Will not start

1994 DODGE DAKOTA
1 MILES • 3.9L • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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LEROY399
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I recently rebuilt the engine and transmission. It has been done for over 2 months and ran good. Until a month ago it cut off and wouldn't start. But now it will start and run then cut it off then it wouldn't start and sometimes it would run and cut off. I have replaced the ECM, coil, pick-up and replaced distributor cap and rotor and crank sensor and nox sensor, alternator, all relays, engine harness and ignition switch. When it runs it runs good.
Apr 10, 2022 at 10:20 AM
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STRAILER
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It sounds like you have a bad fuel pump, when the engine will not run can you spray starting fluid into the intake will it run? If so, I would test the fuel pump here is a guide to help and the steps on how to change the pump out with diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
Apr 11, 2022 at 5:01 AM
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LEROY399
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The fuel pump does prime when switch is on. And I have 40 PSI with switch on.
Apr 11, 2022 at 5:22 AM
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LEROY399
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Switch on I have 38PSI and when engine runs It jumps from 38 to 45 back in forth. Will not start with starting fluid.
Apr 11, 2022 at 10:35 AM
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STRAILER
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Okay, it sounds like you need a new ASD relay, here is the location so you can swap it out and a guide to help test it if you like:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
Apr 12, 2022 at 5:04 AM
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LEROY399
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I've already swapped relays and bought all new relays. It has voltage on all legs until it starts. Then it moves power from 1 leg to the other leg on relay.
Apr 12, 2022 at 5:33 AM
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STRAILER
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Are there any codes?

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

Let me know. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so I can see the engine cranking over? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.
Apr 12, 2022 at 5:40 AM
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LEROY399
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I get code 54 now and I have replaced the pickup and crank sensor.
Apr 12, 2022 at 7:53 AM
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LEROY399
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And cam sensor.
Apr 12, 2022 at 7:56 AM
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LEROY399
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I don't know if you can hear fuel pump run but it does come on and you can hear what it does.
Apr 12, 2022 at 8:18 AM
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LEROY399
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I get 8.92 volts on orange with switch on and 0 volts with switch off and nothing on the other 2 wires on pick up under distributor cap.
Apr 12, 2022 at 8:23 AM
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LEROY399
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I get power at initial start at coil but no fire to coil when hooked up.
Apr 12, 2022 at 9:35 AM
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LEROY399
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FYI, I have replaced everything twice from AutoZone and Rock Auto.
Apr 12, 2022 at 12:08 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I noticed you haven't been contacted for a few days. Have you been able to make any progress?

If not, I need you to check something for me. From the power distribution box under the hood (Fuse D / 30 Amp) is a red wire with a white tracer. This powers the ASD, coil. and fuel pump relay.

That particular wire has a splice in it that is known to fail. Usually, corrosion causes the issues. From memory, the splice is approximately two feet from the box. You will need to open up the main harness to locate it. However, based on everything that has been done, this is a good suspect.

I attached the wiring schematic below and circled the splice I'm referring to. Try to locate and inspect that splice.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
Apr 15, 2022 at 1:45 PM
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LEROY399
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I have replaced all the factory connectors with heat shrink soldered connectors.
Apr 15, 2022 at 10:39 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Okay. We need to go with the camshaft position sensor. I realize the part has been replaced, but I suspect the circuit is where the problem exists. If PCM does not sense input from the cam position sensor (which is what code 54 indicates), the PCM will deactivate the ASD and fuel pump relays, interrupting voltage to the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and the ignition coil.

I attached diagnostics below related to the code. Take a look through them and let me know what you find or what you have already found.

Joe

See pic below.
Apr 16, 2022 at 10:05 AM
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LEROY399
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Okay, I just got tired of working on it and let someone else work on it and it ended up been the ECM which makes the third time now.so far everything is good.
May 10, 2022 at 6:21 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Thanks for the update. Leroy, pay attention to the voltmeter in the truck. The alternator is regulated by the PCM. If there is a problem with the alternator, I've seen them take out the PCM.

Regardless, thanks for letting me know. Also, please feel free to come back anytime in the future if you have questions, you are always welcome here.

Take care,

Joe
May 10, 2022 at 12:11 PM
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LEROY399
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Can you help? I have fault code 44 on now. It has a new pin and new alternator. Can't fine any trouble shooting steps.
May 21, 2022 at 4:50 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

The code indicates an issue with the battery temperature/voltage signal (out of range) l. This sensor communicates with the PCM to indicate how much voltage is needed to regulate the battery, since the voltage regulator is integral with the PCM, the temperature of the battery is used to determine how much charging the battery receives.

I tried to find a pic of the sensor itself but can't find one for a 1994. The last pic below shows one on a 2001 Dakota which should be similar.

Now, with this code, the manual indicates one of three possible causes, the sensor, wiring, or the PCM.

If you look at pic 1, I provided the definition of the code. Pic 2 is the diagnostic chart for it. Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
May 21, 2022 at 2:39 PM
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LEROY399
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The PCM has been changed out with a remanufactured PCM and I don't see a sensor under the battery or battery tray or any harness under there.
May 21, 2022 at 10:19 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I dug deeper into the code and found there are three different codes 44, 44A and 44B. Two of them seem relevant because there is one specific to natural gas vehicles.

If you look at the first four pics below, they are the diagnostics for 44A. The remaining pics are specific to 44B.

Take a look through them and let me know if you are comfortable performing them. Also, start with 44A first then proceed to 44B if needed.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
May 22, 2022 at 1:10 PM
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LEROY399
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Okay, I went out the next day to drive it and there were no codes and it's been a week and still no codes. I bought a new tail shaft speed sensor it's a 35 tooth but I can't fine anything on how to set speed correct.
May 25, 2022 at 8:55 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Is that the same number of teeth that the original one?

As far as adjusting it, you can't. It works by producing a signal to the PCM. The PCM provides an 8v signal to the sensor which is a hall effect sensor that produces a magnetic field when turned. As the sensor turns, the magnet rotates and creates a magnetic field that opens and closes the contacts 8 times per revolution. That info is received by the PCM and determines the speed.

If you have a sensor with a different number of teeth, it will spin slower or faster than the OEM and the PCM identifies it as the speed of travel. See pic below

Let me know.

Joe
May 25, 2022 at 12:01 PM
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