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Will not crank over

Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 147,743 MILES
So my wires from my alternator and starter to my battery fell onto my EGR valve pipe 3 times with the last causing a small hole to be burnt into the pipe. The car made it home I turned it off and since then its ether cranked but no start or nothing. I have replaced all the wiring from starter and alternator the crankshaft camshaft ignition coil fuel rail harnesses the MAF sensor crankshaft position sensor every single fuse and relay under the dash and hood the plugs and wires the battery the starter the alternator and still nothing. When using a test light nothing under the dash in the fuse box lights up and under the hood in the relay spots only one area in some none in others lights up on the other side the big fuses all but the 1st 2 light up then below that the 1st 6 light up on both sides but the last 5 nothing and the single fuse by the relays f64 nothing. What more can I do to get my car going again? I just barely taped my horn and it went off uncontrollably to where I had to unplug it. I am at a loss what do to do.
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Monday, September 30th, 2019 AT 4:43 PM

31 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

Okay, in the diagrams down below I have included the wiring diagrams of the starting and charging system of the diagrams down below. I have also included a diagram and callout of the Battery Junction Box. If you could please check fuse #8(30A) of the Battery Junction Box. Here is a link below for how to check a fuse, if needed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

Please get back to us with what you find out and we will go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Monday, September 30th, 2019 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
As I said every fuse and relay both under my hood and dash has been replaced with brand new ones. When using a test light on the fuses to see which ones light up the first to the 40 in the 30 do not light up at all. The next 50 40 30 and 20 big ones light up just fine. Then the next 210 the two twenties the 30 and the 15 light up just fine. The bottom tens the five tens does not light up. The 40 does not light up and as far as the relays go in certain spots when I test down inside underneath them once I would light up the rest will not that's all for under the hood for right now. Now I'm going to go under the driver side dash and show you the other one.
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Tuesday, October 1st, 2019 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
I'm not sure what you're asking me to do or what you're telling me is your suggestion to do. But I don't understand wiring diagrams at all. I don't know anybody that does. So maybe there's a way to break it down into dumb dumb woman English to where I can get it. That would help. I just need my car going. Please.
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Tuesday, October 1st, 2019 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, I can do that for you. First of all, when you turn the ignition key, trying to start your vehicle, exactly, what does it do? Nothing at all? Do you hear like a machine gun going off? Do you just hear a click? Or does the engine crank but not start?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Wednesday, October 2nd, 2019 AT 6:42 AM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
When I turn the key now all my dash lights come on I can hear the fuel pump, but no crank no start nothing. Now when it first broke down it would crank no start then it stopped all together doing ether. So I had the alternator rebuilt and replaced my starter and replaced my battery still nothing then one day it tried to crank and sounded awful but nothing since then. Now I have noticed some type of fluid leaking from the front pass tire area which was off the car a while because it was flat and when I tried to push it the other day it would not move at all in neutral or reverse or first nothing.
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

Okay, let's start with the basics. Can you please take a voltage reading across the two battery terminals with a Digital Multi-meter (DMM). If you are unsure how to use a DMM here is a link below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

I have also included a guide below explaining how to read voltage on a DMM in the diagrams down below. Report back with what you find out and we will go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Monday, October 7th, 2019 AT 1:18 AM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
I will try this however even though I am getting no crank no start. I turned the ignition to on flipped on my lights and disconnected the negative cable and everything shut off. Could it mean my alternator has failed again?
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Monday, October 7th, 2019 AT 7:31 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

No. It means that all electrical circuits in your vehicle would have an open in them. Please get back to us with the voltage reading and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Monday, October 7th, 2019 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
I do this test with or without the battery hooked up and are you saying to just test all of the harnesses or specific ones?
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Wednesday, October 9th, 2019 AT 4:11 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

At this point we just want you to take a voltage reading across your battery terminals. Set the DMM to DC Volts and put the black lead on the negative battery terminal and the red lead on the positive terminal and report back with the reading.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, October 10th, 2019 AT 11:01 AM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
Okay, I am about to go do the volt test on my battery, but in your how to in says engine off then on and the car wont start so how do I proceed from that point?
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Thursday, October 10th, 2019 AT 4:06 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

If your vehicle has a spent battery then nothing afterwards will matter so we first need to determine the state of your battery. Could you please get a voltage reading across the battery terminals and report back with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, October 10th, 2019 AT 10:27 PM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
Okay, so I went out there and my volt meter has a few settings on DC I tried them all and soon as I put the leads on it on any setting for DC it made them very hot and gave no reading. So I brought in my battery put it on my charger and it say 13.6.
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Friday, October 11th, 2019 AT 7:23 AM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
So what are your thoughts now and my dmm has several dv settings? Its a innova dmm. I tried it on all settings and it got the meter ends very hot fast and gave no reading. I was supposed to touch the terminals on the battery not the actual terminals right?
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Saturday, October 12th, 2019 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Sorry for the delay. Your DMM should be set on the 20 volt DC setting. This is because an automotive battery, fully charged should have 12.6 Volts. Six cells, each cell containing 2.1 Volts. You can touch the battery posts preferably, but you can touch the terminals as well if the battery is hooked up. There should be absolutely no reason for the DMM probes to get hot.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Saturday, October 12th, 2019 AT 2:41 PM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
Okay, I am going to video it tomorrow and send it to you. But how does a ignition bypass work?
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Saturday, October 12th, 2019 AT 9:17 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Your vehicle is equipped with Ford's Passive Anti Theft System [PATS] which uses a transponder in your vehicle's ignition key and a transceiver ring which is placed behind and around your ignition lock cylinder. If the Power-train Control Module [PCM] or "computer" does not receive the proper code from the ignition key your vehicle will not start. There is no way to do an ignition bypass on your vehicle. If you want to replace any PATS component or PCM, you will have to have your vehicle's ignition keys reprogrammed to the new component by a locksmith or at the dealership.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Sunday, October 13th, 2019 AT 8:54 AM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
Okay, I was just curious on that, but I went out and I did the dmm on dc on all the dc points and my battery is reading 12.45 on all dc points. Now what do I do?
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, that's good. Your battery is about 75% charged, so it's not the problem and Fuse 8 is okay. So let's work our way back to the starter from the battery. Next on the list is going to be the ignition switch. In the diagrams down below I have included the factory troubleshooting guide for your vehicle's ignition switch. Please go through this guide and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 10:16 PM
Tiny
VERONICA WIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 144 POSTS
So do I do these tests to the actual ignition itself or to the fuse box? I did however just take off the alternator and had it tested and it was good. My starter is brand new in fact it hasn't started since it was replaced. I was looking back at our previous messages and the one with the fuse box under the hood that you displayed is similar to mine but not exact. So I am lost on where my number 8 fuse would be or is. I do not know if this is even relevant at this time also my ignition has a rubber ring around it that has got a bend in it and it wont flatten out. Is this a possible issue? Also the other day I accidentally hit my horn and now it wont go off. So had to unplug it. What are your thoughts on this as well?
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Monday, October 14th, 2019 AT 11:53 PM

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