Car shuts down while driving down the road

Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
Most likely a fuel starvation problem. Inside the tank the pump sits in a square hole that retains gasoline for situations like hard braking. In other words it prevents all the gas from rushing to front of tank and starving engine.

These are made of plastic and can sometimes break allowing too much fuel out and starving pump pick-up.

You could attach a fuel pressure gauge to test port in rail, jack up rear of car (to simulate hard braking) and if pressure drops, the tank will most likely have to be replaced.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOOL MAN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 292,000 MILES
I have a 1998 Chevy Cavalier with 292,000 miles on it. It has the 2.2 L engine with a 5 speed manual transmission. I recently drove the car through a flooded area in the neighborhood. Since then, the car will stall but it only seems to do this when the weather is wet or damp. Once it is dry, the car will run fine. I had a tune up done prior to driving through the water but did not experience any problems similar to what is currently happening. The spark plugs and wires were replaced during the tune-up but have not been changed since. I have replaced the following since the flood incident - fuel pump, air filter and coil packs. I'm not sure if this problem is electrical or fuel related. How can I find out which on eis causing the problem? Also, when the car stalls and is downshifted to a lower gear and the clutch is released, it will not restart while rolling. Any ideas on what the problem is?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi:
It sounds like, even though the dist cap was most likely replaced, dampness is getting into the dist and causing problems. It could also be caused by the plug wires getting wet.

Joe
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATHUSILA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 205,000 MILES
The car runs fine at startup when it reaches normal operating temp it starts spitting and sputtering, backfiring then quits running and wont start until it cools down, the only codes it gives are crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor range/performance, both of which I have replaced to no avail and it is still giving me the codes and on the anylizer it says that the egr, eva, cat, and the O2 sensors are all failing what is the problem?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
That is a tough one. I would start by checking to see if the converter is plugging. If it is, it could set all the codes you mentioned. You can either check back pressure or remove the converter to see if it runs when hot.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)
Tiny
6BMU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
I was driving in a snowstorm last night and hit a patch of black ice. I managed to get the car under control but when my tires grabbed traction the car came to a dead stop and turned directly onto its side. After about 30 minutes of the car sitting on it's side, the tow truck came and leveled the car out. The car started right away with no problems, but within 5 to 10 minutes the car died and now will only turn-over but not start. What should I do to get my car running again? I am a student with a 3 week old baby and I am beyond broke for the next couple of weeks. I don't have the money to put the car in a shop until they decide what is wrong with it. Because right now they say they have no idea until they look at it.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
Check fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge, if OK then check spark with spark tester.

Some cars (fords for example) have a rollover switch that cuts off fuel in the event of a rollover and must be reset, not sure about the Chevy. Your owners manual should have info regarding this.

If you have insurance on the car, have it repaired under collision.

It is hard to guess until you inspect the car and check fuel and spark and other items.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
See you are getting good advise from mmprince.
You do have an low oil pressure switch that will shut down. Did any oil come out while it was on it side? Check oil level you may get lucky.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KLESNESKI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100 MILES
My 98 chevy cavalier will start but as soon as you touch the gas it will die. Before this happened all of the lights on the dash board were coming on and off like the engine light the brake light all them.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Check fuel pump pressure. Make sure it is within spec. If the check engine light was on, have the computer scanned to determine if the pressure is within manufacturer's specs.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOESAMONS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 200,000 MILES
I have a 1998 cavalier 2.2 liter automatic transmission that after running at highway speeds 55-80 stalls at stopping. I put my car into neutral, start it up (has no problems restarting) Then when I shift into drive from neutral it clunks hard, then clunks hard again from 1st, to 2nd gear, then clunks again but not so hard from 2nd to 3rd. I would assume that this is the motor mounts, however it only seems to happen after the car stalls. My check engine light turns on and off pretty randomly, and would assume that the light itself is malfunctioning. The car does not stall at every stop, and never stalls if not brought over 45, or if the car does not make it to standard running temp. Ive recently done a full tune up with the exception of the coil pack module.(Coil packs have been replaced, just not the module that holds them) I am unsure of how to check for vacuum leaks, so some VERY DETAILED information on doing that would probably be a great first step, But in all honesty I am NO MECHANIC, so I cant stress enough on detail.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
The check engine light is working and is telling you there is a problem. You need to have the code pukked and get back to us.

Yes, you may have a mount issue but I doubt it. You most likely have an internal issue that needs to be addressed before it lets you down on the road.

Roy
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOESAMONS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The error codes read as following :

P0742
Definition:TCC stuck on
Explanation:
commanded off by the ECM - TCC slip detected after off command
Probable Cause
1. Solenoid Failure
2. Open or short circuit condition
3. Blocked passage in transmission
4. Check transmission range switch for proper operation

P0122
Definition
TP(throttle Position)sensor
Explanation
The Throttle position signal is used for various systems in the vehicle.
Probable Cause
1. Sensor open or shorted internally - replace component
2. Check connector and wiring to sensor

P1404
Definition
EGR valve stuck open condition
Explanation
While monitoring the EGR valve pintle position the ECM detected the closed position sensor voltage higher the learned closed position voltage
Probable Cause
1. Failed EGR valve
2. Carbon blockage of the pintle.

Thats all the information I could gather about the codes. All of this is practically Chinese to me, so if you could at least tell me what to fix in order to have my car in good running condition, whether or not its something I can do by my self, and if it isnt something to try doing alone, about how much to expect for cost. Or if the car is even worth fixing. As I said before im far from a mechanic, but I am willing to try to fix it my self if its not to complicated.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOESAMONS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Can someone hrlp please
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ELLEN B
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
We had a the same problem with our Chevy Cavalier and we spent a ton of money having everything fixed, cleaned or replaced. It took us a VERY long time but we were finally able to find the root of the problem and permanently fix it ourselves.

Ours turned out to be a bad Torque Converter Clutch (TCC). You can easily check to see if that's what the problem is by disconnecting it, driving the car to see if it happens again. If it does not then you most likely need to replace the TCC (they used to be around $100.00 at the auto parts store). We just left ours disconnected and the problem was solved (although replacing it helps with the gas mileage and is probably needed for emission testing).

I hope this helps you.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
97CAVALIER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 247,000 MILES
Recently, I would be driving my car (however long, whatever distance) and it would be fine. I'd stop at the store or something for 10-15 min or whatever, and start my car up. It starts kinda rough, and when I put it into gear and push the gas pedal, it kind of sputters, and eventually stalls out. After trying to restart it multiple times, it finally catches. And after letting it sit for at least an hour, it starts up, and runs fine. There sometimes is still a little "sputtering" when idling at a stop light, but other than that, when I get going its fine. What would be causing something like this? Thanks for the help!
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Symptoms indicates possible low idling speed. Get the throttle body and IAC cleaned and retest.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Sounds like you could have a fuel pump getting hot and binding when restarted but you would have to take a fuel pressure reading at the moment that occurs.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
97CAVALIER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I'll definitely look into those, thanks! But if it helps, today it is pretty cool, and rainy and it didn't show any signs of wanting to stall. Where yesterday, when it was stalling, it was pretty hot out. If that could effect it at all.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Check the coolant level and Engine Coolant Temperature sensor as well.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)

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