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Every now and then when I turn it on it turns over, but then it dies?

Tiny
FLICK.AH
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
A couple weeks ago, I noticed my car felt sluggish, it did not accelerate like it used to, and when I push pedal the rpm's so not climb as high as it used to, and it is starting to eat gas, like a v6/v8. Every now and then when I turn it on it turns over, but then it dies. I think it is the throttle body, but I am not to sure. Can anyone help me?
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Thursday, July 7th, 2016 AT 10:37 AM

33 Replies

Tiny
RENEE L
  • ADMIN
  • 1,260 POSTS
This is common when you have a vacuum leak or the throttle bore needs to be serviced here are three guides to go over when fixing the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Thursday, October 24th, 2019 AT 5:34 PM
Tiny
OMAR MUKHTAR QURESHI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2006 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 153,856 MILES
I am encountering a very strange issue since past week. The engine sometimes stops by itself while either running or stopping at the signal. Have sent to few garages and until now did not get a proper diagnosis. Garage one said, issues with the fuel pump and need to replace. Garage two said, issue with the fuel tank pressure and fuel tank need to replaced. That is because the vent for releasing air pressure is blocked. Garage three said fuel pressure regulator need to replace. The car is running very smooth, just that sometimes out of sudden the engine will stop and after few ignitions will start again. Kindly please someone advise me on this. Thank you.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

It sounds like they all are indicating a fuel delivery issue.

What was the fuel pressure that led them to a fuel pump? If they did not check it, then they guessed. That is never good. you need specific reasons for the presumption that the fuel pump has failed.

I would start by going to a shop that will do a proper diagnostic not based on a code but on proper checks for spark and fuel. Once the failure is determined, then get an estimate and let us know the results. Then we can further help you.

Roy

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OMAR MUKHTAR QURESHI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you for your prompt reply. However I have no idea if they check the fuel pressure and based on what they all zeroed in to the fuel delivery issue.
What would be your suggestions? Shall is go for a fuel pressure check and spark test. What could be the possible reasons of this issue?

Thank you
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Yes, as I stated, you need someone to do a proper diagnostic that will tell you the exact failure. Reading a code means nothing but tell you an area of failure, not the failure itself.

Roy
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OMAR MUKHTAR QURESHI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks. It was the dirty throttle bore I cleaned it and the problem is gone.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISP1963
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • 145,000 MILES
Car starts but quits 4-5 second after starting and will start again and again but will not stay running
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hello

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak or the idle air control valve/auxiliary air control valve is not working right. Here is a guide to help us see whats going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TARABAN
  • MEMBER
  • 0 POST
Thanks for the guide, I cleaned my throttle body fixed the issue.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSHUA808
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2001 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,000 MILES
I'll warm it up and start to go shifts to second and wont pass 2,000 rpm same in third then sputters when I come to a stop. After about twenty minutes of driving it runs fine? Thinking shift solenoids?
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey JOSHUA808,

A great place to start would be to check for codes, guide below to check for engine management codes but the same process will give you transmission codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Also another thing to check initially will be the transmission fluid level/condition.

This is the always the first thing to do with an automatic transmission. Faults caused by fluid level, poor fluid condition and blocked transmission fluid filters are very common and you have to rule this out before diving into the control system.

There will be instructions on how to check/top up the fluid in your owners manual.
Generally you check the level with the engine at operating temperature, engine running, transmission in P.

If you have to top it up start with small increments and work your way up to avoid over filling. Make sure you are using the right fluid for your vehicle.

If the fluid looks dark and you have not had a fluid and filter change done then you will need to do this and retest.

Regards, Joe
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSHUA808
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The code that came up before I changed the fluid and filter was gear two incorrect ratio.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSHUA808
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The code that came up before I changed the fluid n filter was gear 2 incorrect ratio
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey Joshua808,

After changing the fluid and filter and making sure the level is good have you cleared the codes and retested?

Regards, Joe
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSHUA808
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Yes, I have catalytic converter came up too. Decarbonized it and it ran okay for a few days.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
Hey JOSHUA808,

So what codes do you have now?

Just the catalytic converter, which code do you have?

When you say you decarbonized it was that with a fuel additive.

Did the fault completely clear?

Regards, Joe
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSHUA808
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Seafoam the the vacuum lines. Have not had a chance to scan it since that. The transmission does jump into second and lags into third even after its warmed up. I put trans tuna in it. Pretty sure it's the shift solenoids. And going to change them both and see where it gets me.
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOETECHPRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 705 POSTS
JOSHUA808,

If after changing the solenoids you still have problems clear the codes down, give it a road test and recheck the codes.

Let us know how it goes after the solenoid replacement.

Regards, Joe
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF HERMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 439 POSTS
  • 1996 NISSAN ALTIMA
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
A while ago my car started running very rough upon startup and was fine after a few miles. The other day it stalled twice when I first started it in the morning. Then it almost stalled while driving without much throttle. The engine light came on so I read the codes and it is 8 long flashes and two short ones indicating a Crank Position Sensor. Reading about this sensor it says this would not cause my problem. It's purpose is to detect misfire. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). This is what your vehicle uses to get air into the engine when your throttle plate is closed. Your vehicle's Power-train Control Module (PCM) uses an electric duty cycle to open and close an internal valve that controls the amount of air going to the engine. When these valves go bad your engine will not idle and stall at idle. I have included a few links for you to go to below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

I have also included in the diagrams down below a troubleshooting guideline as to what to check when you have this problem. I have also included factory troubleshooting chart for the Idle Air Control Valve. Please go through the guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out, please.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Friday, June 25th, 2021 AT 12:49 PM (Merged)

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