1970 Ford Galaxie carburetor problems

Yeah but I have had no luck finding one, hopefully napa will have the correct one here later today, i'll post back with the results

I went to Napa and was able to get the timing chain, and a good distributor, put everything at top dead and got the chain on properly, then I put it at 4 over tc and got the distributor in facing the number one plug, it started but ran really rough, after a few minutes of running I noticed a large amount of fumes coming from the 5-8 side valve cover, which smelled of straight gas, I removed the valve cover and noticed it didn't have a seal, the previous owner used house caulk to seal it, the head has been taken off recently because it has no build up of sludge what so ever, all I can think to do now is check the push rods, lifter, and if all else fails, the valves, any idea? And it's a 351 windsor 2 barrel carb single vacuum

I set it to top dead, when I put the timing chain on, then after it was all reassembled I set it to 4 ATDC for the distributor, and i'm still not getting compression, i'm almost positive that the rings are still fine, and i'm getting spark to all, I took the valve cover off and noticed it had no seal, just a white sealant type material, I also noticed that all of the rocker arms were in the same position, none were lower or higher than one another, I haven't cranked it with the cover off yet, but it seems that will be my next step, any thoughts?

Well I cranked it with the valve cover off, and all of the rockers seemed to work fine, however they would always return to where they were all lined up with one another, seems to me like all of the lifter and pushrods are in fairly decent shape, but now i'm starting to think that the valves are burnt, and I know it's not a head gasket due to the fact that the oil in the head is black and not milky white

Understandable, it is very difficult to solve problems with somebodies help without them being here, I have yet to check the compression but plan on doing so tomorrow, I cranked the engine with both covers off and all of the valves seemed to open and close properly, I retorqued the rocker arms down to 20 and made sure all of the pushrods were able to move, but it didn't make a difference, right now I am going to tear down the engine back down to the timing chain and double check my work and have more than one person approve that it is 100% set, then i'll reset the distributor and check compression, and check all of the wires and plugs again, and make sure the ignition coil is providing the proper amount of spark, then check compression if it doesn't start like it should, right now that's all I can think to do

Well I did the standard procedure for removing the timing chain cover, I set the engine to top dead, compression, removed the radiator along with hoses, removed the belts, removed the fan, removed the alternator and power steering pump, took off the water pump, then the harmonic balancer, removed the fuel pump, and finally removed the timing chain cover, I inspected the gears and chain (the chain did not have any types of marking or paint) with the engine at top dead center before anything was removed, and nothing moving while I removed everything, the gears were both lined up perfectly, I had 3 people inspect to make sure it was correct, me, and 2 friends, we all agreed it was perfectly aligned, however the distributor was a little bit off, I put everything back together and set the timing to 4 before top dead center, and adjusted the distributor to where it was facing the number one wire, I connected all wires and hoses, and put new seals on the valve covers and installed everything properly, with the timing chain in order and distributor at the right interval, I cranked the engine over, it started immediately then proceeded to die, I adjusted the choke to where it was all the way open, cranked the engine again and it started again, I had to hold the RPM at a relatively high RPM to keep it running, the engine did fine at higher RPM's but if I were to let it go down to below (roughly) 2000 the engine would start to stall, the engine cannot sustain itself on idle, however does fairly well at higher RPM with no backfire and it not running rich, I have yet to check the plugs and wires, or compression, the battery is dead and is on charge, then I mowed the lawn, but that has nothing to do with this lol, and I haven't tried to use starting fluid, however I may do that tomorrow

Well they did have compression when I did a dry test, then on the wet test they dropped to 0 which, and I could be wrong would mean that it had more compression to push past the valves, and I have adjusted it from all the way down to all the way up using half turn but it hasn't done anything, and i'm not quite sure where the vacuum leak could be, it has 1 major vacuum line, 1 coming off of it, and 1 from the carb to the advance on the dist. All the hoses are in good shape

Well the intake is sealed from my understanding, and the base plate on the carb is good, the pcv is getting plenty of vacuum (from what I can feel)

And what I meant was, when it was dry it had some compression correct? Well, when I did the wet test, the compression was increased so much that it was able to push past the valves with more ease if that makes sense, basically it had enough pressure to force it to escape

and I did finish, right before it got dark I might add, i'm on the east cost in the mountains, and i'm terribly sorry to hear that, I didn't want to do it either, but it had to be done lol

I'm in TN, south eastern part, right near knoxville, so not to close but not the farthest away haha

Well I checked the vacuum, got a reading of about 10 when I started it, 15 when I revved it a little, and 20 or so at about half throttle, but any higher and it shot down to near nothing, (this was checked on the line going from the main line attached to the intake to the thermostat housing) and it fluctuated rapidly no matter where it was at