Every now and then when I turn it on it turns over, but then it dies?

I found a misplaced clamp on a large hose from the air horn to the valve cover. I don't know if this created a vacuum leak or not but before I try the IAC I'll drive the car tomorrow. Today after a thirty minute drive home it stalled pulling into my garage and would not immediately restart. After a couple minutes it restarted and seems to run fine. I also think that I can remove the IAC without removing the throttle bore.I'll keep you informed. Thank you.

It seemed fine and then still did the same thing. It acts like there is water in the gas upon startup. Chugging. Once I accelerate it's fine. Then it started stalling randomly while driving. It would not immediately restart. After a few minutes it would restart and run apparently fine. I bought the crank sensor and checked its resistance. I also checked mine from the car. One had 550 ohms and one had 615 ohms. New and old respectively. Then I tried to test voltage at the plug. Got nothing with the key on except one time got 1.9 V on one wire. Tested again and got nothing. Started car without sensor connected and then started car with crank sensor out altogether. How is that possible? A shop said that it could be getting its signal from cam sensor.

I read the codes and even after it stalled while driving there was no code present? Where does the sensor get its voltage supply from?

Any help you can offer is appreciated as I am sort of stumped.

I have not installed the new crank sensor in case I want to return it.

Thank you for your help again.

I have a new piece of information. I still can't get a voltage read but with the crank sensor out I get a code for it.

Not yet, I put the crank sensor in, cleared the code and will drive it tomorrow and see what happens. I read the crank sensor is known to fail when hot. There was also a recall on it and the cam sensor but for later years than mine.

I took the crank sensor back out because it gave me two codes. I put the original one back and no codes. I will check the IAC this weekend because the car is stalling at stoplights and acting like it is not getting fuel? Could this be as simple as a fuel filter?

I could not check the IAC because I could only loosen the top screw and the bottom one feels like the head is damaged. They should have used hex head bolts instead of phillips screws. I will have to remove the throttle body to get the IAC out. Problem there is the cap screws were to tight and I didn't want to break them. What I did find was oil inside the distributor and it probably interfered with the optical pickup of the cam sensor. I sprayed it good with contact cleaner and it seems to be fine again. I'll probably have the replace the o-ring on the shaft of the distributor soon.

Thank you for your help and I won't hesitate to reach out in the future.