following the wiring diagram further it goes to a Park/Neutral Position Switch which ultimately leads to the starter relay in the under the hood bussed elec center. I am baffled at this point. Anybody any thoughts?
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,496 POSTS
You said you had power to the starter solenoid. Are you referring to the battery voltage that is always at the large battery cable connection or the smaller solenoid wire that gets 12 volts from the starter relay? If voltage is showing up from the starter relay, you should be hearing a single, rather loud clunk from the starter each time you turn the ignition switch to "crank".

Here is a guide that will help you test it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Most starter circuits can be broken down into four parts, and each one has a test point at the starter relay socket. GM's circuit complicates that just a little, but you already started down that path. The "crank" voltage you found at the fuse goes to the neutral safety switch next, then to the relay. Check for voltage at the relay socket terminals. You should find 12 volts on one of them all the time. The other terminal on the same side will have 12 volts in the "crank" position. If it does not, suspect the neutral safety switch, or more commonly, a broken wire near it or the gear shift is out of adjustment.

To double-check the other two terminals in the socket, move the ground clip of your test light to the battery positive terminal, then probe the two remaining terminals in the relay socket. It should light up on both of them. One is the ground wire for the coil inside the relay and the other one will read to ground through the starter solenoid coil. The clue there is whether or not you hear or feel the relay click when you try to crank the engine.

Be very careful when you poke your test light into the relay socket terminals. GM didn't waste any money there on quality. The slightest poking with a probe or pushing on the relay will stretch those terminals resulting in an intermittent no-crank condition when there is no other problem in the system.

Please let me know how it goes,

Best, Ken
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SKHOKIE22
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I am not sure how long ago this topic was posted. But I am having an issue that sounds like yours. Except for when I rapidly attempt to turn the key over to the crank position and then off and then on and then off rotating quickly one of those times the motor will start turning over and fire like normal. The weird part is I have owned my 2002 Silverado since 2009 and I've had no issues with it. About 3 weeks ago I purchased a 2005 Chevrolet Expres. The next morning I went to turn it on and it had that issue. The issue with my 2002 Silverado appears to be the same exact issue but the problem began two weeks after I bought the Chevy Express. That sounds like some kind of crazy coincidence to me but both of them have the same symptoms and they both turn on when I rapidly turn the key from ignition to off back and forth multiple times.
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Thursday, September 3rd, 2020 AT 4:50 PM (Merged)

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