Check Engine Light?

The "flash delay" between the code digits threw me for a loop the first time i tried to extract the codes off of dad's '86 t-bird (which is still alive and looks almost new) this guide will help you get the codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Please run down these guides and report back.

Hi Jaime,

Here are a couple possibilities.

Throttle Position Sensor

Idle Air Control Valve

Large Vacuum Leak

If you can it would help greatly if you could get codes, here's how.

To extract DTCs from the computer for diagnostic purposes, the Self Test connector is used.

1. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. If engine will not start or stalls after starting, proceed with next step.

2. Turn the key "OFF", then wait ten seconds.

3. Activate the self test by grounding the Self-Test Input (STI) connector.

4. Turn the ignition key "ON".

5. Record all codes received.

6. Turn ignition "OFF".

Data Link Connector (DLC)
(Located Underhood)

Check engine light coming on
its many, many possibilities and need to have it checked for codes
codes should indicated trouble area and or the faulty sensor
two methods to get the codes
1- using a scanner tool
2- using an ohm meter

PROCEDURES FOR READING FORD FLASH CODES 1. Start with the ignition off.

The engine should also be at normal operating temperature. 2. On pre-OBD

II models (prior to 1995/96), locate the diagnostic connector and

self-test pigtail connector (usually in the engine compartment). Connect

a jumper wire from the self-test pigtail connector to the signal return

terminal on the diagnostic conenctor. CAUTION: Refer to a shop manual for

the proper terminal location if you do not know which terminal to use.

Jumping the wrong terminal may damage the computer system! 3. Turn the

ignition switch ON (but do not start the engine). The Check Engine light

should now start to flash. Count the flashes to determine the code

number. Ford provides several types of codes: * KEY ON/ENGINE OFF CODES

-- These are the first codes displayed and only reveal malfunctions that

are currently present (hard faults). A Code 11 (flash, flash, pause)

indicates "system pass" (no problems found). If there are any problems,

the code numbers will be displayed in numerical sequence. Next comes a

separator code (a single flash preceeded and followed by a long 6 to 9

second pause). This will be followed by any other codes that are in the

computer's memory as a result of intermittent or previous faults. If none

are present, you'll see a code 11 again. * ENGINE RUNNING CODES -- These

are codes that are generated while the engine is running. To check for

running codes, start the engine while the system is still in the

diagnostic mode. To do the engine running test, the engine should be run

at fast idle (1500 rpm) for about 2 minutes so the oxygen sensor has time

to warm up. Turn the engine off, wait 10 seconds then restart it. The

first engine running code to appear is an engine identification code (20,

30 or 40), followed by a single pulse. Within 15 seconds after this, snap

the throttle wide open then allow it to return to idle (this is Ford's

"goose test"). If there are no faults, you will see a code 11 again. If

there are faults, the code numbers will be displayed in sequence.

ALTERNATIVE ANALOG VOLTMETER PROCEDURE Ford codes can also be read by

connecting an analog voltmeter to the diagnostic connector. The positive

voltmeter test lead should go to the battery, and the negative test lead

should be inserted into the proper diagnostic connector terminal. (NOTE:

the selt-test input connector must also be jumpted to the signal return

terminal on the diagnostic connector, too, the same as before). When the

ignition is turned ON, the needle on the voltmeter will jump to indicate

pulses just like flashes of the Check Engine light,. By counting the

sweeps of the voltmeter needle, you can determine the code numbers.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL When the self-test pigtail connector is jumped to the

self-test connector, fault codes can be read through the Message Center

on the instrument panel. Copyright 2000 Carley Automotive Software

On column shift models, disconnect transmission (PRNDL) selector cable.
Lower steering column.
Remove 4 screws securing instrument cluster.
Pull instrument cluster back, unplug connectors and disconnect speedometer cable (if equipped). Remove instrument cluster.
Replace the bulb

Hi there,

There should be a check light come on with the ignition, if it has a blown globe, you will have to drop out the dash cluster to access the globe holder. I will post info on cluster removal if you need this, I will have to look it up.

Mark (mhpautos)

Hi:
Having the radiator rodded out may help solve the problem of overheating, but I'm stummped on the check engine light. If the light comes on, there should be a code set in the computer. Have you tried having the computer scanned at a nationally recognized parts store? Many do it for free. I would try that.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

If the light was on, it should have saved a code. I would try it anyway. Many parts stores will do it for free. That is one reason I suggested it. At least there is no money out of pocket.

Take the erg valve off, clean the port under it all the way to the throttle body, I use a piec of wire coathanger, then clear the code, if light stays out you ar good, if it comes back on, replace the EGR position sensor, this is the sensor with the 2 rubber hoses that come from the flex tube to the EGR. Be careful removing these hoses, they tend to get stuck on the flex!

Hi:
What I need you to do is have the computer scanned when the check engine light is on. Most parts stores will do it for free.

Let me know what trouble codes are found.

Joe