Under-hood fuse block C1 connector wiring diagram needed?

Hello, so, you need the power distribution diagrams for the entire engine compartment fuse block. I do have C1 pulled up here already for you ill post
They are all pretty much the same, but is this the 1500 series 6.0? And do you need more than just C1? Do you want C2-C7, C9 as well?
I'll post the Power Distribution diagrams as well, they aren't as specific, it shows the entire under hood fuse block with all its circuits, but they are all labelled with a connector ID.

These are the Power Distribution diagrams, there 6 pages, but everything is marked Top and Bottom so you can print them out if needed and they will line up. I know how bad rodent damage can get, they love to eat the insulation on the wiring due to the chemicals in it. But let us know if you need anything else.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I can pull up the other connector pinouts for you, A1, A2, A3 etc.
What is your VIN, I can look that specific vehicle up by that, these are aftermarket diagrams from All Data as well, they don't get everything correct sometimes, but Ill check for some OEM diagrams.

Do you just need extra diagrams for exterior lighting?
The issue is there are multiple 06 Chevy Silverado 6.0 2wd. There are a couple different Vin numbers, I've been under 06 Chev Silverado 6.0L 2wd VIN N, there is also a VIN U. Most of the diagrams look exactly the same for both VINs but the OEM may differ somewhat, but I can pull up separate diagrams for each individual system.

I do see the C1 E6 brown/white wire (Traction control switch), under the OEM diagrams for the ABS/Traction control it gives 2 options for the Traction control switch, the first does come from C1 E6 Under-Hood fuse panel (brown/white wire) and then a 2nd option which the Traction control switch signals directly to the ABS module, I'll post both diagrams showing the difference. Obviously, you would have the 2nd design without the C1 E6 pin.

These first 4 diagrams (1-4) are only the Front Park Lamps, I added the OEM and aftermarket diagrams because they are misleading as you'll see.
Diagrams 5, 6, 7 are Internal Park Lamps, Left Rear Park, Right Rear Park lamps and 8 is the aftermarket diagram.
*Note on the Front Park lamp connectors C125 and C127 the (VYU) is the RPO code which is found on a RPO list somewhere on the vehicle, for different options each vehicle may or may not have. The owners manual may have the location of the RPO code in it, on cars it's usually in the trunk, so I'm not sure where it would be exactly on this truck.

Diagram 9 is Reverse Lamps, there was another option, but it looked to be Diesel.
Diagram 10 is Stop Lamps,
11 and 12 are Turn Signals, they had some listed as Chevy and GMC, so that's why its labelled as it is.
13 is the Traction Control Switch you must have, it's not coming from the Under-hood fuse panel, but the ABS module. That would explain why you are missing the C1 E6 wire.
14 is the rest of the Traction Control and ABS from the under-hood fuse panel.

And finally, 15 is a Beacon Lighting option if you have that, it was coming from C1 E11 and E4 orange wire, so I added it, hopefully these are all correct.

Okay, I'm sorry to hear about your fiancé. What are all the code numbers you are getting? We can see if there is anything in common with components that are coding, often I find that looking at all the modules that are setting codes for specific circuits and components leads to a common power feed, ground, or reference voltage that is affecting them all. So, if you have a list of every code that would help.
Also, you're having this much trouble from a rodent chewing just the C1 connector? I just want to make sure I understand fully what happened and what actually got damaged. I will pull up that VIN and use it from now on for any information we may need to look up.

So that VIN did change the vehicle ID, its listed under a "2007 Chevy Truck Silverado Classic 2500 2WD V8-6.0L".

But still post all the codes set, and what connectors are damaged besides C1 if any.

Another thing to keep in mind is pin tension in any connectors you have either unplugged or tested, loose pins can really send you down a rabbit hole while trying to diagnose intermittent issues like this. So, if you go to check pin tension on female pins, use something that is a little bit smaller than the male pin on the fuse box for example. If C1 has any loose female pins in that connector for whatever reason, they can sometimes make contact and sometimes not, depending on vibration, temperature, if the harness has been pulled on, etc. I will go over the C1 pinout again with this new VIN number and see if there are any differences now.

