Vehicle stalls after driving fifteen to twenty minutes?

Tiny
COBRAKING
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 OLDSMOBILE CIERA
  • 3.3L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 128,000 MILES
Car runs and starts good, but shuts off after fifteen to twenty minutes of driving. It then starts and runs in park. But shuts off when it is put in gear. Leave it set and cool off and it will run again for another fifteen to twenty minutes. Runs good, lots of power on street or highway until it shuts off. Then it sounds like a trains running over you.
Friday, August 31st, 2018 AT 1:04 PM

115 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

This type of issue can be the result of several different things. However, most times it is related to the fuel system or ignition system. If you had it in my shop, the first thing I would check would be the crankshaft position sensor. Take a look at this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

After you read from the above link, I feel you will understand why I suspect that part. This sounds like a typical heat related issue causing the sensor to fail.

With that in mind, I need you to check if there is a trouble code stored in the computer. It is easy to do. However, we could get a false positive. Read through this link. It discusses how to get the codes from the computer. A simple paper clip will do the job.
______________________

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

If you find a code, let me know what it is. If it is the crankshaft position sensor, I attached a picture of it so you can easily locate it on the engine. Try going over this guide as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, August 31st, 2018 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
FRUSTRATED&CONFUSED
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1992 OLDSMOBILE CIERA
  • 133,000 MILES
My father has a 1992 Oldsmobile cutlass Ciera S that is having an issue and I cant figure out what would cause it. You will be driving down the road and without warning the car will shut down without any kind of warning and will not restart for about 30 mins now I have checked the fuel filter for any kind of blockage and found none, I have also had the coil pack tested and it is fine, I did notice that the alternator gets really hot and so does the power lead to the alternator I have checked the wire for any cracks or anyway it could ground out and have found none. I am completely stumped and frustrated any advice you could give me would be greatly appreciated thanks.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
What is the alternator output voltage at the main terminal on the alternator? When the car stops can you check to see if you still have spark?
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FRUSTRATED&CONFUSED
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I'm not sure of the alternator voltage I will check that in the morning but as far as the spark when it dies i'm not getting any spark at all
but if I let it cool down for about 20 mins it usually starts right back up
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOSELOPEZ1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
It can be a weak gas pump 2 so check that
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNYHORNER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1992 OLDSMOBILE CIERA
Engine stalls out going down the road have to set for 15-20 min. Before it will start back up it will run for about 3-4 miles before it stalls the first time after that it will stall about every mile or less
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I would start with a fuel pressure test when this happens. It sounds like a failing fuel pump

roy
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNYHORNER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Not the fuel pressure it like someone just turns off the switch and I changed the ignition module and it is still stalling out I was not getting any fire to the plugs
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAISYBITC1
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
I had this happen to my 1990 olds cutlas cierra last year it was the mass airflow sensor
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DINERDASH2001
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1992 OLDSMOBILE CIERA
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 40,000 MILES
Hi. When car is cold it starts and drive good but soon as car warms up it sputters, gets ready to cut off, black smoke comes out back and the temperature light comes on and the check engine light., It will cut off while driving. Any help would be appreciative. The car only has 40,000 miles on it. I have had some work done on it but mechanic can not find the problem. Thanks
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Check mil codes. You can check those yourself. Your coolant temp sensor or wiring circuit could cause some issues, hard to tell without some testing? Let us know about the codes.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DINERDASH2001
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank U for your answer I was also told it could be the catalytic converter that it might be dirty or stopped up. What do U think.
Again Thank U
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
A clogged exhaust will kill it.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
  • 1992 OLDSMOBILE CIERA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
Okay, this problem has happened three times now, I think it happens when the engine warms up. Anyways what's happening is after a little while of driving the car I will be driving along and I will pull up to a stop light and when I am slowing down the car starts to mildly jerk when I press on the brake further it jerks forward abruptly and then when I stop it dies completely. When I am at a stop light I will turn it back on, if I immedeately put it in drive after starting it, it just dies. If I put it in park and rev the engine a bit it will start going again, but then the problem will happen again. Let me know what you think.
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
OK Art, it sounds like the TPS(throttle position)sensor. Is your check engine light on? Let's read the codes: Cross these two terminals as shown with a piece of wire, then turn the key on. Count the flashes, a 22 will flash as 2 flashes then a short pause, then 2 flashes, if more than one code is stored, the pause will be longer. The codes will display three times and end with 12. Write them down and post here. This connector is right under the middle of the dash...


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Pre95GM1_7.jpg

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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Hey merlin, I'm so glad someone replied. Thank you so much. Anyway I looked im my car, granted it is night time and I can't find a flashlight, I couldn't find the terminal port. I did however try starting the car up again and putting it in drive. It's wierd because this has happened a few times, when the car sits for a while it goes back into drive, but when I drive it for awhile the same problem comes back. I will try checking it in the morning, just so you know I am really short on cash and all money saving suggestions I would appreciate so much. Thanks again for replying, let me know what you think.
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Merlin just wanted to add that before you reply next if you can't figure out whats going on with it maybe we can at least try and diagnose exactly whats wrong with it because there is a shop right next to my house that I'm comfortable taking the car that far but I dont want to have them look at it because they want to charge me a hundred dollars just to diagnose the problem. Just wanted to add all that before you take the time to answer back.
Thanks,
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
This test port, called the ALDL is under the dash, screwed right to the bottom edge of the dash, or under the ashtray. Most of the time it's on the driver's side, but it can be on the passenger side. Yours lists it as being left side of dash near steering column.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARTGOODWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Okay I did what you said. The check engine light spit a set of sequences I am going to write them down in sequence order like it blunk 1 then pause then 2 then pause so that would be 1-2, ill write it down lemme kno if this helps.
Okay it went
1-2 1-2 1-2 2-6 2-6 2-6 2-7 2-7 2-7 4-4 4-4 4-4

