Engine stalls while driving?

Tiny
ROBERTCOX24
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 162,000 MILES
I have a 1997 chevy Cavalier with a 2.2 My oil light has been coming on for a while after it warms up and only when it is idleing. It has enough oil in it the dip stick says it is full. But 2 days ago it has started dieing on me after it warms up. When it cools back down I can drive it agin till it gets warm again. Could this be the oil pressure switch? If not, what could this be?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERTCOX24
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I changed the oil pressure switch but did not solve the problem. What else could this be?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Use an analog gage in place of the oil sending unit. Double check the oil pressure. Do think the engine is siezing, when it warms up? What is the temp gage showing? When it stalls, can you turn the cranshaft by hand? How long since a tune-up? Any applicable codes?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MRFIXIT2013
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 190,000 MILES
After the engine is warmed up and runs a couple of miles, it tends to stall and hesitate. After replacing the fuel filter, the problem still remains. However, some days the car runs fine.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
If the problem is temp related, check the coolant temp sensor. Can you check for applicable trouble codes? To check codes, yourself, at the least, you need and obd2 code reader. Some of the national brand autostores will check codes for free. Let us know what you find?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TSOUDERS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 173,000 MILES
Got new alternator, battery, cool packs; plugs, wires, checked battery;modlue. Runs terrific; never know when it going to act up again. I have two kids; and don't trust my car to drive it. It like it has a dead short somewhere.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Have your mechanic check the crank position sensor. These never come up in a scan when they are bad. Is there a check engine light on?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TSOUDERS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I could be going down the road at 55 mph; then all the sudden; I can tell in the gas pedal; it's losing power; then the motor just stops. Then I can start it right back and go again.I can drive it for 2 or 3 weeks like a charm; then all the sudden it will do it again. Sounds like something simple;but can't find the problem or the short.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Is there a check engine light on? I would check the crank sensor, and fuel pump relay. This is gonna be hard because you cannot mimic it at any time to test the spark and fuel. Once again leads me to the crank sensor. Just have it checked. Or if there is a check engine light on. Bring it to autozone they will check it for free and bring the codes back to me and I will look them up for you
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DREAMER37
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
First of the year had sugar put in gas tank, cost me over 2k to take care of that problem at reputable car repair shop.

In the last 6-8 weeks, every other week and no joke always close to my payday. The car will just simply die. It has done it 2 blocks from my home during a rain storm, while exiting a fast food location, and just in the driveway. The car will die. And when you hit the key you get no sound at all plus no dash lights. Before asking there is no clicking sound either, there is simply nothing. But, I do have headlights, and 4 way flashers, I think turn signals, but the wipers dont work.
The first time this happend the alternator was bad and was replaced with a tested but good condition used alternator. Week or so later it died while driving in rain to work, this time. The next day, a connecting wire to the starter was a bit loose, so we tightened it, but still wouldnt start. Removed battery to have it load tested, when battery was replaced car started, but battery tested fine. One other time a wire to the battery terminal was loose and this fixed it and it started. But this time, today, it died while leaving fast food place and has the same issues as earlier, no sound no dash lights nothing when turning the key. Fuses have all been checked and are fine. Im at my wits end! Please help
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DREAMER37
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Removed a fusible link and direct wired, still because of not much spark from the battery, when shorting across terminal, car was jumped still nothing from turning key in the ignition. But, after having key on jumper cables in place and shorting across the starter the car started, and has restarted several times since, but im not content the problem has been resolved. Still need help!
Update: there is power to the wire running from the battery to the under hood fuse/relay box but no power to fuses within the under hood fuse/relay box.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi dreamer37,

Thank you for the donation.

When problem occurs, if battery voltage is not present at the Ignition Fuse ( 50A) in underhood fuse box, either the connection from battery is bad or the fuse box ia faulty internally.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HEMI CUDA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
My cavalier runs great and it only has trouble when is wants to. It stalls going down the road now lights come on you coast to ou stop and put it in park hit the key and away you go might run for 500 miles or 50 it has a mind of its own. I put it on the scanner looking for codes but nothing. Is this electrical or machanical I don't know
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PHANTOM01
  • MEMBER
  • 79 POSTS
This is a good one.A lot of the time when electronic componets heat up they fail. Which makes for hard diagnosos.I have found that the ECM is most often the gremlin. But hard to say without being there. Just a thought for you
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 22,000 MILES
1997 Chevy Cavalier mileage: 22,000 The engine races on its own. Also accelerates from about 45 up to 90 mph maximum throttle on its own; brakes don't stop it, have to shift to neutral and turn off ignition switch. Intermittent situation can't prove it to dealer. Sometimes engine will stall while driving 35 to 60 mph. Could this be the cruise control? Have you heard this before?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
Yes. The cruise control could cause your problem †acceleration on its own. The cause of the engine stalling 35 to 60 mph could be many things. Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system. The computer will store any fault or error codes. Having it scanned will retrieve these codes and pinpoint the malfunctioning component.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,990 POSTS
May be a vacuum leak problem?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BETH3P
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 87,000 MILES
I have a 97 chev cavalier, it broke down mechanic put in a battery. Week later died again, jumped it brought it back he thought the radio even though it doesnt work was somehow hooked up so that it was sucking juice from battery. 2 days ago died again, started back up but dash was going crazy on way home and every time I touched the brake felt like it wanted to die. Died again when I got it home. Next day jumped it and it started but when I touched brake felt like it wanted to die and dash still going nuts. Then when went to put in reverse it just died again. What could it be
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,750 POSTS
Beth it sounds like you need an alternator.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE H R
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,094 POSTS
Did you or someone put the radio in the car before this happened or had it been in the car for a while? From the description you have given I would have the altinator checked ! The new battery had enough juice to work ok for a few days but when it started to get low it acted like the old one, when a car is running off the battery and the voltage gets low it would act the same way as you described.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)

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