'85 CJ7 - Need help w/ Electrical, Not Starting (caused by me removing PO-installed alarm behind dash)

DO THIS TEST--"KEY ON". PIC 1. THIS IS POSITIVE "COIL" TO A GOOD GROUND (NEG BATTERY)---WE ARE SEEING IF VOLTAGE IS REACHING THE COIL, AND EXACTLY HOW MUCH. WITH THE "KEY ON"

YOU MAY HAVE DONE THIS TEST, 'CEPT YOU CALLED IT SOLENOID?

I NEED TO KNOW THIS AT THE COIL!

PIC 2?

PIC 3----YOUR RESULTS?

PIC 4?

GLAD TO SEE YOU ARE MOTIVATED!

PLEASE CLARIFY THIS---IT TURNED OVER FINE."DID" OR "DID NOT" BUST OFF AND RUN WITH KEY ON?. WHEN YOU "CHEATED THE SOLENOID"

I MUST WORK IN MORN 11:00---LONG DAY---COVERING FOR ANOTHER PERSON TOO. BACK AT ABOUT 20:00 TOMORROW EVENING

PLEASE DON'T BE SAD---WE WILL GET IT!

THE MEDIC

I'M TRYING TO GET YOU SOME STUFF TOGETHER AS YOU READ THIS

AFTER I SAW YOUR PIC AND THE "AMC" LOGO, I FIGURED IT MIGHT BE INTERMITTENT WIPERS

SOLENOID TEST: "I TERMINAL" (NOT "I" WIRE) AIN'T GONNA GIVE FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE UNTIL WE MAKE "S" WORK PROPERLY AND THE SOLENOID ACTIVATES, LIKE IT SHOULD.

(WHICH WILL TURN THE STARTER OVER-UNLESS WE DISCONNECT THE BIG CABLE AT THE STARTER WHILE TESTING)

THEN, WITH THE KEY AT "START", THIS WILL MAKE THE ELECTROMAGNET IN THE SOLENOID "CLICK REALLY HARD" (COPPER CONTACT PLATES WITHIN IT ARE "CONNECTING" THE 2 BIG POSTS, TO RUN THE STARTER STRAIGHT OFF OF THE BATTERY....BASICALLY, A BIG ELECTRIC SWITCH IN THE BIG CABLES.

THEN "I TERMINAL", ON THE SOLENOID, WILL PUT OUT FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE.....BOOSTING THE COIL, WHILE THE STARTER TURNS.....WHY THE BOOST?...BECAUSE THE STARTER WOULD NORMALLY BE ROBBING VOLTAGE FROM THE COIL (AND EVERYTHING) AS IT TURNS

SOOOOOO!!! WE GOTTA "S WIRE" WORKING.......I'M WORKING ON IT---I WANT TO MAKE IT AS EZ AS I CAN....LIKE 2ND GRADER LEVEL, SO OTHERS WILL UNDERSTAND, WHO MIGHT READ THIS, OR IF I LINK SOMEONE HERE

YOU ARE DOING GREAT!

SUPER INFO!

A MANUAL!

PICS!

VOLTMETER LITERATE (FOR WHAT WE NEED)

WIPERS.....LATER! IF YOU CHANGE YOUR WIPER SWITCH, AND WIRE UP LIKE AN EARLIER MODEL, MAYBE YOU CAN LOSE THE INTERMITTENT STUFF...........I HAVE THE DIAGRAM YOU CAN USE TO DO THIS!!!!!....BUT LATER!

YES, THE HOSE IS MISSING! IT'S A "TIN FOIL" "MINIATURE CLOTHES DRIER VENT" LOOKING HOSE, A PARTS STORE SHOULD HAVE ONE ("GENERIC")

I KNOW YOU ARE EAGER!

THANKS FOR ANSWERING QUESTIONS I ASK! (IF I MISS ONE OF YOURS, ASK ME AGAIN!)

I NEED SOME MORE ANSWERS---THIS WAS RUNNING UP UNTIL THE ALARM UNINSTALL??? HAS ANYONE TAKEN THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT OR MOVED IT??

REPLACE THE BLOWN FUSES! THEIR SLOTS SHOULD HAVE HAVE THE CORRECT AMPS WRITTEN ON THE PANEL ABOVE OR BELOW THEM

I WANT TO TO TRY TO START IT WITH THE KEY, ONCE THE FUSES ARE IN PLACE.....RESULTS???

CHECK TO SEE WHAT MAY HAVE BLOWN (AGAIN) THIS IS IMPORTANT!

