Engine will not crank over starter not working?

2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
63,000 MILES • V8 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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KURTRO
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Vehicle will not crank. Battery is okay and fully charged. When turning on the ignition different fault codes come up. Like check 4 wheel drive --- empty washer fluid--- etc..
When trying to crank nothing happens. After removing the key out of the ignition the door locks do not work either from the door switch or the remote. The day time running lamps also stay on indefinitely. This can be resolved by pulling the PCM fuse. On one occasion the truck did crank but shut down after one second. (twice in a row) Now it's back to doing nothing. One change---when inserting the key in the ignition and turning it to the first position, the ignition starts firing ( you can hear the coils hum) and the tach states 3000 rpm.

Tried to hook up a diagnostic reader but there is no communication. I got in the vehicle and slammed the door shut and it came back to live. Diagnostic tool connected and working---no fault codes. Vehicle cranked up and ran for 1 second. Everything dead again. Repeated this process about 5 times. Any ideas?
Nov 4, 2010 at 10:53 AM
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KHLOW2008
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Hi kurtro,

Seems there is a power supply interruption and possibly a fault with the ignition switch as well.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Do you have a test lamp and are you able to perform test on the ignition switch circuit?

What is your engine type?
Nov 7, 2010 at 9:28 AM
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KURTRO
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Yes I do have a lamp to test the switch.
will get to that later today or tomorrow.
Do you suspect just the ignition switch or do you think there is more going on?
If I'm not mistaken the switch didn't feel right the first time I tried to start it.
Memory is kind of vague, I was in a hurry that morning to get to work.
Nov 8, 2010 at 9:09 AM
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KHLOW2008
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The slamming of the door resulting in the system working indicates it could be a loose connection somewhere and since we suspect a power supply fault, the ignition switch would be the first place to start.

You did not provide me with the engine type.
Nov 8, 2010 at 11:02 AM
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KURTRO
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sorry for that 5.3 liter v8 4x4
One more item i discovered---when turning the ignition on there are 4 or 5 fuses(don't remember exactly) that only get 5.5 volts supplied iso the usual 12. The fuses are the following ----one is labeled as crank and the other 3 or 4 or labeled ign1, ign2,ign 3 and ign 4. When removing the key out of the ignition the voltage of 5.5 stays. It only goes back to 0 when the pcm fuse is pulled.
I wasable to do the same test when a doorslam made the truck come to live( I didn't try to crank it though) and the voltage was 12 volts with the ignition on and 0 with the key removed.
Nov 8, 2010 at 12:47 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Fuses should have battery voltage if they are powered.. Any that is lower indicates poor connection. Could be a loose connector or contaminations to terminal contacts.

However if pulling the PCM fuse stops the power, that seems to be a different problem. Seems power is back-flowing from the PCM to the various fuses.

Can you specify which PCM fuse did you pull?

There is a IGN 1 relay in underhood fuse block. Check if it is sticking
Nov 9, 2010 at 6:49 AM
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KURTRO
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checked the ignition relay-----it is powered on with the ignition on----it stays on when removingthe key out of the ignition. You can pull it out and it releases so it's not sticking.
The PCM fuse that resets the problem is PCM/2 (20A)
Nov 9, 2010 at 7:23 AM
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KHLOW2008
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With ignition OFF, the relay should stop working. After pulling out the IGN 1 relay, does it click when you reinstall it?

Is your VIN T or Z?

Check the PCM ground. If it is bad, power back flow can occur resulting in the relay staying on after ignition switch is turned off.

The other possibility is a faulty PCM
Nov 9, 2010 at 8:30 AM
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KURTRO
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update--

the ignition relay stays on after the key is out of the ignition. This goes together with the low voltage on the fuses I mentioned before( I wrote all ofthem down for you----CRANK 10A---BTSI 10A---SCQIGN 10A---TBCIGN1 10A---SIR 15A---O2B 15A---OLA 15A---NULP 20A---IGNE 10A)
This condition stays forever and there is a slight hum coming from the ECU/PCM module.
You can reset this condition by pulling the ECM/PCM fuse or as I found out last night by pulling the ignition relay. When you pull the relay the system goes back to normal (hum dissapears also) andthe relay does not re engage when you put it back.
Checked all grounds and can not find anything bad.
Vin # 1GCEK--T--Z------
Nov 10, 2010 at 7:27 AM
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KHLOW2008
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If it is a faulty ignition switch, pulling the PCM fuse should not stop the power supply.

