Will not start after replacing the fuel pump

Tiny
MWL195ZLT1
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Didn't work. Pulled the wiring from the fuel system and laid down new wiring. Examined old wiring and did not find a scrape, break or rust in it, but it is absolutely unbelievable - runs great. Dyno'd at 366hp. Guess someone worked on the bottom end. Going to put headers and a nit kit to get near or just over 400. Be fine for daily driver. Thanks for the sounding board.
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Thursday, January 6th, 2022 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Sounds great. Was it the wiring to the pump that was the problem? Interestingly, the actual wire covered with the rubber insulator can break inside and the insulation looks perfect. I wonder if that is what happened?

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, January 6th, 2022 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
MWL195ZLT1
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Curious too, so I stripped back the insulator wrap from pump head going forward and didn't find any breaks. There were a couple of flat spots where wire retainers were tight around the wire. I remain baffled but happy that it is running.
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Friday, January 7th, 2022 AT 9:11 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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I'm glad you got it running as well. It sounds like it's running really well, too.

As far as the wire, I have had similar issues where the internal wire has broken but the insulation wasn't damaged, so it was very hard to find. The only indicator was there was no continuity from end to end on the wire until it was moved around. It can be very frustrating.

Regardless, I'm glad it's fixed. Take care of yourself and feel free to come back anytime in the future. You're always welcome here.

Joe
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Friday, January 7th, 2022 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
MWL195ZLT1
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Just as a courtesy (since the car started the same systems all over again two days later) I want you to know that the basic problem was in testing methods of the ignition control module and the coil. Even though we had power on the 12v line, and the grounds were good we failed to establish what ohms readings we were getting met the thresholds necessary to sustain constant power flow. The ohms reading on the original coil read 4.2 and on the new coil it read 4.28. Looking at specs in the service manual revealed that this reading was within tolerance. On a hunch (and connecting with a local speed shop who agreed) I went I got a coil for a 95 vette and tested it with a reading of 10.1 ohms. Install the vette coil and the car started immediately. Apparently the 95 Z28 and the 95 vette have the same power specs. Moral - if you have an engine that is the same engine used in a vette, use vette components your Z28.
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Friday, January 21st, 2022 AT 12:42 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,650 POSTS
Hi,

Thanks for that update. It is interesting that the specifications indicated you were good but in reality, it wasn't. Regardless, thank you for the update. I'm sure it will help others.

Take care of yourself,

Joe
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Friday, January 21st, 2022 AT 5:51 PM

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