This is why we're having so much trouble here, your VIN comes up as a 2007, so it might be a later build date. I was just looking for your folder and I thought I had deleted it by accident, but it's labelled as a 06'. Although I don't see much difference in the C1 connector pinout yet, there is definitely a year difference.

Okay, right away I see that the Charging system diagrams are showing the Instrument Cluster "IGN 1 VOLT" feed wire comes directly from the Under-hood fuse block C1 connector. It's one of the Clusters circuit board feeds, depending on what fuse you have listed in your vehicle, it's going to be from either IGN E Fuse 10amp C1 pin F6 or SEO IGN Fuse 10amp C1 pin F5. It's a pink wire. I'll double check this with the OEM charging system diagrams. So, I think you probably have some pin fitment issues or loose wires to those pins. Maybe in a crimp connector or whatever it is you're using to connect the broken/chewed up wires with.

I've gone through all the power distribution diagrams that have the C1 connector, with pins that are related to the issues you're having. The 6th diagram has the feeds for the Airbag system, the others have to do with starting and a lot of other power feeds. I think that most of the problems might be related to the BCM losing power at some points, especially the headlamps, since the relays for the headlamps are controlled by the BCM. So, I would go through and make sure all the pins are tight in the connector. If there are still problems after the pins are all checked out, then back probing C1 when certain issues come up to see if there are power losses happening on any wires is the only way to find out what's actually being lost.
For example the headlamp relays are grounded through the BCM, so if they are not working, we can have you check at C1 pins B9 and C3 which are the headlamps High and Low beam relay control wires, so if they are still reading 12volts after turning on the headlamps, then the BCM is not grounding them, Those pins should go to 0volts when the relays are activated.
And for the Starting issue, you'll see some of the diagrams have Ignition Switch at the top and show which pins should have power coming out going to the ignition switch. But check for pin tension in C1 first and make sure your wires are correct.

I'm sorry I don't see any uploaded pictures; can you try again? I think you're still dealing with pin issues in C1 though, since there are so many power feeds to the BCM, and it controls all the lighting and many other components on these vehicles. Another thing in this case I'd be worried about is if the rodent chewed through any powers wires that happened to short out through the BCM. These BCMs fail so often, we have had so many this year it's almost unbelievable. But try to unload your pictures again if you want, I went through the diagrams and the 06 and 07 C1 connector pinout is the same, except for the different options in specific models. So at this point you would have to go after each code, and look for ones more specific to the area of the system that is more important such as Starting, and certain lighting such as Headlamps, all of them are controlled by the BCM, so if you have no headlamps you would need to see if the BCM is grounding either the Low or High beam relays to deal with that problem. These BCMs do weird things when they are missing one or more power feeds, they act like half of the BCM is working and half or a section is not. So, we would have to go through and check the 1 out of 7 connectors for power and ground that was setting a code(s). If can be very frustrating I know. But the problem would have to be within the effected connector at the fuse box, or an issue with BCM itself. If you had every connector out of the under-hood fuse box, then it's more of checking pin tension at each wire unfortunately.

I don't see anything listed as "conn id" but I would assume that means connection ID. For the grounds you mentioned, that may refer to some as "Floating Ground" which is its own circuit and returns only to the specific module that is using a sensor (for example) that its ground only goes back to the module and not the battery negative. A normal Ground will end up back at the battery negative whereas a Floating Ground will be ground internal to the module, this is done to help with interference to the sensor.
As for the codes, I've been going through them, and I see that most of them are History
codes, so that fault is not occurring right now.

And if I understand you correctly, did you swap out the entire engine wiring harness?
Because I can see that it causes a lot of issues, especially connector issues. These vehicles have a lot of problems, definitely when connectors have been pulled apart and reconnected more than a couple times.