One more test to perform.

After ignition is turned OFF, unplug the ignition switch wire and if problem stays, you would have to check the PCM or its circuit.
Nov 10, 2010 at 7:44 AM
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KURTRO
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PCM has been ordered---will post the results
Nov 16, 2010 at 3:04 PM
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KURTRO
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Replaced the PCM-----problem solved
Nov 22, 2010 at 1:30 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Thanks for the update.

Have a nice day.
Nov 22, 2010 at 2:19 PM
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TONYSTONEY
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How did you program the PCM when you replaced it. The Haynes Manual says a dealer has to reprogram the antitheft system password and a crankshaft position sensor variation relearn procedure.
Nov 13, 2015 at 5:05 PM
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NIGHTRACER1999
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Electrical problem
2004 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 130000 miles

i have a chevy 2004 truck that wont turn over, the motor was just replaces and but wont turn over, the key doesnt do anything i can jump the start to turn the motor but the key wont turn it, this is a light on the dash that as a truck with a lock on it,
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:09 AM (Merged)
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SATURNTECH9
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It sound's like your security system isn't allowing the truck to start.I emailed you the pass lock learn procedure please tell me if that worked to get it started.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:09 AM (Merged)
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NIGHTRACER1999
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i tried it but it didnt work do you have any other ideas or maybe i did it wrong, i tried it and nothing.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:09 AM (Merged)
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SATURNTECH9
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When you turned the key and let go and waited 10 mins did that light with the lock over the truck ever turn off?That's your security light it says when it's on solid you have code's and there's a problem with the security system.Also does your starter make any noise when you turn your key to the start position?Which model silverado do you have 1500 etc?What size engine do you have?
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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NIGHTRACER1999
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the lock stays on, and there isnt any noise coming from the starter when the key is turned on, the truck is a 2004 z71, engine is 5.3L v8 1500
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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SATURNTECH9
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Is your eighth digit of your vin a T or a Z?Let me know so i can get the starter wire diagram so we can see what's going on.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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SWILSONSR1
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At times, engine will not turn over with key in start position. I have removed the cover of the start relay and with key in on position taken my finger and engaged the relay. The engine then turns over and starts. Also, there is an intermittent problem with the turn signals and tachometer not working with engine running (turn signals will not work intermittently as well with engine running or just with key in the on position). Along with these problems the cruise control may not work as well. At times engaging the cruise control has shut the engine down. The battery is in very good condition and terminals clean. These problems occur at random with no discernible cause.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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check battery for condition including load test as well as make sure terminal ends are clean. most places test for free
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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SWILSONSR1
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Battery is ok. Problem not there
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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try resetting security system if no manual look online.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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SWILSONSR1
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Still no go.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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ok check starter relay with a like relay if that doesn't do it, smack starter on body of starter if engine cranks your starter is bad. if not that have a pro look at it.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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ANDREW_LAWRENCE24
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Battery is fine - getting 12.6 volts. I have done some tests on the solenoid. Battery positive terminal is showing some voltage. When I test the solenoid terminal I get intermittent 1-3 volts. It will get 1-3 volts when key is initially turned, then nothing, then make a small sound, then 1-3 volts, then nothing, all while the key is turned to start. I have had this problem before but if I kept trying a few times it would eventually start. Now I can't get it to start at all.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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TY ANDERSON
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I'm not sure from your description which tests your doing.
Here is some suggestions
Check all the electrical connection at the battery and starter. Make sure there is no corrosion on the battery terminals and that the terminals are tight you should not be able to move them by hand.
Swap or jump the starter relay on the right terminals, does the engine crank over?
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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ANDREW_LAWRENCE24
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I checked the battery connections, all fine, clean and movable. I didn't have a large enough screwdriver to jump the solenoid terminals but I did use a hammer to do this (much harder to jump the correct solenoid terminals). It did move the pinion and I believe started turning it but it didn't sound like a normal smooth start so I stopped trying that in fear I would break something on the starter.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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TY ANDERSON
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If the battery & starter electrical connections are good and the battery is also good then there are only a few things left. I would suspect the starter motor first. Some times try hitting the starter motor with a hammer or mallet with someone trying to start the engine. If it tries to turnover or makes noise, smoke ect you probably have a bad starter motor.
If all the instrument cluster lights come on as normal then I would still suspect the starter motor over the ignition switch. You could try jumping the starter relay to see if it igntion switch related. If it turns over by jumping the start relay then you know the ignition switch is not causing the starter relay to work ( or the relay itself is faulty).
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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CAPKO
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Electrical problem
2004 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 91000 miles

