Will not start after replacing the fuel pump

There is power at the coil with key on. I do not have a scanner. There is power at the injectors. I am going to check all the grounds to neg terminal next, maybe that will turn up something. I get a fuel filter today and will install it. I haven't tested for any vacuum as I can't imagine it would prevent spark. Thanks again

Oh, there is no security light lit on dash.

Fuses are all good and reseated. The ICM is brand new but put the old one back in just in case, but no change, just a continuing turnover. There is spark going to the coil but none out! Testing negative post and one on the positive post of the coil results in 1.5ohms. Put the old coil back just to try. Checking both from side terminal and one in the center high tension terminal gives just above 8k ohms. One change has occurred when the key is turned on - security lights up and then goes out and the check engine light stays on. I borrowed a reader. I plugged it in and turned the key on. The reader goes through a self-check, checks the VIN and starts counting in percentages, quitting at 50% and displaying error message that it cannot continue - no other message. I am truly stumped. I got the PCM (flashed to my VIN) from FlashMasters off eBay. When I got it, plugged it in and the car fired right up, took it for a 10-15 minute ride and noticed the car did not get up to power and idled rough and would shut off. Pulled into the garage waiting on the new fuel pump. After the fuel pump was installed is when it wouldn't start. Stumped!

Distributor moves okay with the key and pressure at rail is 50PSI and holds. I will run down the DTCs in the morning. Thanks

Tried a different reader and it quit after 50%, so I am returning the PCM and having them send another. They will diagnose the return and let me know what went wrong, etc. Will post more later. Oh we installed the steering column with the correct nr 9 resistor key, and it made no difference. Another pointer that its the PCM VATS failure.

The flashmaster tech says my friends Hypertech device is not a reader but a programmer and must be defective as the PCM I returned no longer responds. Waiting on the new PCM. Will update later.

Will do.

I got the new PCM today. Connected it and turned the key on only to get a solid security light (not blinking). Went ahead and tried to turn it over. No fire. Disconnected the battery. Waited five minutes and tried again. This time it fired right up, started it down the driveway to ease it around for 20 minutes as Chevrolet suggests for the PCM to set. Halfway down the driveway I had to give it a little gas to avoid bogging down in the sand - it quit as soon as I actuated the gas pedal and would not refire. Towed it home, washed my hands and sat stupefied and sent you this. The resistor on the original key was 2.8ohms. The key set was lost by the last owner who had a 2.8 resistor inline from the ignition to the PCM, which we were previous to the gas pump exchange firing a-okay. So, with the new PCM which was flashed to the VIN of the vehicle, could the imbedded resistor setting be different than before making the 2.8 inline resistor incorrect? Too many things for my pea brain.

Oh, the sunshine and 77 degrees will make for an excellent round today. Got a list of the keys numbered with their ohms. Will go up the chart an try all settings. I have already got through to 3.0. Will post later.

Weekend off to the beach. Just got back. Will update tomorrow night about getting a VATS and PCM from a 95 Z28 that got sandwiched broadside, but still starts every time. My friend is going to pull everything from the wreck while I pull it from my car.