Engine stalls while driving?

My 99 cavi does almost the same thing. I"t has not cut out on me yet but I have not drove it much since she started acting up. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and took off the catalytic converter. She still runs really rough and spits and sputters. While driving her she did blink out a code so I changed out the crankshaft sensor has been good ever since.

When I stop and start to turn the car stalls. It starts right back up. It also happens when I stop sometimes. It is quite dangerous. Any ideas? I have no error codes and took it to a mechanic who claimed it was the spark plug wires. He was doing it under a free service deal from a used car dealer however. We replaced and it stalled that day on the way home.

I had a neighbor look at it, who works at a toyota dealership as a mechanic. He told me he couldn't do anything till it actually happened. He said chevy's have notorious fuel pump issues. He said check the same things you mentioned. The plugs and wires and air filter are new.

I have a little better than basic knowledge of cars. Anything I dont know I can look up. Does the fuel pump seem likely though? It sounded like a long shot. Any opinion?

Where would I look for a vacuum leak?

About the fuel filter, I havent checked that. Is fuel filter hard to reach and replace on these cars? Ive only had it 3 months, haven't delved in too much yet.

Sorry I havent replied sooner. I will look into how to check the fuel pressure. THe neighbor I had helping me turned out to be no real help. But the problem has progressed. Now it stalls if you are idling and turn the air off. It will start to stall and catch itself sometime other times it just stalls. I had the alternator and battery checked because the the clock shut off when the lights turned on. The battery turned out to be bad. Ill reply when I check the fuel pressure. Does this info change anything though?

That was my original thought from looking around. Should I cause the car to stall then put the little diagnostic computer on it? Do you think it would tell me anything?

I believe the car was running fine when I put the tool on it.

I have replaced the plugs fuel filter and the check engine light said the piston in the egr valve was stuck so I replaced the egr valve. Now no light but the stalling problem is still there also the light flicker when driving at night replaced the battery and had the alternater checked car checked out great even with a load it will run great and rev up without a miss fire at a idle. Im so lost now checked for a vacum leak all lines in great shape.I need any help I can get at this point.

Engine stalls after running car several miles and temp. Has reach normal operating temp. When you shut car off for short time and crank it to continue driving it will want to stall, you can take out of gear and raise rpm for several seconds and it clears up. Temp. Has risen to about 200 or so while shut down. When I scan computer it gives code that fuel too lean or too much air, where should I begin.

I have checked for vaccum leaks and can't locate any. Is there a better method other than visual. Also wondering if it's possibly the upstream O2 sensor is bad, this code showed up along the same time the cat. Stopped up. I replaced cat. And downstream O2 sensor and erased code and it reappeared. Thanks for your suggestions and have a great day!

My 97 Cav has been a great running vehicle, have had very few issues over the past 11+ years we've owned it. The problem I have is that there is a medium-high pitched whine/vibration sound coming from the back of the car. It happens about 80% of the time and when the engine is going to die, the pitch of the sound increases and then stops and the car conks out about 5 seconds later. It almost always happens if I have to stop and go a few too many times, sit idling at red lights, or go thru the drive thru. It just doesn't like sitting still :). I'm not sure if the fuel pump is getting hot and stops pumping fuel or what. Most times I can let the car sit in the off position for a couple minutes and it will restart and I can head on home, sometimes it stops repeatedly and I just want to drive it into the lake.

I replaced the fuel filter at about 90-100k just to see if that was the problem and it made no difference. Anything I can try or test to see if that is the problem before I start ripping out the fuel tank and getting into this repair? I'm not the most proficient mechanic but I think I can do this repair. I have replaced my entire AC system and several simple repairs like alternator and serpentine belt in the past.

Ok I watched the video and it made perfect sense to check the pressure first. However, I searched and searched and can't locate any place to connect a pressure tester on the fuel rail. I poked around on the internet and asked in a Cavalier forum and it appears that you can remove the fuel filter and connect the tester inline? I remember that when I replaced the filter I had a really hard time getting it off and back on again. Do you think it is a better use of my time and money to just purchase a new filter and pump and install them both at the same time? I know replacing the pump is going to be the harder of the 2 tasks but I think the fuel filter might have to be taken out in the process of dropping the fuel tank anyway?

Thanks for your time in reviewing my questions!