Will not start after replacing both the accessory and drive belts

Hi,

The belt tension isn't causing the issue. I need to know a bit more info. When you say it isn't starting now, is the starter still engaging but the engine failing to start, or does nothing happen when you turn the key to start?

If the starter isn't turning, take a look through this link and follow the procedure for testing the starter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Next, if the starter does work and the vehicle just won't start, take a look through this link and let me know if it helps:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Both of these links are general in design because of different models. So, let me know what you find, exactly what is happening, and what has been checked so far.

Take care,

Joe

Wow!!! This is fantastic information! Thank you so much. I will get started first thing in the morning troubleshooting with what you've provided. It's exactly the information I was looking for but didn't know how or what to ask for. I will keep you posted and be back with any questions I might have as I go along.

Truly... thank you for the direction!!!
Jess B.

Update: so I began by checking the fuses on the panel inside the cab located on the driver side. The fuses labeled inj and starter did not light up on either side of the fuse when checked with a test light. However when I pulled them upon inspection they both are intact and appeared to be in good shape. I've included an image. However I cannot seem to find my starter relay but I don't know if that's the next step to take in diagnosing the problem. Where do I go from here?

Sorry I guess you get to look at those fuses twice. Lol

So you tested for power on both of those fuses and found none? Was that with the key on? How about with the key held in the start position?
If all you did was replace the belts I sort of suspect you accidently bumped a connector and caused a problem. Or as the belt came apart it damaged something.
As for a starter relay, your truck doesn't have one. It has the starter interlock on the clutch and it's relay as well as a cutout relay if it has the optional anti theft. I attached the wiring diagram so you can see the circuit. A fast way to see if the issue is on the starter side or in the switch side would be to pull the clutch interlock relay and jumper between terminals 3 and 5, then turn the key. Hold the clutch in and be sure it's in neutral to avoid any issues. If it now turns over you know the ignition switch, wiring and starter are okay.
Next would be to use a test light at the clutch switch just to be sure it didn't fail just for spite. One side of the switch (black wire) is grounded, it passes that ground through it when the pedal is down, so if you connect the test light to power you should get it to light on both terminals with the clutch pedal down.
Now if that works go back up to the interlock relay and connect the test light to battery power. It should light on terminals 1 and 5 if someone holds the clutch pedal down. If all of this works the issue isn't the circuitry, starter, ignition switch or interlock switch. It could be a bad relay though, especially if these all check out.

If it has the anti theft option it could be related to it as it cuts the starter circuit between the clutch switch and the relay. If your testing shows the switch good but the test light doesn't come on at terminal 1 with the clutch pressed it could be the anti-theft relay. To test it, you could simply pull it and jumper between pins 3 and 4. That completes the circuit and would show if the anti-theft relay or system is the issue.

Update: I tested the clutch interlock relay and the relay itself tests fine. Where it plugs into has power but I wasn't able to conduct the test where I turn the key to the start position, press the clutch in and test terminal 3 and 5 to see if the test light came on because I was by myself. However I did replace the one hundred amp main battery fuse as well as the 40 amp battery fuse because by comparison they didn't look like the others. They weren't broken per se but they didn't look the same as their neighboring fuses. I checked the fuses underneath the driver side – again the air compressor fuse has one half of the fuse that is lighting up with a test light. My starter fuse doesn't light up at all however, the fuse is in good shape.

On a positive note is sounding much better whenever I try to start it. Whenever I turn the key over it is cranking. It is turning over it's just not firing up. Where to go to from here?

If it is cranking, then we need to check to see if it has spark and fuel to the engine. Do me a favor. When it is cranking, see if it starts for a couple of seconds using starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we know it is a fuel-related issue. If it makes no difference, then it is likely ignition-related.

Or, here are two links that show how to check fuel pressure and for ignition spark:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Also, since this just happened when the belts were replaced, I need you to confirm that the crankshaft position sensor is still attached. This is a long shot simply because it is located in the rear of the engine, but anything is possible. Also, confirm nothing has been disconnected from the distributor, The ignition coil/power transistor is located in the distributor.

Let me know.

Joe

See crank sensor location below.