Engine stalls at idle?

Hi
When in park engine idling when brake is applied does it stall or start to idle rough? is brake operation normal?
Find ALDL under dash Jumper from TERM A to B see diagram

paper clip works good. key on but not to run MIL will flash so flash pause flash,flash = 12 post codes
Let me know
Thanks for donate

As for codes was hoping car was not a crossover to OBDII only can read codes with TECH 1 and that would be the dealer. Likely causes MAF try cleaning with a spray MAF cleaner also Crankshaft sensor tend to fail when engine heated up located on left side crankshaft pully. Please check out this guide I think it will help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please run down this guide and report back.

It could be a few things. First, has the check engine light ever come on? Also, have you checked for vacuum leaks? Finally, has the crankshaft sensor been checked?

As far as the MAP, I believe it does have one and it could cause this, and the MAF could be an issue. Try cleaning it. They make a special electronic cleaner for them you can get at a parts store. See if it helps.

As far as the fuel pump, even though it is new, like you mentioned, the regulator could be bad. You should check it. Let me know if you need directions.

Joe

That sounds like the TCC solenoid is sticking and holding it in Overdrive. Open the hood and look down at the transmission and you should see a large plug going into it, usually round. Unplug it and try driving it again. If the problem is gone, you will have to get it to a trans shop and likely replace the TCC solenoid in the trans.

What you have is a
stuck TCC solenoid/valve
disconnect electric plug on the side on tranny and run a test or check for codes

Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Torque Converter

TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
ARTICLE BEGINNING
SERVICE INFORMATION
The purpose of this bulletin is to help technicians determine when a torque converter should be replaced. Below is a list of general guidelines to follow.
The converter should NOT be replaced if the following apply:
DTC P0742 - TCC stuck on is set. This code is almost always the result of a controls condition (i.E. Stuck TCC solenoid/valve). Experience has shown that this code rarely indicates a mechanical concern within the torque converter.
The fluid has an odor or is discolored but no evidence of metal contamination.
Fine metal particles (traces of metal flakes/gray color to fluid ) are found in the converter. This is not harmful to the torque converter.
The vehicle has been exposed to high mileage.
A small amount of wear appears on the hub where the oil pump drive gear mates to the converter (RWD only). A certain amount of such wear is normal for both the hub and oil pump gear. Neither the converter nor the front pump assembly should be replaced.
The torque converter should be replaced under any of the following conditions:
The vehicle has TCC shudder and/or no TCC apply. First complete all electrical and hydraulic diagnosis and check for proper engine operation. The converter clutch may be damaged. Also, the converter bushing and/or internal O-ring may be damaged.
Evidence of damage to the oil pump assembly, pump shaft, turbine shaft, drive sprocket support and bearing, or metal chips/debris in the converter.
Metal chips/debris are found in the converter or when flushing the cooler and the cooler lines.
External leaks in the hub weld area, lug weld or closure weld.
Converter pilot is broken, damaged, or fits poorly into the crankshaft.
The converter hub is scored or damaged.
The transmission oil is contaminated with engine coolant, engine oil or water.
If excessive end play is found after measuring the converter for proper end play (refer to Service Manual).
If metal chips/debris are found in the fluid filter, or on the magnet, and no internal parts in the unit are worn or damaged. This indicates that the material came from the converter.
The converter has an unbalanced condition that results in a vibration that cannot be corrected by following Converter Vibration Procedures.
Blue converter or dark circular ring between lugs. This condition will also require a complete cleaning of the cooler and a check for adequate flow through the cooler.
Converter bearing noise determined by noise from the bell housing area in Drive or Reverse at idle. The noise is gone in Neutral and Park.
If silicon from the viscous clutch is found in the lower pan (4T80-E ONLY).

Check to see if the vacuum hose is cracked going to brake booster it may be leaking vacuum. For the bleeding rent a power bleeder from a rent it shop to bleed brakes make sure all air is out of system. Also check other vacuum hoses for being soft/cracked or broken. The one on top of throttle body like to crack and give a vacuum leak.

Sounds like the torque converter is faulty, you can try disconnecting the torque converter solenoid, located on the transmission. It may or may not work and your fuel consumption would be high, but it would get you from point a to point b until you can have it fixed.

Try testing the throttle position and manifold absolute pressure sensors also the EGR valve

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try eliminating any vacuum leaks and cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.