Has spark just wont start up

Hello,

There is only three things that are needed to make a vehicle start. They are, in no particular order, 1) Spark(delivered at the proper time) 2) Fuel 3)Compression. So let's start with the first thing and by a process of elimination we will get to the reasons your vehicle is not starting. I have included a link for you to go to down below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please go through this guide and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hi wmajeski,

I had a problem with my 2000 Impala a few years back that came to mind when I read your post.
Especially, the problem seeming to correct itself in five to fifteen minutes.

The problem on my Impala was the crankshaft position sensor. The resistance through the sensor must be within a certain range or the ignition system will shut off. I noticed that the sensor removed from my car had a buildup of magnetized particles in the grooves. And it always was able to be started after a five to fifteen minute wait. I suspect that this buildup somehow affected the resistance and the few minutes somehow made a difference in the resistance. I know it sounds pretty far out, but so is a car that will no start now, but will in five to fifteen minutes from now.
Anyway, I think it is probably worth a try to check out the sensor as the culprit since all the rest of the engine ignition components have been eliminated.

Good luck,

TakeChargeSarge

It sounds as if there is a fuel pump problem with this. the smoke may be from no fuel then starting when it did. so check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. see link:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
if your car has been having a hard time going up hills or starting hard may also be associated with it. then scan for codes because check engine light is on auto parts does for free.

If you can jump the starter relay, then there is no power getting to where it needs to be. Recheck the wiring to the ignition switch. Even though the switch is new, there has to be a problem between the two.

Here is a guide that can help us get going in the right direction:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

It could be. Since you are having that many electrical problems, it makes me wonder if you have a ground issue or body control module (BCM) issue. Just for the heck of it, make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, the cables are in good condition, and the ground to the engine block is clean and tight.

First, make sure the ECU you got has the same part number. If it is different, it will not work properly. Since everything has been checked, I still feel the problem is in the wiring between the ignition switch and the relay. You could have an internal break in the wiring that cannot be seen. As a result, continuity needs to be checked through the power supply wires.

I have attached a schematic of the starting system for you to look at. There are a few things I need you to check. First, from the positive remote (under the hood) power is supplied to the ignition switch via a red wire. Check at the switch to make sure it is hot. From there, it follows a yellow wire to the PCM crank fuse (10 amp). Make sure it is not blown and make sure you have power in that wire with the key in the start position. After the fuse, the wire in question is purple and runs to the PCM crank request/crank relay control in the air box (check for power). If there is still power, the wire to follow is yellow with a black tracer which runs to the under-hood junction block (pin C10). (check for power) From there, power comes out from a purple wire (pin B10) and goes to the starter solenoid. Check for power. Keep in mind, the purple wire actuates the solenoid and energizes the starter. However, the true power to the starter (to turn it) is always hot. It is the big wire directly from the battery. Also, all of the places I said to check for power needs to be done with the key in the start position, and there should be twelve volts present. If you have power throughout the map I sent you, the starter system has been checked. Which leads me to the next question. Are all the wires in the junction block (under the hood) clean, tight, and not corroded?

Sorry this is so long, but it takes awhile to explain it all. Also, I want you to let me know if the vehicle has a factory remote start system. Finally, when you are checking for power, make sure to move the wires around to make sure power continues to flow and not stop.

See where you are losing power

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Let me know what you find.

Joe

It could have caused the problem. However, if you replaced everything back the way it was, it should be fine.

Let me know how you make out with the problem.

Joe

That is a concern. The computers are different based on the transmissions, options.

The "remote posisitve" is where the positive battery cable connects under the hood. As far as the red wire, it should be hot all the time.

Based on what you said about the ignition switch wiring being hot sometimes and not others, I think you have another bad ignition switch or something is out of alignment. Were you able to read the schematic?

PS: Put the original PCM back in too.