IF IT STILL DOES NOT CRANK---DO THIS:

THIS IS WHAT YOUR MODULE LOOKS LIKE

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ignition-Control-Module-BWD_5240484-P_194_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS_____

TO REMOVE YOUR IGNITION MODULE ....ON EITHER SIDE OF THE CONNECTORS GRASP THE WIRES AND PULL HARD (DIGGING W/ A SCREWDRIVER IS SORTA FRUITLESS) IF YOU PULL EVENLY ON THE BUNDLE OF WIRES, IT WILL COME APART AND YOU WON'T BREAK THE LOCKING TABS

OFF TO A POPULAR AUTO PARTS STORE, YOU GO....THEY USUALLY WILL TEST THESE FOR FREE

LETS WATCH AND SEE IF THEY HOOK UP RIGHT (IF YOU KINDA CAN READ THE CHART THEY ARE READING)

THEN HAVE THEM TEST IT 5-8 TIMES (THIS WILL WARM IT UP) SHOULD IT FAIL THE LAST FEW TESTS.....ANY THING LESS IS LAZINESS....AND YOU MIGHT SUFFER...NOT THEM!

WHAT IF IT FAILS?.............YES, REPLACE IT!

AS YOU PUT YOU HAND ON THEIR DOOR HANDLE TO LEAVE, WITH YOUR NEW ONE............

TURN YOUR BUTT RIGHT AROUND, GO BACK TO THE COUNTER, AND HAVE THEM TEST "THEIR" NEW ONE 5-8 TIMES.

WHY????

THERE'S NOTHING LIKE TEARING YOUR ENTIRE JEEP CJ 5 DOWN (EVEN THE WIRING) FOR 2 DAYS, TEARING YOUR HAIR OUT!.........BECAUSE, IT WILL NOT START!!! .......THEN YOU TAKE THE BRAND NEW, UNTESTED MODULE, BACK TO THE STORE, ONLY TO FIND OUT.....IT TOO, WAS BAD!

BELOW IS A PIC OF THE TESTER AT ADVANCE AUTO......THE CORRECT PIG-TAIL TO TEST YOURS IS RIGHT BESIDE THE MACHINE (I PUT IT THERE!)

AFTER THIS SET OF ANSWERS I GET FROM YOU

I'M GONNA REQUEST THAT YOU SEND ...."NO MORE INFO"!, UNTIL I SEND YOU SOME MORE TESTING FROM DIAGRAMS I AM TRYING TO MAKE YOU

I SORTA NEED TO CONCENTRATE ON MY "BATTLE PLAN"---AND NOT GET SIDE-TRACKED!......AGAIN BEAR WITH ME, I'M HAVING TO MAKE MY STUFF FROM SCRATCH WITH YOUR WIRING ISSUE (MY '79 DIAGRAM IS NOT CLOSE ENOUGH WITH "IGNITION")

OK, ANSWER AWAY!........THEN WAIT FOR ME TO RESPOND!

DON'T WORRY--I WILL RETURN!

THE MEDIC

I'M STILL AT IT

TAKING A BREAK

I JUST REMEMBERED ANOTHER QUESTION YOU ASKED

THERE WILL BE SEVERAL OR MANY WIRES UNDER YOUR DASH THAT ARE DANGLING. THEY ARE FOR OPTIONS THAT MAY HAVE BEEN AVAILABLE TO YOUR JEEP, LIKE:

FLOOR LIGHTING (ON EITHER END OF THE DASH, JUST UNDERNEATH, THE ROTATION OF THE LIGHT SWITCH WOULD HAVE TURNED THEM ON LIKE A DOME LIGHT

CLOCK

TACHOMETER

CIGARETTE LIGHTER

RADIO

A/C

ETC

I FIGURED IT MIGHT WORRY YOU THAT YOU THOUGHT THEY MAY HAVE BEEN CONNECTED SOMEWHERE. YOU MAY EVEN SEE THEM IN A WIRE DIAGRAM

I SCANNED A '79 DIAGRAM, CLEANED IT UP

I ALWAYS HAD A PROBLEM READING THE CJ DIAGRAMS IN THE REPAIR MANUALS. FINALLY I SCANNED ONE THAT I HAD NOT "CHICKEN SCRATCHED" COLORED MARKERS AND PEN LINES ON THEM. MY BIGGEST PROBLEM WAS WHERE MANY, MANY WIRES RAN PARALLEL TO EACH OTHER, IT WAS REAL EZ TO GET ONTO THE WRONG WIRE WHILE FOLLOWING THEM.

AFTER SCANNING, I TOOK THE TWO HALVES TO "MICROSOFT PAINT" AND COLORED OVER EACH WIRE WITH THE CORRECT COLORS. AFTER A FEW DAYS OF PLAYING WITH THIS. I EMAILED THEM TO THE OFFICE STORE WHERE I HAD THEM ENLARGED. I THEN FITTED THE HALVES TOGETHER, THEM HAD THEM LAMINATE IT FRONT AND BACK.

THE 1979 DIAGRAM "MOSTLY" IS THE SAME FROM '76-'86 (OR A GUIDE). ANY DIFFERENCES ARE USUALLY THE COMPUTER CRAP ADDED IN THE LATTER YEARS (LIKE YOURS, IGNITION STUFF---LIGHTING AND SUCH ARE MOSTLY THE SAME, WITH SOME COLOR CHANGES!) I GO BACK TO THE REPAIR MANUALS, IF I NEED TO REALLY LOOK AT THE NEWER/ LATER CJs.

