No electrical power?

This sounds like the BCM is out but to be sure lets check the fuses first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If the BCM is out you will need to have it programs by a shop should run about $130.00.

Check out the diagrams (below)

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

Check battery for condition including load test just cause it's new doesn't mean they can be bad. check fuses ign A-B-E and crank fuse underhood fuse box. try resetting anti theft after fuse check it may be that see pic this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Hello,

It sounds like you have a weak battery or a bad battery connection here are two guides that will help us fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Please run down these guides and report back.

Check the battery terminals, disconnect and clean them and retest. Check the main fuses and fusible links. Ensure ground circuits are clean and secure. this guide can help us.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

let us know.

A poor connection can result in sparking which would cause contacts to fail. That is the reason I suggested cleaning and retightening the terminals.

Make sure you have good connection at the battery cables. Make sure the cable ends are free of corrosion. Make sure the battery is not leaking acid from the positive terminal.

Follow the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box and check that connection. That is a real common cause of the symptoms you described on all car brands. Also follow the smaller negative battery wire to where it bolts to the body sheet metal and be sure that connection is tight and not rusty. That wire can also corrode away under the insulation, right by the terminal where you can't see it.

I strongly recommend using a test light for these tests. For this type of problem, that will be more accurate than a digital voltmeter.

Start by turning on the head light switch. If the problem is as you described, they should not work, but we need something substantial turned on so current is trying to flow. That's what makes the missing voltages observable.

To verify the test light is working and that we aren't overlooking something stupid, place the clip on the battery's negative cable clamp, then put the probe on the positive cable clamp. The test light had better light up here.

Now move the clip from the negative clamp to a paint-free point on the body, not on the engine. Look for a rust-free bolt head or an unpainted metal bracket. The test light must still light up. If it doesn't, that smaller wire from the cable clamp to the body has a break in it.

Next, move the probe from the positive cable clamp to the stud on the under-hood fuse box. Look for my nifty red arrow in the third diagram. This is the connection that usually causes the trouble. If this one is bad, the test light will light up when you touch the probe to the terminal on the end of the wire, but not when you move it to the stud itself.

If the test light still lights up nice and bright, leave the clip on the body, then check for voltage on the various fuses. The smaller ones will have two real small holes on top. Those are the two test points. The last diagram is the list of those fuse circuits. If you find voltage on both sides of a fuse, that circuit should be working. Since you say everything is dead, I'm expecting you to find voltage is missing by this point in the tests.

Let me know what you find.

Its unclear if your trucks starts now and dies, losing electrical power or your truck now has no electrical power. Get back to us.