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1970 Ford Galaxie carburetor problems

Tiny
PAPAJOHNSLICE
  • MEMBER
  • 1970 FORD GALAXIE
  • 112,000 MILES
I'm working on a 1970 ford galaxie 500, it has a 351 windsor with a 2 barrel autoline 2100 carb, the carb was acting up, having some starting problems (wasn't a vapor lock) so I rebuilt the carb, had everything precise, intalled it back on the car and and started the engine, the car ran great, wasn't backfiring or anything, drove the car around for a little bit and noticed it wanting to stall any time I came to a complete stop and started to go again, well I knew it was to rich and remembered I had punctured a hole in the fuel filter (huge mistake I know) so I took it down to an auto parts store and put a new filter on it, I went to start it, and would not start, I gave it a little gas during the start and it started right up, I let my foot of the gas and let it idle, well the idle was terrible and then eventually killed itself, I remember I forgot to attach the vacuum line, so I put the line on and tried to start it, but it did the same thing, I checked the pump, and the filter, the line filter is brand new and in the right way, i'm not sure why but it worked fine. Then just stopped, any ideas?
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2013 AT 3:52 PM

64 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Are you sure the fuel pump is working properly? Was this vehicle sitting in storage or anything like that?
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2013 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
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  • 108 POSTS
Seems to be, I tried to light the dipstick and it didn't catch, and I put my finger on the end of the filter while I had somebody crank the car, and there was enough pressure to where I couldn't hold my finger on, not to mention when I disconnected the hose for the filter it was blowing out gas just from pressure
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2013 AT 7:18 PM
Tiny
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  • 108 POSTS
It is extremely fuel rich, got a new carb and installed it, and now the car will hardly start, with the choke open and the throttle all the way open it will barley start at maybe 600 rpm, and stutters profoundly, I really need help on this one, I checked the compression and i'm getting no less than 110 on all cylinders, the pump seems to be fine, and the points are set right, all cylinders are firing properly, I checked all the plugs and wires, the only thing I can really think it might be is a vacuum leak, the old carb had 1 vacuum line attachment and they new one has 2, I have tried closing both of them, having one closed and the other open and both open, I have tried numerous things with the vacuum lines and still nothing, I really need some good help, thank you
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2013 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Have you adjusted the air fuel mixture? Are you sure the float is set properly? Is the fuel in the vehicle fresh?
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2013 AT 7:20 PM
Tiny
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  • 108 POSTS
Brand new fuel, brand new carburetor, everything is factory set, unless it could be something the factory did wrong I don't think I should have to adjust anything on the carburetor, is that what you're recommending?
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2013 AT 7:32 PM
Tiny
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I would recommend adjusting the air fuel mixture
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2013 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
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Alright, my memory is a little shot, that's the 2 screws on the bottom of the carb correct? Should be painted yellow if i'm not mistake, and what if that doesn't work?
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2013 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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There are two screws. One is the air the other is the fuel mixture. Turn both in the entire way and screw them out 1.5 turns. Fine tune from that point.
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Thursday, September 19th, 2013 AT 8:44 AM
Tiny
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I did, it preformed best at about 2 turns each, still not that much of an improvement, but it started earlier when it was cold and ran kind of ruff, but it was able to idle, probably at about 800 or so, which is amazing because it wouldn't idle on it's own yesterday
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Thursday, September 19th, 2013 AT 8:52 AM
Tiny
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Alright I have determined through a few tests, it's a vacuum leak, whenever I pull the throttle back, the vacuum is depleted profoundly, it almost completely looses vacuum when throttle pulled back, i'm thinking vacuum advance, any idea?
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Thursday, September 19th, 2013 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
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That is an easy one to check. Just run a hose to the advance and suck air through it to see if there is a resistance. Also, you can use carb cleaner around the vac hoses. Be careful not to catch it on fire. Lol

As far as the adjustment, is it its best at 2 turns on both? Have you checked engine vacuum? It should be around 17lbs.
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Thursday, September 19th, 2013 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
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Haven't been able to check the vacuum, lost mine and nobody loans them out, probably gonna buy a new one tomorrow and check for leaks, and somebody told me about the tube to the advanced, but it's late and don't wanna wake the neighbors with the loud car, and I might as well check the timing while i'm at it, just in case it jumped on me, I thank you for your help and i'll post the verdict in the morning, Thanks!
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Thursday, September 19th, 2013 AT 7:56 PM
Tiny
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Glad to help. Let me know what you find.
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Friday, September 20th, 2013 AT 6:32 PM
Tiny
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Well here rises a new problem I replaced the distributor because it was cheaper than replacing the advance, I set it to top dead center compression and for some strange reason the distributor would not go in where it should have, the only place it would go in was on the #8 cylinder, instead of the #1, the distributor will only go in one way and it won't fire in that position, I have tried to adjust the distributor back and forth to compensate but have had no luck, any ideas?
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Monday, September 23rd, 2013 AT 8:58 AM
Tiny
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Try pointing the rotor toward #1. If it doesn't drop into place, try moving the crank pulley slightly back and forth while a helper sees if it will drop in.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2013 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
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I got the engine to start but it was running WAY to rough, I had to hold down the throttle to keep it running and even then if I let off, even a little it died, I had a gut feeling that it was something with the compression, it was getting gas and spark, but I didn't know about compression, I checked the compression on cylinders 1-4 it read 120, 110, 110, and 115, but on 5-8 it read 50, 30, 5, and 0 I added oil and tested again 1-4 stayed the same, and 5-8 all dropped down to 0 compression, I think it is the valves because if it were the rings the oil would have increased the compression, correct?
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2013 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
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If you have 0 compression, it has to be a valve stuck open. However, is it like that in all cylinders? Did you replace the timing chain by chance?
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2013 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
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It is only like that on the drivers side of the engine, the other side is completely fine, and no I have not touched the timing chain, that's not something I like to touch unless need be
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2013 AT 9:59 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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If there is no compression on that side, you are going to either have to remove the valve cover to see if there are sticking valves or remove the head. Like I mentioned, if there is 0 PSI compression, you have to have a valve stuck open. Worn rings would still give you some compression. Also, if you had a bad head gasket, you would still have some compression.
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2013 AT 5:29 AM
Tiny
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Well I did have compression until I did a wet test, and I took the timing chain cover off and found the cam skipped a few teeth, not to mention the chain was warn to the point to where I could lift it off the gears, I am going to put it back at top dead, if that doesn't work then I am going to take off the valve cover and look around, and if all else fails I guess the head is next
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Saturday, September 28th, 2013 AT 8:03 AM

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