WITH THE THINGS I DEAL WITH MOSTLY, MY "GIANT DIAGRAM" IS THE TICKET! I WISH I HAD DONE IT YEARS AGO. 'COURSE TILL THREE YEARS AGO, I HAD NO CLUE HOW TO USE THE COMPUTER.

I TOOK AN EXCERPT FROM MY DIAGRAM FOR THE WIPERS---AFTER YOU SEND ME YOUR RESULTS---YOU CAN "PONDER OVER IT" YOUR DASH SWITCH MAY BE DIFFERENT, MAY NOT BE EXPENSIVE). WHILE YOU WAIT ON ME TO SORTA TRACE OUT YOUR '85 DIAGRAM (AT LEAST THE PORTIONS WE WILL NEED) AND LABEL WHAT TO CHECK.I NEED THEM LAST RESULTS! I CAN WAIT!

YOU ARE THE FASTEST RESPONDER TO ME SO FAR, YOU FOLLOW MY LOUSY DIRECTIONS REALLY WELL AND PICK UP ON STUFF FAST! IT USUALLY TAKES A GOOD WHILE TO GET THIS FAR ALONG

THE MEDIC

I WILL BE SENDING YOU A PRIVATE MESSAGE 2 MIN AFTER THIS POSTS

TO FIND MESSAGES, GO TO THE TOP OF THIS PAGE. CLICK ON "YOUR NAME". WHEN THE PAGE POPS UP, LOOK OVER TO THE LEFT

TO ANSWER YOU QUESTIONS

1) ARE YOU SURE THE FUSIBLE LINKS ARE NOT IN THE LINES NOW?

THEY WILL BE ON THE SMALLER WIRES THAT ARE AGAINST THE BATTERY CABLE LUG ON THE SOLENOID POST---THERE SHOULD BE "HEAT SHRINK" WHERE THE FUSIBLE LINK ENDS AND THE REGULAR WIRE BEGINS. THEY ARE NORMALLY LESS THAN 6 INCHES LONG

THEY ARE NOT NORMALLY MARKED, THEY JUST LOOK LIKE INSULATED WIRE

IF YOU EVER MESS SOMETHING UP AND SUSPECT YOU BLEW ONE

A) IT'LL BURN IN HALF

B)IT WILL LOOK BLISTERED

C) IT MAY LOOK FINE, IF IT WAS BLISTERED (B). OR NOT, THE INTERNAL WIRE WILL BE FRIED. IF YOU TUG ON THE WIRE, THE INSULATION WILL STRETCH OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND

D) IF IT HOLDS FIRM WITH THE TUGGING, MOST LIKELY IT IS FINE

E) YOU CAN ALWAYS DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY, STAB A STRAIGHT/TEE PIN INTO THE REGULAR WIRE. RUN A CONTINUITY TEST FROM THE SOLENOID POST TO THE "PIN"

IF YOU DO INSTALL THEM, BUTT SPLICING IS FINE, I SOLDERED MINE IN (ON "WILLY"), THEN SLID HEAT SHRINK OVER IT THAT I HAD PUT OVER THE WIRE 1ST, THEN SHRUNK IT OVER THE SOLDER

2) PUMP THE GEAR CAVITY FULL OF GREASE USING YOUR GREASE GUN/ OR USE VASOLINE--THEN PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER. NOT SO MUCH GREASE THAT IT ALL SQUOOSHES OUT AND MAKES A MESS

3) WIPE OFF THE GOOP--WITH A TUBE OF DIELECTRIC GREASE--SQUEEZE IT INTO EACH FEMALE--SMEAR IT ON THE MALE ENDS, A STIFF BRISTLED BRUSH (SIMILAR TO A 1/4 OR 3/8 WIDE PAINT BRUSH), WORKS WELL

4) GAUGES--I ALREADY SENT THE LINK FOR THE TEMP AND THE FUEL

TEARING INTO IT IS EZ, UN-CRIMP THE BEZEL AND A COUPLE OF SCREWS ON THE BACK

THE ONLY THING TO WATCH IS KEEPING THE THE ELECTRICAL STUDS CENTERED IN THE HOLES (WHICH YOU CANNOT SEE ONCE YOU INSTALL THE CARDBOARD BACKING LOOKING STUFF. EXPOSED ON THE BACK)

WHAT I DO FROM THE "GET-GO" IS TRACE AROUND THE "CARDBOARDY STUFF" WITH A MARKER, BEFORE I DISASSEMBLE THE UNIT. THEN I CENTER THE "CARDBOARDY STUFF" BACK UP IN MY "TRACE", AND THEN TIGHTEN THE NUTS UP THAT HOLD THE GAUGES IN PLACE. THIS SHOULD KEEP THE STUDS FROM TOUCHING METAL

LASTLY. CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE GLASS GOOD, BEFORE YOU CRIMP IT BACK TOGETHER. NOTHING LIKE DRIVING ALONG AND LOOKING AT "SNOT" FROM WHEN YOU SNEEZED INSIDE THE GLASS, OVER THE TOP OF "55"!

LOOK FOR MESSAGE SOON

THE MEDIC