I have a chevy 3/4 ton truck. I went to try to start it and it wont even turn over. My battery is only 1 year old it has 700 CCR, so i did not think it was my battery. The other vehicle we have is a honda odyssee so i tried to jump it and it still would not turn over. Should I take my battery out and have it tested still or should i move right ot the starter?
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Get the battery load tested.If ok,get a helper to hold key in the cranking position,while you go bang on the starter,if it engages the engine replace the starter.If not could be one of the following:

starter relay, park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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STEVEG422
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Electrical problem
2004 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

ocassionally when turning the key to start the truck when the key gets to the first notch all functions go on and dash lights and radio are fine then when engaging the next switch to turn over the starter all functions go out. Dash lights and gauges and radio go out and nothing happens. No starter no clicking. Wait a few minutes and try again and most of the time everything is normal and it starts. Any thoughts?
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Start by checking the ignition switch
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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WAYNE540
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Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Chevy Silverado V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

I have a Chev. pickup . I went to start it yesterday and the starter wouldn,t turn over. I acted like a dead battery. The battery was ok. the lights an radio all worked. The battery gauge showed 14 Volts in Battery. This is the frist time this has happened . What could be the problem beside the staarted.
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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When you say it has trouble what kind? Clicking? or nothing at all? If you hear a click, then either the battery is weak, or the starter, possibly bad battery cable connections, check and clean both ends of BOTH cables! Dissconnect negative(-) first, and put it on last! If no click the starter relay is no good!
Feb 2, 2017 at 3:10 AM (Merged)
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JWBINGHAM
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Posting for my husband:

Turbo was going out, so he replaced the turbo, all the gaskets and while he was at it, replaced brakes, master cylinder, all new steering components, two new batteries and I am probably forgetting something. Got it all put back together, but now will not crank. When you turn the key on, there is no click, no sound at all, but dash lights come on, radio works, door locks work, but there's no shift indicator under the PRNDL Replaced broken clock spring, key lock, ignition switch, and neutral safety switch, still nothing. It shows no codes. Have checked all grounds, fuses, relays, and all is good there. Can jump across the solenoid with a screw driver and it will start, and run, but will not shift out, It is in third or fourth gear. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Nov 13, 2019 at 11:49 AM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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try a security system reset as batteries were removed. probably the reason it won't start. see link an dpic one will work.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system
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Nov 13, 2019 at 11:49 AM (Merged)
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JWBINGHAM
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We've already tried this too. At a loss as to what to try next. It does have a programmer, but when he plugs it in, it never progresses after it finds the VIN#, so could this have anything to do with it?
Nov 13, 2019 at 11:49 AM (Merged)
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HMAC300
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it may very well be the problem have amechanic scan with his pro style scanner.
Nov 13, 2019 at 11:49 AM (Merged)
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JWBINGHAM
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He will call tech support for the programmer first and see what they have to say. I will update as we know more. Thanks !!
Nov 13, 2019 at 11:49 AM (Merged)