But there are a lot of U1000 codes stored, those are communication codes for the vehicles network. I'm still going through them, but the BCM has lost communications codes for the PCM, Cluster, Class 2 Serial Data (which is the low-speed network). And these codes have to do with the "Key In Ignition circuit malfunction", "Security System Sensor power circuit high" Those type of faults will cause a no start condition. If the security system is not seeing the key in the ignition, it will not allow the vehicle to start.

We couldn't go after all these problems at once, there's just too many codes set. So, we would have to address one issue at a time, or we'll end up here back and forth for a year.
Any module that is setting a Lost Communications code, right away that code is the first to deal with in any situation. Other codes will be set for that module if it's not communicating on the network. There is just too much clutter here,
But clear all these codes out and see what comes back first. What codes are Current after these are cleared out.

I have scan tools, but I cant loan them out, I use them for mobile work that I also do here. The current scan tool youre using does not clear codes? You can try Key on, Key off 3 times in a row. That should clear the trouble codes out. Im sure you have had the battery disconnected at some point with all these repairs as well? That should clear the memory after a few minutes, there are capacitors that need to discharge in the PCM to clear any trouble codes. I see the Conn ID you mean, those are the connector colors for that component, so for example the box inside the Fuse Block- Underhood CONN ID "C1-68 GY"
is the C1 connector, 68 pins, and its Grey in color.
I fully understand how difficult diagnosing certain issues can be, especially when there are so many codes. I do this everyday and have had to deal with very difficult issues before. The codes you may see that are duplicate would be something like U1000. Every module will send out a "ping" or a "State of Health" message out on the network, I believe its about every minute or so. And when a module stops communicating this Health message will not be there for that specific module, and the other modules will set a U1000 code meaning the module setting the code is not seeing that other module's Health message. That is why you will see that code set in multiple modules. Its not a duplicate code, its that module saying it cant see the module its coding for.
So all this started with the rodent chewing through C1 connector, and that is the only wire repair you made. And it sounds like the main issue here is that some of the pins in C1 may be in the incorrect places, hopefully I have that correct. And I know that many of the C1 power feeds are all Orange wires, and that can be confusing if you have to come back to the repair at a later time. I always try to take pictures with my phone if its a repair that I think I might get confused with when putting everything back together. Ive had to learn this the hard way.
I think because so many components have been replaced on this vehicle, it can make all the faults now seem very confusing, with a list of codes that you have, it can really make your head spin. So its good to step back, and address the original issue to begin with. With C1 having 68 wires, thats a lot to deal with, but many of them are outputs, some are relay control wires, so we can go through them and make sure they are outputs to the correct locations. And I think dealing with the Starting issue first would be a good idea. That way we're only working with a certain number of wires at a time. And starting would be the biggest concern on a long drive.
Pin tension is going to be a huge factor here, many people dont really see it effecting things because connectors can snap into place and seem fine. But pin issues can cause these intermittent problems to come and go with temperature, humidity, how much the connector has been plugged back in, or the harness been moved around. We have entire kits of just connector pins that are all different sizes to check pin tension when intermittent problems act like this.
In your case, it looks like all of C1 pins should be the same size. So you'll want to find a pin thats a little bit smaller to be sure there is good contact inside that connector. I cant stress that enough.
Some of the codes setting give us some direction already, such as the Ignition, key in ignition, security system, etc. Those right away will cause starting issues.
Especially when you describe driving for a bit then stopping and it wont restart. Thats heat causing things to expand, then contract, then you have a loose connector. Sorry for my long post here, but we need to find out what is causing the restarting issue first. All the lost comms codes and ones that come with it can all be power supply issues that just cause a domino effect. And there could be power supplies going to the wrong place as well, but we'll check those.
Try clearing out the codes first.

During the next No Start condition, watch the security light and let me know if it's flashing or staying on, these security system and Ignition codes have to do with voltage levels right at the sensor that's around the ignition switch itself. You can see by the code criteria; this is probably causing some of these starting issues.