im not sure if there was one last 4 blinks at the end or not, let me know if you need me to do it again or this is enough.
Thanks again,
Art
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
12 is normal and always displays three times, then the other stored codes display, good job reading it! Here's the scoop.
26. Quad-driver module fault, or no throttle switch input 27. Quad driver module #2 circuit fault, or open throttle switch.
44. Oxygen Sensor reads lean (low voltage of 0.2 or less), or left O2 sensor reading lean.
CODE 26, QUAD-DRIVER CKT, (1 OF 3) Each ECM Quad-Driver has a fault line which is monitored by ECM. ECM compares voltage values of fault line with acceptable values in ECM memory. If ECM senses values other than accepted values, a Code 26 will set. QDM "B" will not set a Code 26. 1. ECM does not know which controlled circuit set Code 26. This tests SERVICE ENGINE SOON light driver and circuit. 2. QDM symptoms: à   TCC inoperative (Code 39). à   Hot light/check gauges light always on, off during bulb check à   Cooling fan always on or will not come on at all. à   Poor driveability due to 100 percent canister purge. DIAGNOSTIC AIDS Coolant temperature sensor, in rare cases, may fail to indicate correct coolant temperature without setting a malfunction code (Code 14 or 15). This could result in turning on hot light without having an overheating condition. It could also result in engine overheating without turning on hot light. Check coolant sensor. See COOLANT TEMPERATURE RESISTANCE TEST table in SENSOR RANGE CHARTS article in this Section. HOT LIGHT OR CHECK GAUGES LIGHT DIAGNOSIS Hot light/check gauges light is powered by 10-amp GAGES fuse. Light will turn on when ECM provides a ground for circuit. If circuit grounds between light and ECM, light will glow anytime ignition is turned on. 1. Turn ignition on with engine off (bulb test). If hot light/check gauges light glows, go to step 3). If hot light/check gauges light does not glow, check following: à   10-amp GAGES fuse. à   Faulty instrument cluster bulb. à   Open circuit between fuse and hot light/check gauges light. 2. Backprobe terminal YF2 at ECM using a test light to battery voltage. Turn ignition on. If test light does not glow, ECM terminal connection is bad or ECM is faulty. If test light glows, turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM connectors. Jumper terminal YF2 to ground. Turn ignition on. If hot light/check gauges light does not glow, check for open circuit between light and ECM. If NOTE: Test numbers refer to numbers on diagnostic chart. NOTE: Models equipped with an indicator cluster have a hot temperature light on dash. Models equipped with a gauge cluster have a check gauges light. These checks assume vehicle is not overheating. Verify proper operation of cooling system before diagnosing hot light/check gauges light. Light does not glow, all circuits (including bulb) are intact and power is available to light, instrument cluster must be replaced. 3. Start engine. If light goes off, no problem is evident. See DIAGNOSTIC AIDS. If light is on, turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM connector. Probe ECM harness terminal YF2 using a test light to battery voltage. If light is off, replace ECM. If light is on, repair short to ground in circuit No. 35. If no short is present, replace instrument cluster.
CODE 26, QUAD-DRIVER CKT, W/3T40 TRANS. (2 OF 3) On models with 3T40 transmission, QDM "A" fault status on "Scan" tester should read HIGH until 2nd gear switch is closed or brake is applied. To simulate driving in 2nd gear and change status to LOW, disconnect TCC connector, and connect test light between harness terminals "A" and "D". 3) This step determines which circuit is out of specification. DIAGNOSTIC AIDS Monitor voltage of each terminal while moving related harness connectors, including ECM harness. If fault is induced, voltage will change. This may help locate intermittent problems. If code reappears with no apparent problems, replace ECM. NOTE: Test number refers to number on diagnostic chart.
CODE 26, QUAD-DRIVER CKT, (3 OF 3) 4) This step determines if problem is circuit or component. Factory-installed ECM has an internal fuse and is unlikely to need replacement. Fig. 31: Code 26, Quad-Driver Ckt (3 of 3) Fig. 32: Code 26 Flow Chart (Part 3 of 3) CODE 27 OR 28, GEAR SWITCH CKTS, W/3T40 TRANSAXLE Gear switches are located inside transaxle. Switches are normally closed. As vehicle speed increases, hydraulic pressure applies specific gear clutches and gear switch opens. ECM uses gear switches input signals in calculations to determine control fuel delivery and TCC operation. Code 27 will set if mid gear 2nd switch indicates ground or closed switch for 12 seconds when vehicle is in 3rd gear or if mid gear 2nd switch circuit indicates an open when engine is first started. Code 28 will set if high gear 3rd switch circuit indicates ground or closed switch for 10 seconds when vehicle is in 3rd gear or if high gear 3rd circuit indicates an open when engine is first started. 1. A digital volt-ohmmeter must be used in this test. A test light will not work due to low voltage supplied by ECM. 2. Checks if circuit is grounded through switch. 3. Checks for a good, properly operating switch and checks circuit within transaxle for an improper ground. DIAGNOSTIC AIDS Check for poor connections at ECM pins. Inspect harness for incorrect routing (too close to high voltage wiring) and chafing. Monitor voltage of each terminal while moving related harness connectors. If failure is induced, voltage reading will change. NOTE: Test number refers to number on diagnostic chart. NOTE: Test numbers refer to numbers on diagnostic chart.
This all can be either a bad 02 sensor, causing the engie to remain in open loop(cold engine) operation or a bad ECT(engine coolant temp sensor), Some were called CTS Coolant temp sensor. This also would cause cold engine operation all the time. It acts like a choke for fuel injected cars. Check your email I will send full testing info.
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Saturday, September 26th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM (Merged)

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